What type of break-in do you think is best?

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NASCARnut

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RC Driving Style
"New school"-

Run your car at half throttle for 1 minute, when the minute is up take the temp and let it cool. If the temp was close to or below 200* lean the HSN 1/8 turn for the next run.

When the engine has cooled, restart it and go out for another 1 minute, 1/2 throttle run. Check the temp again and shoot for 200-230*. Repeat the 1 minute run/cool down procedure twice more, and readjust the HSN to keep the engine running at 215*.

After you've completed the 1 minute runs, continue with 2 or 3 2-minute 1/2 throttle/cool down cycles, and then move to 3 minute runs until you've run the engine for 35 minutes.


"Old school"-

When the engine starts, allow it to operate in short runs at the factory settings.

Next, try to run the car on the track. Run it as rich as possible but if it stalls, richen the HSN about 30 degrees. Run it until one tank of fuel has been consumed. Let it cool then close the HSN 30 degrees and run the car for another full tank.

Repeat this until 5 more tanks of fuel have been consumed during which time the throttle may be opened for brief bursts of increased power. If the engine stops at medium speeds, close the HSN 45-90 degrees.

I'm in the process of breaking in my XTM .18 and started with the "new school" way but have since gone back to the "old school way"

:cheers:
 
where did that new school technique come from i havent heard of it.
i would idle the first tank ...no driving.
then for next 4-6 drive it softly and begin to lean it out.

thats what manufacturer said in a video.
 
i would do what ever the engine manfucture says it varys per maker
 
The "new school" method he mentioned is called heat cycling and is not so new of a technique.
 
I like to run the thing rich until 1/2 throttle stalls it then run 2 tanks like that then lean 1/8 turn and then 2 more tanks, then 3 more sets of 2 then lean out for top speed then richen a bit :)
 
While I used to use a middle school aproach.. I just go with what the manufacture says since I figure they know there engine best...X
 
I use the same method as X. I figure if you buy a quality engine they spend many hours in R&D and probably know the best method of break in for their mill. The instructions for my HPI differ from my OS which differ from my Traxxas.
 
Yup, it's better to break it in according to manufacturs instructions. All are different... If you read it over a few time, and soemthing don't seem right, then do it your own way. Everyone has their own break-in techniques.
 
Break in procedures are like the worlds greatest Chocolate Chip cookie recipe. Everyone has their own way of making them, and everyone thinks theirs is the best.

Go with what makes sense to you. Heat cycling is a key ingredient to the break in procedures though. Kinda like the chocolate chips.
 
So you can break you engines in with cookies? Cool!

I always follow the manufacture's instructions. I have never let an engine idle through a tank, but that is because the instructions have never told me to do that
 
Originally posted by nitro dave


I always follow the manufacture's instructions. I have never let an engine idle through a tank, but that is because the instructions have never told me to do that



That is because at idle, the engine will not get hot enough for the metals to expand and mate properly.

The engine needs to be run at various throttle control to bring the engine up to temps, right around 190 to 210 is a good temp for breakin.

Letting it sit and idle is an old school technique, I have done it with no adverse effects but would not recommend doing it now.
 
when I broke my engine in I idel for 4 tanks with out running out of fuel then, on the 5th I would idel and let it run out of gas and on the 6th I would drive it at 1/4 -1/2 throttle for a tank and I am done!
 
For me the process is simple

Check the idle screw FIRST AND FOREMOST! Make sure when the carb linkage is closed you have the 2mm opening for idling. I personally have had MAJOR issue starting the mill initially because I trusted the manufactures settings.

Second - check the rest of the needles and make sure they are where the manufacturer says that 'stock from the factory' is. My most recent O.S. mill was not. It was set so rich that nobody would have been able to get it started. So make sure.

Third, screw in the HSN about a 1/4 turn just to get it started a couple of times and try to get it to run for about 1/4 of a tank only. This will ever so slightly loosen the piston and sleeve making the rest of your breakin process easier.

Fourth, turn the HSN back to where it was (stock) and continue with the breakin process as outlined in your manual.

Most will tell you to run a whole tank if not two tanks at the initial settings while allowing ample cooling time inbetween. Then you will carry out approx. 6 more tanks and turn in your HSN about 1/12th of a turn between each tank. So at the end of breakin your HSN is USUALLY turned in 1 complete half turn from stock.

Again, this will vary from engine to engine. However, the preliminary steps I defined prior to following the breakin process as defined by your manual are my personal preference and work VERY well for me.

Hope this helps.

Oh, and if you can (something above and beyond that I do) is check your compression with a compression gauge and take temps throughout your entire breakin so you can see where your temps will be relative to the needle settings.

Upon completion of the 7 or 8 tank breakin process you can tune for performance. This is quit simple, keep leaning the HSN until you get a performance DEGRADE. Make sure you run about a 1/4 tank after each 12th of a turn so you can see the needle settings take affect. After you reach the point of no more performance gain, make sure your temps are what you are comfortable with.
 
Thanx for all the replies! When I first read the instructions in the manual I thought it meant to lean the HSN 1/8 after every 2-3 minutes of running, and I knew that couldn't be right so after reading it again, I finally understood it. (yes, I read it 3 or 4 times)

The temps for the first few 1-2 minute runs were anywhere from 150-190. I knew that anything below 190* was too rich so I leaned it a little bit. Whenever I went to run it for a full tank, the temp was as high as 250* and I got scared and richened it up immidietly and got it back down to around 230* Every time I go to break an engine in, I get nervous because I know I'll screw up somehow. But not this time, I'm going to get it right!:doh:

Off topic, but is "spelled" supposed to be misspelled on the spell check link because none of the other words are misppeeldd.:dumb:
 
Originally posted by NASCARnut


Off topic, but is "spelled" supposed to be misspelled on the spell check link because none of the other words are misppeeldd.:dumb:



Yes it is supposed to be misspelled, a little inside joke
 
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