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What is this truck
- Thread starter Alfiejoe
- Start date
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Where are you located?
Could you post a straight down photo of the top then flip it and post another of the bottom?
Could you post a straight down photo of the top then flip it and post another of the bottom?
I've seen a lot of trucks, but nothing like that one. Is that a center diff or just a center spur without a "transmission"?
- Thread starter
- #5
Kind of reminds me of the generic tower hobbies "tower terror MT" truck.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=TOWC03**&P=PU
Can't find a good photo of it on towerhobbies anymore.
Looks a lot like it:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=875
Some things differ, but not much:
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=TOWC03**&P=PU
Can't find a good photo of it on towerhobbies anymore.
Looks a lot like it:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=875
Some things differ, but not much:
Probably not the best, pretty old and could be hard to find parts. Kind of an entry level nitro MT.
It's a roto, this is from the first pics you posted:
It is different, but not much. The engine is different, fuel tank, electronics area. But without better photo's, it's hard to say. If it's not the same, it's built nearly the same. The TVP's look the same, arms, bottom diff covers, center shaft/spur area, pipe, shock towers, etc. Could just be an older version of the same thing.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thank you for the help mate it’s very appreciated what do you think of the HPI Savage 4.6 compared to a 1/5 Yama 30cc buggy
I don't know that 1/5th specifically. I've had 4 or 5 savage's over the years, currently have 2, a flux hp and savage x. The later models are better because the transmission is a bit lower. The older 25/SS on down to the 21 had a high center with the transmission up higher, which made the dog bones wear out the center cups ridiculously fast.
I've only had one 1/5th scale, the baja 5b ss. It was cool to build and to look at, but single speed just wasn't fun for me. I actually shortened mine by 1.5" or so with an aftermarket chassis, that made it a little more fun to bash, but I had too few of places to run something that size. I got it to run in the winter, since it was a normal engine, they are easier to deal with in the cold. Then I realized 2wd is a stupid vehicle to drive in snow. Not sure why I didn't think of that before spending $1000... In total, I probalby drove it 10-15 times over the couple of years I had it. Then I sold it for $600. One of the few RC's I didn't take a total bath on. With the chassis upgrade, arms, crank case air filter, I was probably around $1200 into it. Means it cost me between $50 and $60 for every drive... live and learn.
Something with 1/5th scale is pump gas stinks and the smell lingers. Living in an apartment with an engine that ran pump gas tends to stink up the entire house for a whole week after running it. Also something I didn't think about. Nitro smells for a day or so after running, but fades pretty quick. Also, it's big and heavy, so there will be breakage and parts tend to not be that cheap compared to smaller RC's.
To have a 1/5th scale again, I'd want a 2 speed with slipper (or something to absorb drive train shock on landing) with 4wd and more than 1" of ground clearance. Even then, for where I have to run something that big, i wouldn't run it much.
So, for me personally, I'd stick with 1/8th nitro.
I've only had one 1/5th scale, the baja 5b ss. It was cool to build and to look at, but single speed just wasn't fun for me. I actually shortened mine by 1.5" or so with an aftermarket chassis, that made it a little more fun to bash, but I had too few of places to run something that size. I got it to run in the winter, since it was a normal engine, they are easier to deal with in the cold. Then I realized 2wd is a stupid vehicle to drive in snow. Not sure why I didn't think of that before spending $1000... In total, I probalby drove it 10-15 times over the couple of years I had it. Then I sold it for $600. One of the few RC's I didn't take a total bath on. With the chassis upgrade, arms, crank case air filter, I was probably around $1200 into it. Means it cost me between $50 and $60 for every drive... live and learn.
Something with 1/5th scale is pump gas stinks and the smell lingers. Living in an apartment with an engine that ran pump gas tends to stink up the entire house for a whole week after running it. Also something I didn't think about. Nitro smells for a day or so after running, but fades pretty quick. Also, it's big and heavy, so there will be breakage and parts tend to not be that cheap compared to smaller RC's.
To have a 1/5th scale again, I'd want a 2 speed with slipper (or something to absorb drive train shock on landing) with 4wd and more than 1" of ground clearance. Even then, for where I have to run something that big, i wouldn't run it much.
So, for me personally, I'd stick with 1/8th nitro.
- Thread starter
- #14
I was very torn between the Yama and the savage but hearing people’s reviews on the savage I think it does sound lole a beast of a machine I’m planning on ordering it Friday is there any mods you would say I need to do ASAP?also what did you find the best way to tune the car
Nothing really to upgrade on the savage out of the box. If it has the 4 shock big bore setup, then white springs with associated 40wt works well and if it comes with the composite pipe, upgrading that is a good idea.
The stock arms, towers, axles, transmission and all that are very solid out of the box. When I break any of that, I replace with stock.
I had RPM arms on my flux for a while, but they would flex so much that I was snapping shock ends every time I bashed. So I replaced them with stock and haven't snapped a shock end since. I have cracked a couple arms, but both times, the landing was high speed and hard on one front wheel, so kind of expected something would have to give.
I do replace the rear axle carriers/hub carriers/turnbuckle with integy HD carriers. More so to just get rid of parts that wear than anything. The turnbuckles on the rear like to pop off after they get some wear on the ball ends. I use 5mm bolts instead of pins on the lower end of the front stock axle carriers and the integy rear carriers. I hate c-clips and remove the need for them whenever I can.
The stock arms, towers, axles, transmission and all that are very solid out of the box. When I break any of that, I replace with stock.
I had RPM arms on my flux for a while, but they would flex so much that I was snapping shock ends every time I bashed. So I replaced them with stock and haven't snapped a shock end since. I have cracked a couple arms, but both times, the landing was high speed and hard on one front wheel, so kind of expected something would have to give.
I do replace the rear axle carriers/hub carriers/turnbuckle with integy HD carriers. More so to just get rid of parts that wear than anything. The turnbuckles on the rear like to pop off after they get some wear on the ball ends. I use 5mm bolts instead of pins on the lower end of the front stock axle carriers and the integy rear carriers. I hate c-clips and remove the need for them whenever I can.
