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4u2nv

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I just ordered a Wasp .18 and was wondering what else (If anything) I need to buy to drop er in. Like as far as clutch bells and all that. Is it included?? Just curious and its my 1st motor swap (on Rc's) Any tips would be appriciated. Thanks
 
What are you putting it in? I'm assuming a maxx? Since this is in general nitro, it's hard to say...

If it is a maxx and if you got this engine: Wasp With Slide

It will also depend on what engine is currently on your maxx. If you have to 2.5, then you already have the slide carb setup. If not, then your going to have to do some figuring to get it to work. Also, if you have the 2.5, your going to need this to put the wasp into your truck: Clutch Adapter

If you have the older maxx and the engine had a rotory carb vs a slide, then your going to need to do some figuring again.

I have more info if you need it. I just put the same engine into my 2.5 maxx, but I did a lot of remanufacturing to get the truck the way I wanted it. The 2.5 slide carb setup is crap. For me, it made the carb bind up no matter how I bent the throttle wire, so I moved the servo by the engine, put an OFNA buggy tank up front, mounted the receiver over the steering servo and put the battery pack ziptied to the chassis where the battery pack originally went.

I can post pics if you want. It's not pretty, but I got 2 hours of playtime out of it today and had a shiteload of fun. The only thing that happened was I lost a rear turnbuckle screw near the end of my outing.
 
Its the original Tmaxx with the .15 pro in it. The guy at tower told me its a basic drop in motor that will take less than 10 minutes. I was just wondering if it comes with everything to drop it in or if I needed the gear, clutchbell and them goodies up front. This motor was made for the .15 pros so Thats why I think you might have had some probs in the 2.5. Just a hunch. Thanks for your help! Its greatly appriciated.

Also another quick question. Can I use my stock pipe?? (For the time being anyway?) Is it recommended? Thanks
 
I think you can, but from what I've found it's best to use the pro big bore header and 1/10 HPI ringed pipe (paris?)

I know mine wasn't a drop in, but it did have a slide carb. Also, it had a short std threaded shaft which required the thing I posted above.

I attempted to use the 2.5 slide carb mechanism and it made my carb bind all the time. I didn't even get through 2 tanks before my carb started binding at 1/4 throttle. I just think it's a hokey setup is all.

I'm using a power racing products .15 pipe and header. I bored out the header some so it matches the exhaust port, and I drilled out the stinger a little.
 
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