What did you print today??

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Nice wheels, but I would love to get on your pc and play with your print settings.

Give me the gist of it. What filament are you using, and what are your settings? Speed, layers, infill, retraction, temps, etc. You have an Ender right?
That is Overture PETG, 50mm/s, .22 layer per designer rec, 240°/70° temps.

Anycubic Mega, glass bed so I print PETG on blue tape. It's an ugly print. Nozzle clogged on the next print.
 
Oh, you are printing PETG. Have you upgraded to an all metal hotend? I would if you haven't. Even just printing at 210°, after awhile the ptfe liner in the Creality hotends will shrink up and start causing under-extrusion issues. Printing at 240, my stock hotend on my CR10 lasted a couple weeks.

Also, have you tried slower print speeds? I typically don't print any higher than 40mm/sec. For stuff like wheels, I print at 30mm/sec. I can go as high as 60 and things still look ok. But they definitely look better at slower speeds.

At .22 layer height you will not be getting the proper squish on your filament path either. I never go more than 50% of my nozzle diameter in layer height. Even if the designer did design the wheels where .22 puts the layers directly on the faces of the model, it should still print fine at .2, so I would try that and 40mm/sec, after you fix the clog.
 
Oh, you are printing PETG. Have you upgraded to an all metal hotend? I would if you haven't. Even just printing at 210°, after awhile the ptfe liner in the Creality hotends will shrink up and start causing under-extrusion issues. Printing at 240, my stock hotend on my CR10 lasted a couple weeks.

Also, have you tried slower print speeds? I typically don't print any higher than 40mm/sec. For stuff like wheels, I print at 30mm/sec. I can go as high as 60 and things still look ok. But they definitely look better at slower speeds.

At .22 layer height you will not be getting the proper squish on your filament path either. I never go more than 50% of my nozzle diameter in layer height. Even if the designer did design the wheels where .22 puts the layers directly on the faces of the model, it should still print fine at .2, so I would try that and 40mm/sec, after you fix the clog.
All super good advice!! And yep even with the capricorn tubing its only a couple weeks between needing to rebuild due to tubing swell in the hot end. I even print more conservative on my speeds with PETG . 15 on first layer , 25 on walls and 35 on infill with a .4 nozzle. And I usually use the same rule of thumb on layer heights (no more than 50%nozzle diam.) . I do make exceptions for mechanically crucial parts. For example , something that I know as designed in .25 mm increments, I will run .25 mm layer height and increase the flow by 5% to compensate.
 
Oh, you are printing PETG. Have you upgraded to an all metal hotend? I would if you haven't. Even just printing at 210°, after awhile the ptfe liner in the Creality hotends will shrink up and start causing under-extrusion issues. Printing at 240, my stock hotend on my CR10 lasted a couple weeks.

Also, have you tried slower print speeds? I typically don't print any higher than 40mm/sec. For stuff like wheels, I print at 30mm/sec. I can go as high as 60 and things still look ok. But they definitely look better at slower speeds.

At .22 layer height you will not be getting the proper squish on your filament path either. I never go more than 50% of my nozzle diameter in layer height. Even if the designer did design the wheels where .22 puts the layers directly on the faces of the model, it should still print fine at .2, so I would try that and 40mm/sec, after you fix the clog.

Thank you, I forget the 50% layer rule. Looked back at my notes and that was done at 60mm/s as a speed run. 50% infill. I often sacrifice quality for speed when I'm prototyping. I knew it would look good enough for me to decide if I like it, but more importantly if it would have clearance issues with a tire on it.

The wheels I've been running for a while were done at a .16 layer with 100% infill at 30mm/s. I run fast and dirty when I'm prototyping. Final prints are done much slower.

PETG is at the upper limit of what this printer can do. I don't do much high Z axis printing so I run a bowden kit from another printer that is longer than needed. About every 48 hours of print time I pull it, cut it back, and set it.

At some point, probably next year, I will pick up a larger, direct feed printer and this will become my PLA pro workhorse. With a .3 nozzle it does some really nice stuff with the Overture PLA Pro/Plus.
 
Making a stand for the Beetle, and figured since I will hopefully be making at least 6 more of these stands, I figured I'd print up some extra letters for them.
20221201_091907.jpg

20221201_091809.jpg
 
The short answer is dice towers ,LOL.. So I printed the support free castle tower from Thingiverse. Nice model , prints support free well , but it takes a half spool of filament at at 75% scale.. And with a .8 nozzle at .25 layers it took 24 hours to print . It was over 48 hours to run on a .4 nozzle.. We dont really do D+D or RPG's so the castle tower looks cool, but something less ornate would work fine. So, I designed a spiral dice tower that prints support free, is a bit more friendly size for actual use, and doesn't take near as much filament or time to print.. Red one was printed with a .6 nozzle in under 8 hours, blue was printed with a .4 nozzle in under 12 hours. This design weighs in at 130 grams compared to the 490 of the castle tower. Works great for Monopoly and yahtzee.. Will post stls to my cults page within the next couple days..
20221203_120022.jpg
 
Last edited:
The short answer is dice towers ,LOL.. So I printed the support free castle tower from Thingiverse. Nice model , prints support free well , but it takes a half spool of filament at at 75% scale.. And with a .8 nozzle at .25 layers it took 24 hours to print . It was over 48 hours to run on a .4 nozzle.. We dont really do D+D or RPG's so the castle tower looks cool, but something less ornate would work fine. So, I designed a spiral dice tower that prints support free, is a bit more friendly size for actual use, and doesn't take near as much filament or time to print.. Red one was printed with a .6 nozzle in under 8 hours, blue was printed with a .4 nozzle in under 12 hours. Works great for Monopoly and yahtzee.. Will post stls to my cults page within the next couple days..
View attachment 156344
Thats pretty cool. I really like the castle one.
 
That Weld-On #4 stinks to high heaven but it seems to work decently. I wish it was a gel I could brush on but it works. I accidently dripped some on the red area in a couple spots so it discolored it a tad in those spots. Still turned out good I think :)

20221203_195006.jpg
 
The liquid weld on works really good, but can be tricky until you get the hang of it. If you can get ahold of a small syringe type of applicator, it works pretty well.

SYRINGE APPLICATOR
It came with a little plastic bottle that has a syringe type tip on it. Just wasn't prepared for how fast and easy it flows being such a thin liquid. Next time Ill know. I will say this...dont breathe that crap lol :)
 
It came with a little plastic bottle that has a syringe type tip on it. Just wasn't prepared for how fast and easy it flows being such a thin liquid. Next time Ill know. I will say this...dont breathe that crap lol :)
So it smells good lol?

Printed some white wheels for the TRX4. Like the way it looks. Old bumper back on in the picture. Managed to find a hit that will break it almost every time. Broke two this weekend. Printed a replacement last night.

PXL_20221204_215150024.jpg
PXL_20221204_215121896.jpg


Little project I've been working on. My mom loves nativity sets, has way too many, but I decided to add to it this year.

Lighted set that aside from the little 12v power supply will all fit into an "Altoids" container. That's my final draft. Need to do some cleanup and finish the final version this coming weekend if I don't get to it this week.
PXL_20221204_030719592.NIGHT.jpg
 
Back
Top