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What brushless set-ups for SC10?

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ShredSled

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Let's hear what you're running, what brushless set-up, maybe pros and cons, also what gear ratio and batteries?
I'm in the market and shopping around currently.
 
me too.. Right now I'am running a bushed setup and it is keeping up with a Bl setup novak 13.5 I think he said? and I have this Peak Racing Vantage Modified Single 12t Brushed Motor,and it rocks...so I think I might run the same setup he has in his blitz.. novak 13.5 sensored with a mamba esc..he also has a SMC 8000mah2s lipo
 
me too.. Right now I'am running a bushed setup and it is keeping up with a Bl setup novak 13.5 I think he said? and I have this Peak Racing Vantage Modified Single 12t Brushed Motor,and it rocks...so I think I might run the same setup he has in his blitz.. novak 13.5 sensored with a mamba esc..he also has a SMC 8000mah2s lipo

ah gotcha. So the 17.5 brushless is probably most comparable to the 17t Reedy Radon stock motor...

That's interesting, the Novak motor with sensored Mamba...

Well, now when the time comes I'm kind of looking at picking up two motors, if my wallet permits! Get a 17.5, and either a 10.5 or 13.5.

WOW an 8000mah 2S, damn, I guess I haven't been around long enough, I haven't seen one of those for the SC10! That thing must run loooooong. And I thought my 5200mah 35C 2S was big (and my charger only goes up to 5000mah :( )


Oh, and care to share what gear ratio you are running, hndaman1? Also happen to know what your buddy with the Novak 13.5 was running?
 
ah gotcha. So the 17.5 brushless is probably most comparable to the 17t Reedy Radon stock motor...

That's interesting, the Novak motor with sensored Mamba...

Well, now when the time comes I'm kind of looking at picking up two motors, if my wallet permits! Get a 17.5, and either a 10.5 or 13.5.

WOW an 8000mah 2S, damn, I guess I haven't been around long enough, I haven't seen one of those for the SC10! That thing must run loooooong. And I thought my 5200mah 35C 2S was big (and my charger only goes up to 5000mah :( )


Oh, and care to share what gear ratio you are running, hndaman1? Also happen to know what your buddy with the Novak 13.5 was running?

I'am still running stock gearing, and he has the SMC pack in his blitz, I have the turnigy 5000mah 2s pack in my sc10..He uses the Onxys<spelling? charger and had the duratrax charger, but have the turnigy on the way, and I bought another, a friend our our knows a way you can charge 2 5000mah packs @ the same time on this charger...so I'am ordering another so I have 2 this way I can charge 4 packs @ 1 time if needed..:thumbup1:

the down side it takes forever for them to come from hobbycity..:rolleyes:
 
I'am still running stock gearing, and he has the SMC pack in his blitz, I have the turnigy 5000mah 2s pack in my sc10..He uses the Onxys<spelling? charger and had the duratrax charger, but have the turnigy on the way, and I bought another, a friend our our knows a way you can charge 2 5000mah packs @ the same time on this charger...so I'am ordering another so I have 2 this way I can charge 4 packs @ 1 time if needed..:thumbup1:

the down side it takes forever for them to come from hobbycity..:rolleyes:

What "C" output is your 2S packs from turnigy?

I just ran my buddy who has the Havoc 13.5 with stock gearing who runs reg. 7.2V NIMH, (and about a dozen other guys with SC trucks of various set-ups), and it was actually laughable how easily I could outrun his brushless set-up with my complete stocker running 35C 2S lipo!!
He needs to regear and jump to lipo SO BAD!
I really didn't think my stocker with lipo would make such easy work of his brushless set-up though, esp. a 13.5. I was under the impression that most 17.5 brushless systems were about the same as the stock Reedy Radon.
 
What "C" output is your 2S packs from turnigy?

I just ran my buddy who has the Havoc 13.5 with stock gearing who runs reg. 7.2V NIMH, (and about a dozen other guys with SC trucks of various set-ups), and it was actually laughable how easily I could outrun his brushless set-up with my complete stocker running 35C 2S lipo!!
He needs to regear and jump to lipo SO BAD!
I really didn't think my stocker with lipo would make such easy work of his brushless set-up though, esp. a 13.5. I was under the impression that most 17.5 brushless systems were about the same as the stock Reedy Radon.

this is the battery pack that I run

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10098
 
Let's hear what you're running, what brushless set-up, maybe pros and cons, also what gear ratio and batteries?
I'm in the market and shopping around currently.

Running the velineon vxl-3s combo, on 23/75 gearing. zippy lipo's. haven't had it long but it's fast.
 
Well, just picked up an LRP SPX Stock Spec esc, and now have a Novak Ballistic motor on the way. It's currently a 13.5, but one of the biggest reasons I chose this motor is because they are rebuildable to run whatever turn stator you want for half the price of a new motor. It was much cheaper than one of the LRP Vector X-12's too, and seems to have a pretty good reputation.
Was going to get the Havoc Pro/Ballistic combo, but I found the SPX for such a nice price that I just jumped on it impulsively.

So, hopefully I'll be hooking that all up next weekend and see how she runs on 2S 35C. Gonna try 75:28, what you guys think? Probably geared a bit high, but I already had the gears on hand in anticipation that I'd be getting a 17.5, not a 13.5. Now I actually think the 13.5 w/ lipo might be a bit much on most of the tracks I'll be running through the winter, but I can always tone it down in the settings.
 
lipo for sure. i use a 13.5 duo2 on 2s (blitz), and a 24t pinion stock spur. lots of speed for our short straight, and the 13.5 has enough torque to gear it up a bunch for sure. the 13.5 is a good setup, on these trucks (as seen with all the 13.5 equipped sc10 trucks at the track today. Very nice trucks, and great tires.
 
What's the deal with the Castle Creations stuff? Worth the money?

I was told that the kits are completely programmable so it can basically do whatever I want it to... is this true?
 
What's the deal with the Castle Creations stuff? Worth the money?

I was told that the kits are completely programmable so it can basically do whatever I want it to... is this true?

hey sdg, recognize you from another site...

Yeah, I've had pretty good luck with CC stuff with other RC's, but personally, for these SCT's, I'd look at a Novak or similar set-up. Not always the case, but the CC stuff seems more for bashers or non-racers, since they are rated differently, typically way overkill for power, they aren't sensored so they can cog and won't deliver power as smoothly, and on top of that, if you decide to try a sanctioned race, they aren't approved most places.

But yes, they are programmable, with the purchase of a separate Castle Link, or Program card, but most other ESC's like Novak's or LRP's are programmable as well, but also sensored too! :thumbup1:
 
So what is a the ROAR spec BL setup anyways ?is it 17.5 for a stock setup? I heard that we might be running a Bl roar spec class here this coming year, and I wanted to know, I was looking @ the 17.5's and comparing them to the stock setups and wow that is a huge difference in RPMS:eek: almost 20k I'am surprised they allowed that..if that 17.5BL is a stock class setup(50k rpms) a stock reedy BR sc10 (30,000 RPM):eek:
 
hey sdg, recognize you from another site...

Yeah, I've had pretty good luck with CC stuff with other RC's, but personally, for these SCT's, I'd look at a Novak or similar set-up. Not always the case, but the CC stuff seems more for bashers or non-racers, since they are rated differently, typically way overkill for power, they aren't sensored so they can cog and won't deliver power as smoothly, and on top of that, if you decide to try a sanctioned race, they aren't approved most places.

But yes, they are programmable, with the purchase of a separate Castle Link, or Program card, but most other ESC's like Novak's or LRP's are programmable as well, but also sensored too! :thumbup1:

Thanks for the info shred. I went ahead and ordered a Sidewinder/4600 combo. I liked that the controller could also run a brushed motor. Maybe the Novak and LRP do the same? Regardless, I don't plan on racing anyway, so that shouldn't matter.

One of the things I don't understand is a few people keep saying they're too much for a short course truck. Can't this combo be programmed to put out less power?
 
Thanks for the info shred. I went ahead and ordered a Sidewinder/4600 combo. I liked that the controller could also run a brushed motor. Maybe the Novak and LRP do the same? Regardless, I don't plan on racing anyway, so that shouldn't matter.

One of the things I don't understand is a few people keep saying they're too much for a short course truck. Can't this combo be programmed to put out less power?


Hey, either way, I'm sure you're going to love your sidewinder brushless set-up, it's a huge step up from the Radon 30k.

Yes, I believe you could tune it down (not sure how much adjustability you get with the sidewinder), or you can even do that with your Transmitter as well. Typically that adjustment is done through timing tweaks I believe. Like my LRP SPX Stock Spec has some tame set-up profiles for some crazy 5.5turn motors or something like that, all they way up to VERY aggressive timing and set-up profiles for if your class has to run a slow 21.5 motor, or even 17.5 motor (yeah, hondaman, in the ROAR rules they say 17.5 brushless is their spec). I'm actually running my 13.5 with 1 mark retard timing on the can and a medium setting for timing in the ESC at 6 out of 10 I think (still experimenting with this, supposedly the lower timing on motor-can will add in some torque, keep the motor cooler, but take away top-end, but I'm still playing with gearing as well).
...anyway, I'll stop rambling on, haha...


I think in your case with the Sidewinder, even if you do find it has enough adjustability, you may run into "cogging" issues at lower speeds with a lack of torque since all the Castles except the MMpro are sensorless and won't react as smoothly or linear as a sensored set-up like a Novak or LRP or Tekin, etc.
But if you're mostly just messing around with your RC, these small hiccups in grunt power may not effect you much.

let us know how it goes for you! I know you're going to burn some tires and have to lighten your finger, haha! Will have to regear properly too, so might want to check into that. :thumbup1:
 
I'm running a EZrun 3300 with EZrun esc on turnigy 5.0 2 cell batteries. for gearing I'm running 18/87 Works great
 
...anyway, I'll stop rambling on, haha...

Don't stop the rambling for me. I like all the info!

let us know how it goes for you! I know you're going to burn some tires and have to lighten your finger, haha! Will have to regear properly too, so might want to check into that. :thumbup1:

Will do. I appreciate all the input.

I'm running a EZrun 3300 with EZrun esc on turnigy 5.0 2 cell batteries. for gearing I'm running 18/87 Works great

Maybe I should have followed your advice to begin with!

At this point I'm just playing with the car, so I think the C.C. stuff and the excessive power will be fun. I'll likely get something more tame and race-friendly down the road.


I'm curious about how the Sidewinder will work with a brushed motor.
 
I have 2 SC10's converted to brushless-one runs the Velineon VXL combo(3500kv motor) with stock gearing and 5000 mah 2s lipo and the other has an EZrun 80 amp ESC with a Losi Xcelorin 4800kv motor-stock spur gear and 17 tooth pinion gear with 5000 mah 2s lipo.The VXL gives more torque and the Xcelorin motor has more top end speed.Lots of racers here are using the EZrun combos with 35amp ESC and 3000kv motor or the EZrun 60 amp ESC and 4300kv motor-both seem to perform o.k.A 5700kv motor is a bit too much for racing but a blast for bashing if you gear it low and watch your temperatures.You can't go wrong if you choose a motor/esc combo in the 3000kv to 4600kv range.
 
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