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So the shocks from the tlr 22 sct can be used on the 22s?
What are some Great Upgrades for the Losi 22s SCT 2wd RTR to be more compedative
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Yes. Pretty much any big bore SCT shock will work on it, as long as the eye to eye length matches.
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so what exactly did the avidrc slipper clutch improve for you? how did the pinion and spur gear tooth configurations change the way the truck drives? I've PM'd you but havent heard from you, so maybe this might get to you.
RC MAN
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may i ask how fast it goes
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what dirt cover did you get that actually fits??
i should actually ask does anybody know what dirt cover could possibly fit? is the slash pretty much the same size?
I think this guy is dead or something anyway......
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Since this is for the 22s sct and upgrades...... here's what I've done but I don't race so I didn't go for a certain spec motor and I can only say that becoming a better driver and learning your machine is the real edge on being competitive.
-Hobbywing max10 SCT ESC, 3660 3200KV motor: it kills it. wheelies in grass, loose dirt, or mud. (i burned up 2 brushed motors on stock gearing)
-proline badlands mx sc tires. they are great and I'm only running them in the rear right now.
- the slash adjustable turnbuckles, but I've never had the stock "pop" off, these stock ones have that bit of removed plastic the TLR guys did to the SCT22...
-I cut some holes and slots into the body to let air flow through, now I don't send it so i dont get parachuting, but look at that proline body and cut some slots in those spots. I dont think it needs to be that wide open but then again, I'm not doing races or huge jumps.
- balance the wheels! these stock wheels wobble like crazy and i dont know how to fix that but you can stick some molding clay in there to balance them, theres an edge. plenty of guides on that.
-Shocks. I kept the stock plastic shocks. they are gen2 or 3? they are pretty damn good. they do have the bleeder caps. you could do the measurements on shock bodies and get aluminum, or you could get proline super expensive shocks which would cost as much as this damn truck, but i personally havent done it. just tune em'. I've yet to rebuild them with the 3 hole pistons as well, but i do have all the stuff to do a rebuild. LOSI's piston are suppost to be pretty crafty in the way they compress then decompress, the 3 hole is what the TLR group prefer (I think).
-shock oil and springs. the stock springs are stiff i think. I ordered a rear spring kit for the 22sct and they are pretty good. they fit the front too with enough of the shims that come with the truck. you need a shim at the bottom because the spring tries to slip over the cup. It will stay, I've been running it for awhile now and nothing has popped out. I changed the oil to 27.5 front and rear. when i did that alone it was better response on my homemade track, then I figured out springs. I think i did mistakenly buy some rear 22 shocks from the buggy, they did fit the front but the ones i got were too soft.
-The AVID RC evo slipper. Now I dont know and can't tell if it really did make this thing faster or more responsive. AVID claims its a lighter weight on the drivetrain and i was interested in playing with gearing anyway so i bought one. This is where being in tune with your machine comes in. If you have spent enough time with it, you will see or feel a difference, unfortunately when i got mine I wasn't there yet.
-The gearing. because of the motor i chose, finding a 5mm pinion in a low tooth count was hard. they just dont exist. I am currently running a 17T robinson pinion with an AVID 87T spur, thats pretty close to stock(14/87). even with 25/84 it popped wheelies in grass. I can tell you the HW motor runs REALLY cool on 17/87, so i may go up to 19 or 20 on that pinion, but i prefer the torque. Its just fun seeing it lift up that front end.
-JConcepts body stiffener. its a simple carbon fiber brace, and i had to kind of slot my body mount posts to get my body clips in. it is obviously made for the 22sct body mounts, if you dont want to drill holes or slot them, pay the money for the 22sct body mount kit? This thing DOES work. the body still has that rattle to it, but alot of it has gone away. who would have thought. LOSI should have done this already.
-Proline lid skids. These are cool and they work! as long as you put them where the body would actually contact during a rollover they save the body from scrapes. turn it upside down and mount them at those points. plus i think they look cool.
-The servo....... the spektrum servo really doesn't seem bad, until it breaks. Sure it is slow if you know what others are like. So mine started binding up and I just chose to go savox. I did this with my scx24 and have never been happier, same story on the 22s. Get a savox and call it good, its faster, stronger, metal gears, and just reliable. Its a good brand. sorry i dont have the part number, but anything you get other than the stock spektrum and that crazy expensive spektrum whats his name is talking about is going to suit you very well.
By the time you do all this, you could have bought a 4WD SCT! But I'm guessing when you, like me, bought a brushed 2WD SCT, you were thinking $180 was expensice for an R/C vehicle too. Hey now we know. You could even drop more money into the $400 RTR's too, with the way electronics are today.....(spektrum)
I dont have alot of money and all of these things I have done has taken time, plenty of runs, and breakdowns. I can only assume real people are right in this category. All that hot racing aluminum this aluminum that, we can't afford it! just buy a $400 rig then! I'm not bagging on those people that do put all the aluminum pieces in, in fact i would like to drive one around, so in a way I envy the guy with the full on aluminum chassis and chassis parts. For the backyard racer, or basher if thats what I am, I get what I can afford and I like what makes a difference.
-Hobbywing max10 SCT ESC, 3660 3200KV motor: it kills it. wheelies in grass, loose dirt, or mud. (i burned up 2 brushed motors on stock gearing)
-proline badlands mx sc tires. they are great and I'm only running them in the rear right now.
- the slash adjustable turnbuckles, but I've never had the stock "pop" off, these stock ones have that bit of removed plastic the TLR guys did to the SCT22...
-I cut some holes and slots into the body to let air flow through, now I don't send it so i dont get parachuting, but look at that proline body and cut some slots in those spots. I dont think it needs to be that wide open but then again, I'm not doing races or huge jumps.
- balance the wheels! these stock wheels wobble like crazy and i dont know how to fix that but you can stick some molding clay in there to balance them, theres an edge. plenty of guides on that.
-Shocks. I kept the stock plastic shocks. they are gen2 or 3? they are pretty damn good. they do have the bleeder caps. you could do the measurements on shock bodies and get aluminum, or you could get proline super expensive shocks which would cost as much as this damn truck, but i personally havent done it. just tune em'. I've yet to rebuild them with the 3 hole pistons as well, but i do have all the stuff to do a rebuild. LOSI's piston are suppost to be pretty crafty in the way they compress then decompress, the 3 hole is what the TLR group prefer (I think).
-shock oil and springs. the stock springs are stiff i think. I ordered a rear spring kit for the 22sct and they are pretty good. they fit the front too with enough of the shims that come with the truck. you need a shim at the bottom because the spring tries to slip over the cup. It will stay, I've been running it for awhile now and nothing has popped out. I changed the oil to 27.5 front and rear. when i did that alone it was better response on my homemade track, then I figured out springs. I think i did mistakenly buy some rear 22 shocks from the buggy, they did fit the front but the ones i got were too soft.
-The AVID RC evo slipper. Now I dont know and can't tell if it really did make this thing faster or more responsive. AVID claims its a lighter weight on the drivetrain and i was interested in playing with gearing anyway so i bought one. This is where being in tune with your machine comes in. If you have spent enough time with it, you will see or feel a difference, unfortunately when i got mine I wasn't there yet.
-The gearing. because of the motor i chose, finding a 5mm pinion in a low tooth count was hard. they just dont exist. I am currently running a 17T robinson pinion with an AVID 87T spur, thats pretty close to stock(14/87). even with 25/84 it popped wheelies in grass. I can tell you the HW motor runs REALLY cool on 17/87, so i may go up to 19 or 20 on that pinion, but i prefer the torque. Its just fun seeing it lift up that front end.
-JConcepts body stiffener. its a simple carbon fiber brace, and i had to kind of slot my body mount posts to get my body clips in. it is obviously made for the 22sct body mounts, if you dont want to drill holes or slot them, pay the money for the 22sct body mount kit? This thing DOES work. the body still has that rattle to it, but alot of it has gone away. who would have thought. LOSI should have done this already.
-Proline lid skids. These are cool and they work! as long as you put them where the body would actually contact during a rollover they save the body from scrapes. turn it upside down and mount them at those points. plus i think they look cool.
-The servo....... the spektrum servo really doesn't seem bad, until it breaks. Sure it is slow if you know what others are like. So mine started binding up and I just chose to go savox. I did this with my scx24 and have never been happier, same story on the 22s. Get a savox and call it good, its faster, stronger, metal gears, and just reliable. Its a good brand. sorry i dont have the part number, but anything you get other than the stock spektrum and that crazy expensive spektrum whats his name is talking about is going to suit you very well.
By the time you do all this, you could have bought a 4WD SCT! But I'm guessing when you, like me, bought a brushed 2WD SCT, you were thinking $180 was expensice for an R/C vehicle too. Hey now we know. You could even drop more money into the $400 RTR's too, with the way electronics are today.....(spektrum)
I dont have alot of money and all of these things I have done has taken time, plenty of runs, and breakdowns. I can only assume real people are right in this category. All that hot racing aluminum this aluminum that, we can't afford it! just buy a $400 rig then! I'm not bagging on those people that do put all the aluminum pieces in, in fact i would like to drive one around, so in a way I envy the guy with the full on aluminum chassis and chassis parts. For the backyard racer, or basher if thats what I am, I get what I can afford and I like what makes a difference.
That guy only ever made that one single post on this forum back in April and hasnt been back since so its doubtful you'll get a response from him.
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One more very important “upgrade” I did inadvertently. The dx3 with the sr315 receiver. Much better than what this truck comes with. I bought it for my yeti jr because I was going brushless on it, but after getting it and just liking the look of the tx, I decided to swap this stuff in and put the stock stuff into the yeti jr. the yeti jr came with the same tx, the stx3 or something. It’s decent, but when you see the response of the dx3 system, you realize how big of an upgrade that is.
Sunderland96
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I'm also looking for some race ready upgrades and things to do right away with this sct. I’m new to the hobby I have a 4x4 sct I’m getting into racing now I’m picking up this losi 22s to get into 2wd sct racing and tips and pointers would be appreciated.
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Well, learn how it drives, read through my post to see what I’ve done. It also depends on the track and what they let you have. I don’t race officially, I built a track in the backyard
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And that 22s probably isn’t race ready stock, plan on dumping more than what you paid for the truck in just a few things for you to compete.
It entirely depends on what class you are in. Stock, you can't do much with, and is the easiest to start out with. Whether it is a stock class, a mod class, or any other class, starting out, you really dont need to do much with it. Get used to how it drives, then, if you really want to, you can change the shocks to threaded aluminum ones, and change the fixed links for adjustable ones. Is yours the brushed or brushless version? Brushless, to run 2S, you may need to change gearing to keep it competitive. On 2S, the brushless version, which is set up for 3S, is a bit slow on a 2S battery.
For a stock class, both versions are pretty competitive right out of the box. The biggest limiting factor on them is the fixed links, which tend to pop off, and allow no caster/camber adjustment. I have both brushed and brushless versions, both of which i raced right out of the box (they are the only new trucks i have, all my other race trucks are older and discontinued, which is why i bought the two trucks in the first place), and, other than the brushless being slow on 2S, which a gear change took care of, i didnt do too bad with either truck.
If you are planning on racing one of these, brushed or brushless, a lot of the stuff you did was unnecessary. You state that you arent a racer, mainly a basher, which there is nothing wrong with, but, if you have ever raced, you would know that, unless you are in a mod class, most of the upgrades you did wouldnt be allowed. Some of the upgrades you did wouldnt even be allowed by some mod class rules. For a racer, the only parts of what you did i can agree with are the new servo, and adjustable links, which, you dont need Traxxas links, the ones from the TLR 22SCT are a direct replacement, as are most of the TLR 22SCT parts. None of my race trucks have much, if anything in the way of aluminum parts, since i have never seen a need for them.
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No I don’t race, there isn’t a place to race where I’m at. I basically upgraded as I saw fit, at the time when I bought the adjustable links, everything TLR was on back order. That’s why they call it “team discontinued” or team back order.
Stock/spec class, err, I mean the motor and battery of the month club is all about squeezing every last bit of "speed" out of your ride. Trying to keep everyone equal/on the same playing field is $$$. The whole "motor and battery of the month club" was more of a jab to earlier stock class racing, but still holds somewhat true today. Blinky mode turned on makes a person do weird things sometimes.
Just get the correct tires to start with, and go have fun. Upgrade your RC as your talent and wallet sees fit.
Just get the correct tires to start with, and go have fun. Upgrade your RC as your talent and wallet sees fit.
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