Weird Arrma Fury cutout issue.

[biggman100]

I have an Arrma Fury with an odd issue. It has a Hobbywing WP-10BL60 ESC, and Surpass Hobby 3650 3300KV motor (same combo i use in all 7 of my SCT's, and the Fury is the only one with this issue), and, after about 10-15 minutes of run time, it with just stop moving, until i shut it off and turn it back on, then it will repeat the cycle until it gets to LVC (which means i turn it off and back on at least 3 times before LVC). The ESC is only 4 months old, and was previously in a DHK Hunter, as was the motor, and i never had that issue when that motor/ESC was in the Hunter. The Fury has an MIP HPI Blitz ball diff, that a racer friend helped me set up, so i dont think the diff has anything to do with it. I have that same diff in my Team C TS2/Racers Edge Pro 2, set up the same way, and that never acts like this. Motor temps never go above 150 degrees Fahrenheit, and ESC never goes above 130, no matter how hard i run it. It has a 57/14 32P spur/Pinion combo, and is only ever run on a 2S Gen's Ace or ZEE 5000-5200 MAH battery, which, in other trucks, doesn't have this issue, so, what is it i am missing? I have tried different slipper adjustments, loosening and tightening the diff, different pinions, and it is always the same. The radio is a FlySky GT2B, but even swapping to a DumboRC or Spektrum radio, is still does it. I have 5 of my trucks on the FS, and none of the others do this. I recently went and changed all the bearings to rubber shielded, using a Jim's bearings kit, and that didnt change anything.

 

[Greywolf74]

Swap in an ESC thats a known working one and see if you have the same issue.

if so then swap in a known good working LiPo and see fi you still have the same issue.

if so then swap in a known working motor and see if you still have the same issue.

Its going to be a process of elimination. If none of those things fix it then its something with that particular kit. My guess is its the ESC so Id personally start there first

 

[biggman100]

Swap in an ESC thats a known working one and see if you have the same issue.

if so then swap in a known good working LiPo and see fi you still have the same issue.

if so then swap in a known working motor and see if you still have the same issue.

Its going to be a process of elimination. If none of those things fix it then its something with that particular kit. My guess is its the ESC so Id personally start there first

I not only swapped the ESC for a brand new one, as well as one out of another truck, as well as put the ESC from the Fury into a BMW on road car i built, a DHK Hunter, and an IMX Samurai, and it didnt act up once in any of the other vehicles. With the new one, and the one i took out of my Arrma Granite, the Fury still did the same thing.

The Lipo's i use, 2 ZEEE 5200 MAH 2S, and 4 Gen's Ace 5000 MAH 2S, i use in all my trucks, and none of the others have this issue.

The motor that is currently in the Fury started out in a Redcat Blackout, then was in my Arrma Granite, my BMW road car, my IMX samurai, and my Team C TS2/Racers Edge Pro2 hybrid. I never once had an issue with it in any of those vehicles, even when i ran the BMW and the Team C on 3S. No matter what ESC/Motor/Radio/Servo i use in the Fury, that truck always seems to have this issue, but none of the others do. I have been swapping parts and making adjustments on the Fury for weeks now, and always the same result. I even tried a Castle 3800KV 3660, from a Castle Sidewinder SCT kit, in the Fury and it still would cut out like that. Thats why I'm so lost on this. Something in the Fury causes this, but, for the life of me, i can't figure out what is doing it. I even once thought it was the servo, so, as much of a pain the servo is to replace, i have tried a Savox, a cheap eBay metal geared 20 and 25KG, and an older Spektrum, and nothing changed.

 

[STONER RC]

I not only swapped the ESC for a brand new one, as well as one out of another truck, as well as put the ESC from the Fury into a BMW on road car i built, a DHK Hunter, and an IMX Samurai, and it didnt act up once in any of the other vehicles. With the new one, and the one i took out of my Arrma Granite, the Fury still did the same thing.

The Lipo's i use, 2 ZEEE 5200 MAH 2S, and 4 Gen's Ace 5000 MAH 2S, i use in all my trucks, and none of the others have this issue.

The motor that is currently in the Fury started out in a Redcat Blackout, then was in my Arrma Granite, my BMW road car, my IMX samurai, and my Team C TS2/Racers Edge Pro2 hybrid. I never once had an issue with it in any of those vehicles, even when i ran the BMW and the Team C on 3S. No matter what ESC/Motor/Radio/Servo i use in the Fury, that truck always seems to have this issue, but none of the others do. I have been swapping parts and making adjustments on the Fury for weeks now, and always the same result. I even tried a Castle 3800KV 3660, from a Castle Sidewinder SCT kit, in the Fury and it still would cut out like that. Thats why I'm so lost on this. Something in the Fury causes this, but, for the life of me, i can't figure out what is doing it. I even once thought it was the servo, so, as much of a pain the servo is to replace, i have tried a Savox, a cheap eBay metal geared 20 and 25KG, and an older Spektrum, and nothing changed.

? What's the crating on those lipos. You might not have enough power. For that kit and the esc thinks it's hitting LVC. But it's not... does it happen when your getting on the throttle? The 5200mah and 2s doesn't mean anything but how long you can drive for really. The C rating is how fast the lipo can dump its power when You go full throttle. You said the lilo but not the C rating. The higher the rating the more power it can dump in theory.

 

[Greywolf74]

Yeah if you already tried switching all those electronics out after it started having that issue and it continues to happen then the Fury is just pulling more of a load on the lipo causing the voltage to momentarily dip low enough to trigger lvc as Stoner said. Whether thats just cuz its bigger and weighs more or maybe theres something producing more drag in the drive line somewhere causing the issue. I can't think of anything else that would cause that.

Are any of the alternate ESCs youve put in it to test with rated for more power than the one thats currently in it or are they all about the same spec-wise? If theyre all roughly the same specs then you may just need a more beefy ESC

 

[STONER RC]

How do you have the programming set up on the esc. I just downloaded the manual and depending on the LVC set up that you pick/program. It only takes 2 seconds of the power to drop for it to shut down..as the LVC kicks in..so you might need bigger lipos with higher c rating

Yeah if you already tried switching all those electronics out after it started having that issue and it continues to happen then the Fury is just pulling more of a load on the lipo causing the voltage to momentarily dip low enough to trigger lvc as Stoner said. Whether thats just cuz its bigger and weighs more or maybe theres something producing more drag in the drive line somewhere causing the issue. I can't think of anything else that would cause that.

Are any of the alternate ESCs youve put in it to test with rated for more power than the one thats currently in it or are they all about the same spec-wise? If theyre all roughly the same specs then you may just need a more beefy ESC

It depends on his esc programming.. and the LVC setting. And like you said if the other RCs are the same. And are different compared to the furry then the set up might not work in the furry. The esc has 12 different brake settings so that also could be the issue. As he's driven with the brakes on threw the esc and just draining the battery

 

[biggman100]

? What's the crating on those lipos. You might not have enough power. For that kit and the esc thinks it's hitting LVC. But it's not... does it happen when your getting on the throttle? The 5200mah and 2s doesn't mean anything but how long you can drive for really. The C rating is how fast the lipo can dump its power when You go full throttle. You said the lilo but not the C rating. The higher the rating the more power it can dump in theory.

How do you have the programming set up on the esc. I just downloaded the manual and depending on the LVC set up that you pick/program. It only takes 2 seconds of the power to drop for it to shut down..as the LVC kicks in..so you might need bigger lipos with higher c rating

It depends on his esc programming.. and the LVC setting. And like you said if the other RCs are the same. And are different compared to the furry then the set up might not work in the furry. The esc has 12 different brake settings so that also could be the issue. As he's driven with the brakes on threw the esc and just draining the battery

The issue is that, using the same battery, and same settings in my two 4WD trucks, they never do this, and they are both heavier than the Fury, which is a light 2WD. The batteries i use are 5000 MAH 50C Gen's Ace, and ZEEE 5200 MAH 70C. The truck is a basic, rear motor 2WD that is pretty light. I took the electronics (ESC/Motor/radio/receiver) and put them into a DHK Hobby Hunter, which is 4WD, and noticeably heavier, and that truck ran over 30 minutes on one of my two Zeee batteries with no issues, so i am pretty sure the issue is something in the Fury's drivetrain, i just can't firgure out exactly what though. I have the punch on high, drag brake at 10%, LVC at 3.2V, and braking at 75%, which is the same setting i use on all my SCT's, which all use the same ESC, and the Fury is the only one that does this. I actually buy the ESC (HobbyWing WP-10bl60) in groups of 4 or 5, since it is the only one i use in anything i have. I even have the exact same Motor/ESC in my custom DHK Hobby Wolf 2 buggy, which is 4WD, and i never have any issues with it cutting out or acting up.

 

[Greywolf74]

How do you have the programming set up on the esc. I just downloaded the manual and depending on the LVC set up that you pick/program. It only takes 2 seconds of the power to drop for it to shut down..as the LVC kicks in..so you might need bigger lipos with higher c rating

It depends on his esc programming.. and the LVC setting. And like you said if the other RCs are the same. And are different compared to the furry then the set up might not work in the furry. The esc has 12 different brake settings so that also could be the issue. As he's driven with the brakes on threw the esc and just draining the battery

Yeah it could definitely be an issue of needing higher C LiPos as well. Well not now as hes using 50C packs but I guess my post was more "in addition to" the possibilities in your post.

The issue is that, using the same battery, and same settings in my two 4WD trucks, they never do this, and they are both heavier than the Fury, which is a light 2WD. The batteries i use are 5000 MAH 50C Gen's Ace, and ZEEE 5200 MAH 70C. The truck is a basic, rear motor 2WD that is pretty light. I took the electronics (ESC/Motor/radio/receiver) and put them into a DHK Hobby Hunter, which is 4WD, and noticeably heavier, and that truck ran over 30 minutes on one of my two Zeee batteries with no issues, so i am pretty sure the issue is something in the Fury's drivetrain, i just can't firgure out exactly what though. I have the punch on high, drag brake at 10%, LVC at 3.2V, and braking at 75%, which is the same setting i use on all my SCT's, which all use the same ESC, and the Fury is the only one that does this. I actually buy the ESC (HobbyWing WP-10bl60) in groups of 4 or 5, since it is the only one i use in anything i have. I even have the exact same Motor/ESC in my custom DHK Hobby Wolf 2 buggy, which is 4WD, and i never have any issues with it cutting out or acting up.

Man, IDK thats a tough one. If its only 2wd drive then it wont be to hard to tear down the transmission and check all the gears and bearings as well as all the wheel bearings. If you dont find anything there then Id say its cursed and you should give it away!

 

[STONER RC]

The issue is that, using the same battery, and same settings in my two 4WD trucks, they never do this, and they are both heavier than the Fury, which is a light 2WD. The batteries i use are 5000 MAH 50C Gen's Ace, and ZEEE 5200 MAH 70C. The truck is a basic, rear motor 2WD that is pretty light. I took the electronics (ESC/Motor/radio/receiver) and put them into a DHK Hobby Hunter, which is 4WD, and noticeably heavier, and that truck ran over 30 minutes on one of my two Zeee batteries with no issues, so i am pretty sure the issue is something in the Fury's drivetrain, i just can't firgure out exactly what though. I have the punch on high, drag brake at 10%, LVC at 3.2V, and braking at 75%, which is the same setting i use on all my SCT's, which all use the same ESC, and the Fury is the only one that does this. I actually buy the ESC (HobbyWing WP-10bl60) in groups of 4 or 5, since it is the only one i use in anything i have. I even have the exact same Motor/ESC in my custom DHK Hobby Wolf 2 buggy, which is 4WD, and i never have any issues with it cutting out or acting up.

Ok did you check all the bearings in the furry? Well that also might be the issue it's 2wd and not 4wd

Yeah it could definitely be an issue of needing higher C LiPos as well. Well not now as hes using 50C packs but I guess my post was more "in addition to" the possibilities in your post.


Man, IDK thats a tough one. If its only 2wd drive then it wont be to hard to tear down the transmission and check all the gears and bearings as well as all the wheel bearings. If you dont find anything there then Id say its cursed and you should give it away!

you beat me too it

 

[biggman100]

Yeah it could definitely be an issue of needing higher C LiPos as well. Well not now as hes using 50C packs but I guess my post was more "in addition to" the possibilities in your post.


Man, IDK thats a tough one. If its only 2wd drive then it wont be to hard to tear down the transmission and check all the gears and bearings as well as all the wheel bearings. If you dont find anything there then Id say its cursed and you should give it away!

Ok did you check all the bearings in the furry? Well that also might be the issue it's 2wd and not 4wd

you beat me too it

The rear diff is a recently built MIP HPI Blitz ball diff, which is the same diff i use in my Racers Edge Pro2, and Team C TS2 (yes, i know, they are the same truck, just different stickers), and the bearings are a rubber shielded set that i picked up from either Jim's or Fast Eddy's less than 3 months ago, and it did it before i swapped bearings. In the Team C i have the diff set 1/2 turn from full lock, and, since the Pro2 is what i call my "experiment" truck, that diff i have the screw set as tight as it will go without breaking, and neither of those trucks do it. I have a friend who is a long time racer who has looked at my Fury multiple times, since he is better with ball diffs than i am, and even he can't figure it out.

This truck, out of all the 2WD's i have, is, my ultimate favorite, so i refuse to give up on it, or get rid of it. I still wonder if, oddly, it isnt somehow servo related, since i had another truck do something similar a few years ago. I do have a gyro on it, but, even disconnecting the gyro it still does it. Right now it has an older Spektrum servo in it, but it did it with even a metal geared eBay 20KG servo, and a Savox servo, which is why it is driving me nuts.

 

[STONER RC]

Have you changed your gearing?
It almost now sounds like over heating
You said it cuts out and 3mins later will turn back on? That 2wd truck stock comes with a 3600kv motor. Your running a 3300kv motor.. did you change the gearing like your spur or pinon?

 

[biggman100]

Have you changed your gearing?

Multiple times over the last year. I have had, at one point or another, all 4 of the available spurs in it, a 54T 32P, a 57T 32P, a 81T 48DP, and the original 87T 48DP spur, and used multiple pinions, from 12T, to 19T, depending on the spur, which is currently a 14/57 32P combo, and it does it no matter what spur/pinion combo is in it. I have also tried every slipper setting from completely locked, to currently 2 1/2 turns out from the factory setting, with no change. The spur/pinion changes were to experiment with different motor/ESC combos, while keeping it from just breaking the tires loose, which ultimately destroyed 3 rear metal diffs, and since they arent available anymore, resulted in the MIP diff swap. I just had a thought though. I wonder if the rear diff isnt shimmed right, even though it seems like it is, and is maybe causing it. I will have to check that later.
I should probably mention this has been ongoing for over a year, and nothing i try or do to it seems to fix this issue, but, that it isnt consistent. Sometimes, depending on the ESC/Motor/Spur/Pinion that is in it, and usually only when it is running at slower top speeds, it wont always do it, but anytime i try to get it at least close to the original stock speed, it does this.

Have you changed your gearing?
It almost now sounds like over heating
You said it cuts out and 3mins later will turn back on? That 2wd truck stock comes with a 3600kv motor. Your running a 3300kv motor.. did you change the gearing like your spur or pinon?

No, it will cut off, and even 10 seconds later, as long as i turn off the ESC, and immediately turn it back on, it works fine until the next time it cuts out. My truck is the first gen Mega truck, not the later BLX version, and came stock with a brushed motor, not the 3600KV from the BLX. It currently has a mix of stock Mega parts, and later BLX parts. Basically i use what parts i can find to keep it running, hence the MIP ball diff, but every other part on it is stock Mega or BLX Fury parts.

 

[Greywolf74]

I've got nothin' man. I'll post again if I think of anything new

 

[biggman100]

I've got nothin' man. I'll post again if I think of anything new

I wonder if it isnt the motor overheating, even though it never reads above 150 Fahrenheit, since it never did this in either of my touring cars, which, even though they are 4wd, are lighter than the Fury, and, even though i did have it in my 4WD DHK Hunter, i only ran that through one battery with that motor before i went back to a 3800KV in the Hunter. I got to thinking about what my IMX Samurai does, and why it does it. That truck currently has a Castle 3800KV sidewinder motor in it, that i have had almost 6 years, that, when it is over 85 out, will cause the Samurai to do something similar, except, when the Samurai cuts out, wont work again until the motor cools down.

 

[Greywolf74]

If it was the motor overheating I would think it would have to cool off before restart liek the other one tho.

 

[biggman100]

If it was the motor overheating I would think it would have to cool off before restart liek the other one tho.

Thats why i always figured it wasn't a motor issue, but, it is one of the cheap Surpass Hobby motors, so who knows.

 

[Scotski]

A suggestion is to try a new battery. Lipos should maintain their voltage but as they age they weaken. I had 2 aged 80c 4s batteries that would drain down below LVC on hard throttle because of the 150a esc I was running. It pulls 750a bursts. That is hard on batteries. I have spent thousands because I failed at Lipo...

You may also have an overcurrent/overheat issue that is causing your esc to shut down.This could happen if your drive train is binding or weak battery. New battery might help but won't do much but cook them if the drive train is binding.

Shut down causes can be:
ESC circuitry or ESC capacitors
Receiver can fail. Circuit board with power to it.
Motor brushes or circuitry in brushless, windings
Weak or failing battery

Root causes differ...
How are battery temps? They should be lower than the motor by a bit. I don't let those get over 120 but shouldn't be much more than 100 for best results. They are not as resilient as the motor. High battery temps mean heavy load regardless of the cause. ESCs don't like heat either. Thermal cut out can happen and disappear quickly if loaded up on a surge.
There are just so many cause scenarios...

 

[STONER RC]

Thats why i always figured it wasn't a motor issue, but, it is one of the cheap Surpass Hobby motors, so who knows.

I personally think it's your esc at 60a.or like you said the cheap motor.. personally I wouldn't go cheap on my electronics/motor on any of my rigs.. castle or hobbywing nothing else..there's better one then those two. But I'm not a racer. So no real need to go super crazy with them..I would get a higher esc 80a or higher. To start with and try that..your gearing could be causing alot of drag causing lots of draw. The spec for that esc say off road less then 4000kv. Which you have but not by much..so depending on how hard you drive the esc probably can't Handel that motor..

 

[biggman100]

A suggestion is to try a new battery. Lipos should maintain their voltage but as they age they weaken. I had 2 aged 80c 4s batteries that would drain down below LVC on hard throttle because of the 150a esc I was running. It pulls 750a bursts. That is hard on batteries. I have spent thousands because I failed at Lipo...

You may also have an overcurrent/overheat issue that is causing your esc to shut down.This could happen if your drive train is binding or weak battery. New battery might help but won't do much but cook them if the drive train is binding.

Shut down causes can be:
ESC circuitry or ESC capacitors
Receiver can fail. Circuit board with power to it.
Motor brushes or circuitry in brushless, windings
Weak or failing battery

Root causes differ...
How are battery temps? They should be lower than the motor by a bit. I don't let those get over 120 but shouldn't be much more than 100 for best results. They are not as resilient as the motor. High battery temps mean heavy load regardless of the cause. ESCs don't like heat either. Thermal cut out can happen and disappear quickly if loaded up on a surge.
There are just so many cause scenarios...

It happens whether i am using my older Gen's Ace, or my 3 month old Zeee, and, on a heavier 4wd with the same ESC, and a cheap 3800KV motor, i never have this issue. I only have 4 of the Gen's Ace, and two Zeee batteries, so they get used quite often in all my vehicles, and the Fury is the only one that has that constant issue.

I personally think it's your esc at 60a.or like you said the cheap motor.. personally I wouldn't go cheap on my electronics/motor on any of my rigs.. castle or hobbywing nothing else..there's better one then those two. But I'm not a racer. So no real need to go super crazy with them..I would get a higher esc 80a or higher. To start with and try that..your gearing could be causing alot of drag causing lots of draw. The spec for that esc say off road less then 4000kv. Which you have but not by much..so depending on how hard you drive the esc probably can't Handel that motor..

I dont think its the ESC, because i have swapped it to several different vehicles, from a 4WD touring car, to a 4WD SCT with a 3800KV motor, and it never did it on those, only on the Fury. As for the Fury, that motor is a 3650/3300KV, and in the few vehicles i tried that motor in, it never did it then, but two of those vehicles were lightweight 4WD touring cars. The only 4WD i put that combo in was a DHK 4WD SCT, and then i only ran it once before i put it back in the Fury. All of my vehicles have either Surpass Hobby or GoolRC motors, except for one, and i never have issues with any of the other vehicles using those motors.

 

[STONER RC]

It happens whether i am using my older Gen's Ace, or my 3 month old Zeee, and, on a heavier 4wd with the same ESC, and a cheap 3800KV motor, i never have this issue. I only have 4 of the Gen's Ace, and two Zeee batteries, so they get used quite often in all my vehicles, and the Fury is the only one that has that constant issue.


I dont think its the ESC, because i have swapped it to several different vehicles, from a 4WD touring car, to a 4WD SCT with a 3800KV motor, and it never did it on those, only on the Fury. As for the Fury, that motor is a 3650/3300KV, and in the few vehicles i tried that motor in, it never did it then, but two of those vehicles were lightweight 4WD touring cars. The only 4WD i put that combo in was a DHK 4WD SCT, and then i only ran it once before i put it back in the Fury. All of my vehicles have either Surpass Hobby or GoolRC motors, except for one, and i never have issues with any of the other vehicles using those motors.

Ok but all motor and esc don't work for all RCs.. sorry I will stop giving suggestions. Because a on road set won't be the set up you need for off road more strain o. The esc and motor. With the dirt and sand and other resistance on drivetrain. Then driven on the road...let us know how you make out