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weights in tires

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After years of trying different weights and talking to other crawlers including some of the top shafty drivers I have come to find the if you are using a light plastic wheel that 5-8oz in the front wheels and 0oz in the rear works well, the reason being is that if you put a bunch of weight in the rear there are a couple of negative effects, 1. In a verticle climb the weight of the rig is transferred to the rear wheels and extra weight only causes them to want to dig in more and flip your rig over, it is better to keep it light so the front is doing more work essentially pulling the rig up the climb rather then pushing it. 2. Having a lighter rear axle also makes it easier to get the rear of the rig to pop up over ledges instead of acting like a anchor that you are trying to drag up over the ledge, also keeping the rig on the lighter side is much easier on the drive train.
 
I may try removing the weight from my rear wheels and see how it performs, or at least reducing the weight. It's not like I compete with it, or ever really will, but I do enjoy crawling down by the light house, so if it helps any I will be happy. Both weighted was definitely better than no weight though.
 
I may try removing the weight from my rear wheels and see how it performs, or at least reducing the weight. It's not like I compete with it, or ever really will, but I do enjoy crawling down by the light house, so if it helps any I will be happy. Both weighted was definitely better than no weight though.

Yeah no doubt, weight is important especially on a shafty with the up high wieght of the trans/motor. Going off of what you crawl at the light house, Id say you could go no weight in the back and maybe lose an oz or so up front and see how you like that.


So much of it though isnt weight but more anti squat setup, upper link placement can in some cases let you lose alot of weight and still climb steeper.

Damn, I had a HUGE thing written but high lighted it on accident and hit a key lol. Oh well.
 
So re-type it, I'd like to read it :D

X2 the more info the better.

Another thing that helps a lot besides running less weight in the rear is also going to a under-drive gear set in the rear axle of the AX10, it helps increase the pull instead of push effect that much more and reduces torque twist even more, and usually will give you a tighter turning radius.
 
opposite of "overdrive" ?? Basically gearing lower? I'm no crawler guy but I think the concept is akin to how a racecar will turn better in a lower gear than in a higher gear even if turning at the same arc and speed.
 
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Yeah it keeps the rear tires spinning slower than the front at all time so the front is always pulling more, this way you can creep up steep stuff without the rear over powering you. Same thing on my setup with dual esc's on a 4pk, I can change the speed of the rear motor with my thumb from 0-120, usually run it about 80 with the front on 120.
 
What do you mean by an under drive gear set?

Here ya go Joe, Unless you are running a 55t motor I would stick with the underdrive gears, running both would be a little to extreme of a difference between the 2 axles IMHO, I run the underdrive in the rear with the stock gear ratio heavy duty gears in the front.

Optional Ratio Gear Sets
ax30401_36-14gear_med.jpg

AX30401 - 36/14 Gear Set
ax30402_43-13gear_med.jpg

AX30402 - 43/13 Gear Set
Optional Ratio Gear Sets


  • Use the gears in different combinations front and rear to reduce torque twist in the rear and overdrive the front axle to help pull you through climbs easier
  • The heavy duty gear set offers improved gear mesh reducing slop in the drive train.
  • Spiral cut gears offer increased gear tooth contact and run quieter.
  • New gear ratios offer a low gear and high gear range
  • The lower gear range set reduces torque twist (43/13)
  • The higher gear range offers higher top speed (36/14)
  • Hardened steel for increased strength and additional weight in the axle
  • One set per axle required
  • Laser etched markings
Part numbers and EAN Codes

Part #
EAN
Description
List
AX30401 877493006860 Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 36T/14T $ 30.00
AX30402​
877493006891​
Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 43T/13T

$ 30.00

This the set I run up front

AX10 SCORPION HEAVY DUTY GEAR SET


AX30395_hd_gear_med.jpg

Improve the performance of your AX10 Scorpion kit with the new heavy duty gear set. The heavy duty gear set offers you improved gear mesh reducing slop in the drive train. In addition it helps add weight low down which helps keep the center of gravity low and on the rocks where you want it. Made from high grade steel and hardened for increased strength.
Includes everything you need to install it into your kit.
Features

  • Improved gear mesh reduces drive train slop
  • Hardened steel for increased strength and additional weight in the axle
  • One set per axle required
Part numbers and EAN Codes

Part #
EAN
Description
List
AX30395​
877493004071​
Heavy Duty Bevel Gear - 38T
$ 30.00
 
I run the HD fronts and 43/13 rear its an awesome difference for sure, well worth it
 
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Curtis, I am running a 55 turn motor, so I guess these gear sets wouldn't be a good idea unless I changed out my motor too? What motor are you running?
 
Curtis, I am running a 55 turn motor, so I guess these gear sets wouldn't be a good idea unless I changed out my motor too? What motor are you running?

Joe I run a 35t motor on a 3s lipo so that I have lots of wheel speed and still have great low speed control as well, if you plan on sticking with the 55t motor you could do the overdrive gears in the front axle and the heavy duty stock gear ratio in the rear, personally I'd go with a 35t Integy motor and the under-drive gears in the rear because I don't want to give up the gearing in the front axle and take a chance of not having enough torque.
 
Joe I run a 35t motor on a 3s lipo so that I have lots of wheel speed and still have great low speed control as well, if you plan on sticking with the 55t motor you could do the overdrive gears in the front axle and the heavy duty stock gear ratio in the rear, personally I'd go with a 35t Integy motor and the under-drive gears in the rear because I don't want to give up the gearing in the front axle and take a chance of not having enough torque.

Thanks for the info Curtis. Like I said, most likely I'll never compete, but I would like to make it handle as good as possible anyway. I am running mine on a 2s lipo with a Novak 55 turn motor and a sidewinder esc. Think I may start by trying some different weight combos first, especially since that's free, lol. Then start tweaking the gearing. Thanks again for the advice.
 
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