Build Thread Want to build an rc using cison v8

[Grim]

So i recently ordered the new cison v8 and am wondering what everyones thoughts are about it? Yes i know its expensive so i dont need to hear about the price tag, thats besides the point of getting it. I'm wondering how its durability and practicality is when it cpmes to its endurance and possible uses in an actual rc build? I just ordered one last week so I'm anxious to get it put together. The main thing would be having it as a for show or to have to fire up whenever i feel like hearing that mini v8 rumble, but i wouldnt mind having an actual rc running it. Any thoughts, recomendations, or experiences would be welcome and appretiated!



I also have a 32cc 4 cylinder inline 4 stroke but that i cpuld never get running, but i am close to it actually now, but last attempt i snapped the spark plug so I'm waiting on its replacement before i can work on it again. I guess it has rubber o rings which I'm guessing may be the issue besides the timing but as far as timing I'm getting that dialed in. Got a new distributor and now its showing a little more life than it didnt any previous fiddlings i did with it.

 

[Grim]

Any recommendations on a 1/6 scale tube frame for a gas powered chassis? I need to source some or find out if I'm better off just building one from scratch

 

[Greywolf74]

you're out of my wheelhouse with that. I just stick to your typical nitro engines. It will be cool to see it built and whatever you end up sticking it in eventually. Keep us posted!

 

[Grim]

Yeah very true, i dont see this being something to outperform any of the more refined motors, this seems a just for show one. I also have a toyan fsl200. I know they pulled the toyan v8 cus of issues. And from a few sources I've found that the cison v8 has been having piston ring issues not making a good seal and getting water in the pistons, so people have been having to buy flourine piston rings which is a bummer cus i really liked that they used metal ones. Hopefully I'm lucky and get on that they fit properly

 

[Grim]

It has arrived

 

[WickedFog]

Can't wait to see what you do with it.

 

[Grim]

Update

Update just after update

 

[332_RC]

That's awesome!!!

 

[WickedFog]

What did you do about the cracked ring? And is that really a burr on that edge of it?

 

[Grim]

No the crack is the main issue. Rest is just from me having wood glue on my hands when handling it after just speaking with customer service and them requesting photos. I shoulda washed my hands. Yeah i woulda flipped if they were burrs

 

[WickedFog]

No the crack is the main issue. Rest is just from me having wood glue on my hands when handling it after just speaking with customer service and them requesting photos. I shoulda washed my hands. Yeah i woulda flipped if they were burrs

So are they sending you a new ring? And did they say anything about the ring gaps being so different?

 

[Grim]

No but they put up rings on site for sale. Its broken due to my own doing so i dont expect them to send on their tab. I'm an honest person when it comes to things

So are they sending you a new ring? And did they say anything about the ring gaps being so different?

As far as the gaps they never answered that question. I should request again. I did request for them to add about another mm of length to the rocker arm axle that hold the rocker arm assembly together because with the current length, with the end caps on, the rocker arm mounts dont line up to screw them in and them be propper distance. If i put the end cap on as far as i can off the edge to allow more to be on the opposite end for the other end to go on, theres questionable left that leaves both ends dangerously close, if even able, to mount secure enough to garuntee they wont fall off. I have to source one because i can't get both ends to stay on at same time and the real only thing holding them on right now is a generous amount of thread locker and thats not a permanent fix.

 

[johnnydmd]

I just am now seeing this thread.

I think with these engines, and how tiny the machining is, there's bound to be minor tolerance issues. I noticed JohnnyQ90's video some things he had went on more easily than mine, and some of mine were easier than others on his. Mine is about 80% done, the only real issue I have had is that one of my lifters was sticking. Eventually traced it to the machining on one of the holes in the brass guide plates. I wound up having to very lightly work on the hole with a dremel to get the lifter to stop sticking. Didn't feel good about doing that, but oh well, I think it's just part of it. I really hate the two-piece design of the lifters too, that seems like a cheap way to cut corners. They should be one solid machined part.

 

[johnnydmd]

2.5 months later and after finishing my engine, and testing, as well as seeing other people's experiences, there's a lot to digest.

The ring gap issue, looking at the photo, I am wondering if the thing was stuck in the piston. The engine in this thread is from the first batch, and it seems that the first batch had this issue with the oil ring getting stuck. I didn't encounter that myself, mine all floated freely. I do think they fixed the rocker arm issue, and they did fix the o-ring issue in the piston sleeves using the flourine ones. They also addressed the gears in both water and oil pumps.

One issue, that I'm not sure I have or not, is some reported that the pushrods were scoring the guide holes in the head slightly. I'll figure that out when I replace my head gaskets with copper ones once they release them to the public. The easiest solution is to cut new pushrods that are 2mm longer which is easy enough. That changes the angle just enough to keep them off the edge of the guide hole.

On the Cison FB group, I uploaded a revised manual, since a lot was either poorly worded or left out. One big mistake I'm seeing is that after changing the oil, people are overfilling it, not accounting for how much oil is trapped or laying in areas of the engine. Best thing is to make a dipstick, and after running the engine the first time, measuring the depth in the sump. That's where you'll fill it back up to next time around. Also, it should be noted that the heads have holes on each end that are open, and allow oil to spray out, sometimes very badly. You can plug those up with screws, or silicone. Those holes were meant for optionally adding "extra" oiling to the valvetrain. I don't recommend it. There's definitely enough oil up there already as you'll quickly find out when it's spraying out of the holes, but by diverting extra oil there, you're also taking it away from other areas that need it more.

 

[Grim]

I Guess i should update this. Btw I'm also in that fb group so we have most likely been chatting this whole time together somewhat. I still havent gotten mine to fully fire. Currently waiting on a new cdi, and hall sensor from cison, and i ordered 5 spare starter motors since its 5 for $50. I've replaced the gears in both pumps with the brass ones. We have two cison motors, but the second one we havent tryed to put it together yet until the first one gets running. With the cost of them they should both run so we want to get it going in order. And learn from the first one and get it right so the at least second one wont suffer at all in comparison. We expected to have to do some teoubleshooting but it shouldnt have turned out to be this much troubleshooting for the price being charged. Its definitely something you can tell some parts were sourced from other products that fit well enough to use instead of making each thing uniquely to the motor like the engine its supposed to be a copy of. Especially charging the premium its at with little help from the ones who created it. If it wasn't for the community around it, it wouldnt have but a small book that seems to be written by someone with no knowledge about motors trying to explain how to set it up using names that isnt the common name for most of the parts. A propper translator and engine specialist able to communicate between the the foreign markets that its being marketed on would get it much more positive outcomes where higher rates of successes are seen and better customer relations are built.

I've btakren it very slow with mine so that it doesn't become a $2000 table brick and have been taking baby steps while watching what others find out and resolve on theirs or do wrong so as to not do the same if its a do not do. Or a this works so do this instead.

Something to note to about them is when filling the radiator, be sure not to use water, use antifreeze because water will rust and eat away the piston sleeves from the outside within the heads when the water runs through trying to cool the motor. So ull end up with weakened sleeve walls and pited with rustwhuch can lead to inability to remove the dleaves if it gets bad enough.

the second engine we got luckily is the version when they started using the flathead block for the ohv version but the first ones the older version one with more flaws. I consider them defects of manufacturing as these are things that should have simple resolutions for and being they were selling them knowing the flaws without making people aware of them at all but kept selling them,they should be sending out the fixes to those that have units within those earlier models. But thats all for now i gotta take care of a few things to take care of

I just am now seeing this thread.

I think with these engines, and how tiny the machining is, there's bound to be minor tolerance issues. I noticed JohnnyQ90's video some things he had went on more easily than mine, and some of mine were easier than others on his. Mine is about 80% done, the only real issue I have had is that one of my lifters was sticking. Eventually traced it to the machining on one of the holes in the brass guide plates. I wound up having to very lightly work on the hole with a dremel to get the lifter to stop sticking. Didn't feel good about doing that, but oh well, I think it's just part of it. I really hate the two-piece design of the lifters too, that seems like a cheap way to cut corners. They should be one solid machined part.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Just a heads up, our friend @johnnydmd passed away earlier this year.

Thread 'Some sad community news'

Jun 17, 2025

Just found out in the Team N301 Nitro Drag team/group on FB that @johnnydmd recently passed away due to his battle with cancer. Rest easy man. Wish I had gotten to meet you some day.

• DavidB1126
• Replies: 29
• Forum: General Chaos

• 
• 

Good luck with your motor!

Johnny's car was a beast!!!

 

[Grim]

Just a heads up, our friend @johnnydmd passed away earlier this year.

Thread 'Some sad community news'

Jun 17, 2025

Just found out in the Team N301 Nitro Drag team/group on FB that @johnnydmd recently passed away due to his battle with cancer. Rest easy man. Wish I had gotten to meet you some day.

• DavidB1126
• Replies: 29
• Forum: General Chaos

• 
• 

Good luck with your motor!

Johnny's car was a beast!!!

Omg thats tragic. May he rest in peace and his family do well for the rest the time they have without him till they reunite. Ty for letting me know

 

[longarm]

Question for you guys. Has anyone else experienced two different sized cooling hose nipples on the back of the engine? The brass portion is bigger than the screw in square blocks. I’m not sure what to do with it.