Truggy or mojave

[Mikey]

If you're racing, head to the track(s) and ask what ppl are running for tires.
There might be other restrictions for motor esc and battery choices too. Better to find out and build the r/c for the class you're racing in.
Electric is prob a good choice for the beach. Nitro is loud.

I know E-Buggy is having more races then truggy. We have almost non truggy races here. My goal is tonstart to race with buggy but for home use I think a truggy or a Mojave is better.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I know E-Buggy is having more races then truggy. We have almost non truggy races here. My goal is tonstart to race with buggy but for home use I think a truggy or a Mojave is better.

If racing is important, you really should be thinking about what will serve you best at the track.
Short course was huge here at the tracks for years but not so much now.
If truggy isn't big at the track, maybe a buggy is a better choice.
For backyards and beaches, rough ungroomed surfaces, the large diameter truck tires work great.

I'm pretty sure you need TWO r/c's here!!!

@Littlemotor runs Tekno and swaers that they make a great truggy for backyard bashing AND as a fully capable track racer!

 

[DavidB1126]

I'm pretty sure you need TWO r/c's here!!!

Yea! Me personally I have 2 track(race) cars, 2 main bashers. Those bashers could be tuned for the track but they won't survive seeing a associated or xray on the track lol.

I mean, technically you could just have 1 car. You can get a EB48 2.x what ever tekno is on right now, have a base track setup, and then have a different setup for bashing. I seen people bash ET48s before. I think you can do it with a EB . But like said it would be better having 1 focused track car and 1 focused basher. Tell me how. I kinda mix track and bash both my slash and rustler. Switching back to bashing setup from track setup and vise versa takes a bit of time. I bashed my B74 before, just by putting on a old worn out set of carpet tires and running it in the alley and the backyard, lightly, although I know its more durable than my traxxas cars, just to be careful.

Right now I'm in the process of building up a typhon 6s, mainly not for racing but at my local "just for fun" track and bashing, since I'm coming from 1/10th scale racing.

Edit: Or @Littlemotor would love this, get a EB48 for the track and get a ET48 for bashing! Although, if you'd like to, the Mojave still makes a great basher.

Trying to think of the guy I saw on the Youtubes that bashed a Tekno. I think it was Bars&Tone RC but not sure.

 

[Mikey]

If racing is important, you really should be thinking about what will serve you best at the track.
Short course was huge here at the tracks for years but not so much now.
If truggy isn't big at the track, maybe a buggy is a better choice.
For backyards and beaches, rough ungroomed surfaces, the large diameter truck tires work great.

I'm pretty sure you need TWO r/c's here!!!

@Littlemotor runs Tekno and swaers that they make a great truggy for backyard bashing AND as a fully capable track racer!

I hear you! I have had minds on getting 2 rc’s and that might be the perfect choice

 

[CertifiedMike]

I hear you! I have had minds on getting 2 rc’s and that might be the perfect choice

I am honing my r/c logic like a jedi!!!

I wish I could drive like a jedi!

 

[Mikey]

I am honing my r/c logic like a jedi!!!

I wish I could drive like a jedi!

I wish the sport were bigger here in swe then it is atm. Far as I know E-Buggy is at an up going trend atm and truggy is dead. I really want to go all in on racing and spend time on it to 100%. I also want an rc to drive at home and truggy feels like a better choice when it’s higher then a buggy?
What are you guys thoughts about Futaba T10px? Is it overkill?

 

[DavidB1126]

What are you guys thoughts about Futaba T10px? Is it overkill?

Imo, yes its overkill. 800 bucks for the 10PX, or over 1k for the limited edition, is crazy. And plus you don't even need 10 channels unless you have stuff for telemetry or lights or something. FlySky NB4+ is right at 300 bucks, I have it myself and I love it. Not to mention it has what Futaba and Sanwa offers (mostly) for less. FlySky receivers are small and antenna less, only 30 to 40 bucks for a receiver, compared to Futaba is 70 to 100 bucks per receiver!

For the 200-400 dollar point for radios, my suggestions would be either FlySky NB4+, Futaba 4PM Plus, and Radiomaster MT12. Although the Radiomaster has lots of technology in it, its not fully advertised as a "racers radio", with being Futaba and Sanwa being the popular "racers radio" brands, but FlySky have been getting more into the game for an affordable radio that what high dollar ones can also do. Or if you want to stick with Futaba that has been known and reliable for over 30 years, you can find a used 10PX or 7PX/R used for around 400 to 500 bucks. But back to the NB4 FlySky, its more advanced (imho) then the latest Futabas because of the movable wheel, and integrated battery/battery packs. Also it is smaller and it feels better in my hand then a bigger Futaba. Best that I can tell you, and this is what I done as well before choosing a radio. Go to your local track, see if the racers can let you test drive their car, and see how you like their radio and car. I tested a few Sanwa M17s, a 10PX USLE, 4PM futabas, 7PX futabas, and a few NB4s. I personally liked how the NB4 felt better compared to the others. Also something I would like to say, is that you can improve the feel of the radio if you add some grip tape (like tennis racket tape) to it. Makes the radio feel more grippy.

 

[Littlemotor]

I wish the sport were bigger here in swe then it is atm. Far as I know E-Buggy is at an up going trend atm and truggy is dead. I really want to go all in on racing and spend time on it to 100%. I also want an rc to drive at home and truggy feels like a better choice when it’s higher then a buggy?
What are you guys thoughts about Futaba T10px? Is it overkill?

YES.

I’m a longtime Futaba user (since the mid 1980’s), and run a modified 10PX. If I were just getting into it, or having to buy a brand new radio setup right now, or recommend one (like I’m clearly doing ), it would HANDS DOWN be the FlySky Noble NB4+. NOT the “Pro”, just the NB4+.

 

[Littlemotor]

Also “Truggy is dead” because drivers ACCEPT that it is… I’ve got several friends out that way, and they all have truggies, and even take them to the tracks wether there’s enough for a class, or not.. if you do that-eventually other folks will as well, and they won’t be “dead” anymore..

The other thing is, there just aren’t as many “super cross” style tracks out there compared to here in the US, or even South America, Japan, Australia, etc.. Euro tracks tend to be faster, farrrrrrrr less jumps, and crazy well manicured tracks with very little “character” developing throughout the race day, or they’re primarily Astro turf, or carpet.. So most guys run 1:8 buggy..

Something else is that depending on where you are racing, you are likely going to be limited to 12-16% nitro fuel I believe.. So glad I was fortunate enough to be born here in the states lol..

I’m also a longtime nitro guy (and that will NEVER change), but run my flashlight vehicles too.. That being said-entering the hobby completely new-I would absolutely recommend going electric first. It’ll be sooooooo much easier to get acclimated with, and get used to just how the track/racing is operated. Get into nitro AFTER you’ve decided you’re in it for the long haul, verify you’ll have enough other racers for the class, and can learn to TUNE.

So again-I’d grab a truggy for wheeling around the local landscape, and a buggy to race, but ABSOLUTELY bring both to the track. If ya wanna run truck, it all starts with the RACER.

 

[PainKiller]

Hey, hey, I know. You should start a "With an $800~$1300 budget, what would you get?" thread. Sorry, I couldn't help myself. You may not get it, but the others will.

I get it.

 

[Mikey]

Imo, yes its overkill. 800 bucks for the 10PX, or over 1k for the limited edition, is crazy. And plus you don't even need 10 channels unless you have stuff for telemetry or lights or something. FlySky NB4+ is right at 300 bucks, I have it myself and I love it. Not to mention it has what Futaba and Sanwa offers (mostly) for less. FlySky receivers are small and antenna less, only 30 to 40 bucks for a receiver, compared to Futaba is 70 to 100 bucks per receiver!

For the 200-400 dollar point for radios, my suggestions would be either FlySky NB4+, Futaba 4PM Plus, and Radiomaster MT12. Although the Radiomaster has lots of technology in it, its not fully advertised as a "racers radio", with being Futaba and Sanwa being the popular "racers radio" brands, but FlySky have been getting more into the game for an affordable radio that what high dollar ones can also do. Or if you want to stick with Futaba that has been known and reliable for over 30 years, you can find a used 10PX or 7PX/R used for around 400 to 500 bucks. But back to the NB4 FlySky, its more advanced (imho) then the latest Futabas because of the movable wheel, and integrated battery/battery packs. Also it is smaller and it feels better in my hand then a bigger Futaba. Best that I can tell you, and this is what I done as well before choosing a radio. Go to your local track, see if the racers can let you test drive their car, and see how you like their radio and car. I tested a few Sanwa M17s, a 10PX USLE, 4PM futabas, 7PX futabas, and a few NB4s. I personally liked how the NB4 felt better compared to the others. Also something I would like to say, is that you can improve the feel of the radio if you add some grip tape (like tennis racket tape) to it. Makes the radio feel more grippy.

Huge thanks for a detailed explanation

 

[Mikey]

Also “Truggy is dead” because drivers ACCEPT that it is… I’ve got several friends out that way, and they all have truggies, and even take them to the tracks wether there’s enough for a class, or not.. if you do that-eventually other folks will as well, and they won’t be “dead” anymore..

The other thing is, there just aren’t as many “super cross” style tracks out there compared to here in the US, or even South America, Japan, Australia, etc.. Euro tracks tend to be faster, farrrrrrrr less jumps, and crazy well manicured tracks with very little “character” developing throughout the race day, or they’re primarily Astro turf, or carpet.. So most guys run 1:8 buggy..

Something else is that depending on where you are racing, you are likely going to be limited to 12-16% nitro fuel I believe.. So glad I was fortunate enough to be born here in the states lol..

I’m also a longtime nitro guy (and that will NEVER change), but run my flashlight vehicles too.. That being said-entering the hobby completely new-I would absolutely recommend going electric first. It’ll be sooooooo much easier to get acclimated with, and get used to just how the track/racing is operated. Get into nitro AFTER you’ve decided you’re in it for the long haul, verify you’ll have enough other racers for the class, and can learn to TUNE.

So again-I’d grab a truggy for wheeling around the local landscape, and a buggy to race, but ABSOLUTELY bring both to the track. If ya wanna run truck, it all starts with the RACER.

Thanks man for the advice! .

 

[Littlemotor]

Thanks man for the advice! .

No problem at all sir! -and if you’re looking for brand advice, and you can get parts for either brand without issue-my picks would be Tekno if you want to run a C-hub car, or Sworkz if you desire pillowball front end. Mugen is great, but you sure pay for them, and they haven’t done a lot with their design/offerings in a number of years now aside from very minute “adjustments”, and parts are not cheap either. They are very durable however, and aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. Xray makes top of the line stuff, but you REALLY pay for them, and IMO Tekno, and Sworkz are the same quality, or better today, and are far less expensive. Kyosho makes a tremendous C-hub car, but they fall into the same category as Mugen, but they haven’t made any major improvements to their design since literally 2006. They are also hands down THE most expensive to upgrade period. They had some brittle plastics issues with their suspension arms if driving in anything below 60deg Fahrenheit, but sorted that out a few years back now.

Lastly it is my (strong) opinion that a race grade KIT, is absolutely the way to go-no matter what your intentions are. The cost over the long run is the same, or even cheaper due to not having to spend tons of money upgrading not only subpar electronics, but upgrading factory RTR parts, spares, plastics, etc, and they are far easy to work on. They’re also much more durable, even (especially) if just bashing around. Factoring in that ANY race grade kit is lighter, and more capable as well… The best upgrade available for ANY vehicle in RC, is the ability to sit down, and build it yourself.

 

[Littlemotor]

I failed to recognize/touch on my opinion of Team Associated vehicles, and I apologize.. While they are still superior to any RTR, they are a blatant copy of the Mugen cars, and trucks. They’re fairly expensive, their hardware is complete trash, and they’ve had some differential issues for a couple years now. Spencer Rivkin has had more than a few DNF’s because of that actually. I do drive an Associated nitro buggy, and it’s been outfitted with a number of Mugen factory parts, as well as upgrades because of the fact that Team Associated already doesn’t have the best parts support right out of the gate, but they also literally stop PRODUCING replacement parts sooner than any other manufacturer in an effort to force hobbyists to dump their current Team Associated vehicle in favor of their latest release. And they very often times release “new” versions more than once a year…. It’s still a very nice, and capable vehicle, but I much prefer my Tekno’s across the board.

 

[Mikey]

I failed to recognize/touch on my opinion of Team Associated vehicles, and I apologize.. While they are still superior to any RTR, they are a blatant copy of the Mugen cars, and trucks. They’re fairly expensive, their hardware is complete trash, and they’ve had some differential issues for a couple years now. Spencer Rivkin has had more than a few DNF’s because of that actually. I do drive an Associated nitro buggy, and it’s been outfitted with a number of Mugen factory parts, as well as upgrades because of the fact that Team Associated already doesn’t have the best parts support right out of the gate, but they also literally stop PRODUCING replacement parts sooner than any other manufacturer in an effort to force hobbyists to dump their current Team Associated vehicle in favor of their latest release. And they very often times release “new” versions more than once a year…. It’s still a very nice, and capable vehicle, but I much prefer my Tekno’s across the board.

Is a RTR tekno good or should I buy a non RTR?

 

[CertifiedMike]

Is a RTR tekno good or should I buy a non RTR?

I didn't think Tekno sold rtr.
Always buy a kit.
RTR is easy but not the way to go.
Building your own kit gives you an advantage over rtr...
YOU can fix it because YOU built it and understand how it works!
YOU pick the electronics. Its all about you learning and understanding what you'll need to do to tune your car. You'll be adjusting shock oil, diff oil, springs, all sorts of linkage.
If you are racing, building your own kit is important! Unless you're set on a particular r/c that is ONLY avail rtr, kit is the way!

 

[Littlemotor]

Is a RTR tekno good or should I buy a non RTR?

Tekno doesn’t offer RTR grade vehicles, only race grade kits.

 

[Mikey]

I didn't think Tekno sold rtr.
Always buy a kit.
RTR is easy but not the way to go.
Building your own kit gives you an advantage over rtr...
YOU can fix it because YOU built it and understand how it works!
YOU pick the electronics. Its all about you learning and understanding what you'll need to do to tune your car. You'll be adjusting shock oil, diff oil, springs, all sorts of linkage.
If you are racing, building your own kit is important! Unless you're set on a particular r/c that is ONLY avail rtr, kit is the way!

True, i just misunderstood this with RTR kit if it was a better choice or not. Is there anyone you ppl know of that has a great Tekno with really nice setup? Engine, shocks and so on ? I'm reading and reading a lot lol, but this is a jungle of parts and equipment which i like but i need to start somewhere and if I'm gona spend a huge amount of money i want it to be good, really good

 

[Mikey]

Also “Truggy is dead” because drivers ACCEPT that it is… I’ve got several friends out that way, and they all have truggies, and even take them to the tracks wether there’s enough for a class, or not.. if you do that-eventually other folks will as well, and they won’t be “dead” anymore..

The other thing is, there just aren’t as many “super cross” style tracks out there compared to here in the US, or even South America, Japan, Australia, etc.. Euro tracks tend to be faster, farrrrrrrr less jumps, and crazy well manicured tracks with very little “character” developing throughout the race day, or they’re primarily Astro turf, or carpet.. So most guys run 1:8 buggy..

Something else is that depending on where you are racing, you are likely going to be limited to 12-16% nitro fuel I believe.. So glad I was fortunate enough to be born here in the states lol..

I’m also a longtime nitro guy (and that will NEVER change), but run my flashlight vehicles too.. That being said-entering the hobby completely new-I would absolutely recommend going electric first. It’ll be sooooooo much easier to get acclimated with, and get used to just how the track/racing is operated. Get into nitro AFTER you’ve decided you’re in it for the long haul, verify you’ll have enough other racers for the class, and can learn to TUNE.

So again-I’d grab a truggy for wheeling around the local landscape, and a buggy to race, but ABSOLUTELY bring both to the track. If ya wanna run truck, it all starts with the RACER.

Those "super cross" tracks are as you say rare in EU. I hope they change that and build more of those tracks here in the EU. I'm looking at a Tekno ET48 and a FlySky Noble NB4+ now. I just need to see what kind of engine and parts i need to get before hitting the order button

 

[PainKiller]

True, i just misunderstood this with RTR kit if it was a better choice or not. Is there anyone you ppl know of that has a great Tekno with really nice setup? Engine, shocks and so on ? I'm reading and reading a lot lol, but this is a jungle of parts and equipment which i like but i need to start somewhere and if I'm gona spend a huge amount of money i want it to be good, really good

You wanna talk to Littlemotor. He’s the Jedi Grand Master around here. I’m just a padawan but I’m having a ball