I'm new to 8 scale racing and setups. Wondering what you guys do to prevent "pushing" through turns, I was at my local track, and having a blast but the rc8 pushes like crazy...and what wt diff oil, I've read 5-5-5 just wondering
-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
To the racers....
- Thread starter tjlco
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 13,846
- Reaction score
- 13
- Points
- 721
- Location
- Aurora, Ohio (Cleveland)
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
exactly what I was going to ask. If you can let us know which situation you're trying to fix we have plenty of members with race experience that can help you with that.
- Thread starter
- #4
it seems to be on the throttle, as i have to go slow through turns, if I'm coasting or at a lower speed its does good, but at a lower speed I am getting passed by everyone. Its like I turn the wheels, and gas it, but the car goes straight...keep in mind I am only a month in to driving an 8 scale, been bashing and racing at home. Hope this all helps, Thanks in advance
Brushlessboy
RCTalk Addict
Drop the rear to 3000 and if you haven't got much droop dialled into the rear give it the maximum. This allows the front to squat more in the corners, which transfers the weight forward.
Carefull though because changing droop also changes the characteristics in the air...
Always remember there is a tradeoff for every change you make.
(dropping your rear to 3000 will also make it less squirrelly out of corners)
Carefull though because changing droop also changes the characteristics in the air...
Always remember there is a tradeoff for every change you make.
(dropping your rear to 3000 will also make it less squirrelly out of corners)
- Messages
- 13,846
- Reaction score
- 13
- Points
- 721
- Location
- Aurora, Ohio (Cleveland)
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
But that's not his issue. He's tight on throttle on exit. He can't touch the throttle or he just skirts toward the fence. He either needs to be more loose on throttle at the rear or more steering on throttle. If he's already 5000 at the rear I don't think he'd want to go any heavier so a diff oil change at the back is probably out of the equation although that's the most obvious solution (to go heavier oil at the rear). However, running heavier oil at the back is not generally recommended for overall best performance from what I've seen and experienced. We need to tackle it from another angle.
How is your steering response on entry (off-throttle)? Does it turn in real hard or does it push slightly initially and then turn in smoothly?
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Tighten the rear sway bar some, a few more mm's of preload. Tires are always the first thing you change on a racer though. If you don't have the right tire, it's not going to work no matter what. A little more preload on the rear shocks may help, but this will add to the squirrelly factor.
Watch the buggy closely when cornering on power,,, if the front inside tire lifts, add more preload to the front swaybar.
Watch the buggy closely when cornering on power,,, if the front inside tire lifts, add more preload to the front swaybar.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thats a good question, and I'll do my best to answer it. First off let me sat that I got this as a roller, dropped in a nova.21, hi tech 7955 for steering, and 645 for throttle. (I am putting a 7955tg for the throttle tonight as I have an extra). Anyway, I didn't change anything in the car, and had no idea about different weight oil for diffs, till reading around. I've been a tmaxxer and revo-er, for years but at home with friends, so these things didn't matter. If I blew a diff on the maxx, there's a few always on ebay that can be had for 10 bucks fully built. Sorry for the useless info just wanted to give you some backround...ok there is a little slop in the diffs all the way around and I think they need to be rebuilt or at least shimmed(so I've been told). I have no clue what oil is in there, still learning about anti squat, and other setup terms. Now to try and answer your original question..the best I can, it doesn't turn in hard by any means, and I do realize that I can't hit these turns at full speed, or even close, in fact I thought it was the track conditions giving me no bite in the front. If I'm not going to fast I can ease through the turns at 1/4 throttle or less. All the while being passed by a better handling car (and driver I'm sure). Ok I'm really sorry for the long useless post hope it helps answer so of your questions, and TTTHANKS for trying to help me out
supertool28
RC Newbie
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
A good starting point for your set-up
ft and rear camber -2 degrees
ft toe out 2 degrees
rear toe in 3 degrees
ft diff 3000, center 5000, rear 2000
Now drive, Lots.
Try coming into the turn fast and tap the brakes just befor you turn and then roll thru the turn. As you exit the turn at about 3/4 thru the turn, then get back in the throttle.
ft and rear camber -2 degrees
ft toe out 2 degrees
rear toe in 3 degrees
ft diff 3000, center 5000, rear 2000
Now drive, Lots.
Try coming into the turn fast and tap the brakes just befor you turn and then roll thru the turn. As you exit the turn at about 3/4 thru the turn, then get back in the throttle.
