tmaxx bb conversion kit

[ksrichard]

As you all know I'm looking to upgrade. I do have a complete rig needing a motor. I
Was wanting the lst xxl stil on back order. Anyway i was looking at the Dynamite bb
Conversion kit with mach .26. For $289. Couple questions. Mach .26. Isnt mach fake
Or make believe? Is it a good motor?. Or will this cost me more in the long run?
Upgrading tranny and diffs? I hope u can help. Again!

 

[Greywolf74]

The Mach 427 .26 is the stock motor that comes in the LST2 and is made by Dynamite. Its no novarossi or OS engine but for what it is its a good budget engine. I ran about 6 gallons through mine in the LST2 and its finishing out its life installed into my OFNA 9.5 MBX. Its got maybe 1 gallon on it since its been in that kit and it still runs as good as it ever has. I have ZERO complaint about it. That being said you can buy the stock XXL engine (Losi 454) off of ebay for about $120 bucks. That engine is even better IMO as its a rebadged LRP .28 spec 3.

 

[ksrichard]

I do like the 454. One reason of many i want the xxl. I can get the kit w/o motor for $100. At lhs..
If i go this route. Should i change tranny/diffs while I'm at it. I now very little about rebuilding a
Nitro rc. What size tranny? What brand? I have a feeling a new 1/8 scale is gonna be cheaper.
But all said n done i could look back n say i built this . Hmm.

 

[Greywolf74]

IDk the TMAXX in great detail so I can't help you there, I just know the engines

 

[chickenman242]

i've done a t maxx big block conversion using a force .28 and a flm hyper chassis
there is nothing wrong with using a budget engine in a maxx coz it was desinged to run a sb anyway
the only thing i have upgraded is the diffs to brushless emaxx ones and used steel dogdones in the centre,it even still runs a stock slipper and tranny gears
i'd do it again its great fun to drive and the whole conversion cost me about $250 even shipping to australia

 

[ksrichard]

Is that price including engine? not bad if so. Wat else is upgraded. Skid plates? Bulkheads? Arms? Chassis braces? i have rpm front arms. Thats it. Please respond. Thanks

 

[chickenman242]

I bought the truck with a blown 3.3 4909 chassis bought the diffs from ebay and the chassis and engine from lhs .I think that the flm chassis are getting hard to got a hold of.
The build is nothing flash but its great fun and I have only upgraded the diffs centre driveshafts and put a proline runtime tank on it
The pipe is a cheapo 1/8 buggy pipe the only thing I had to hunt around for was a bb header othr than that its totally stock and the great thing is its got wicked balance and a 4907 body fits perfectly

 

[olds97_lss]

Personally, unless it's a newer revo spec t-maxx (revo type axles/diff/trans), I'd stick with a small block or you will end up dumping enough $ into it to buy something built for a BB.

I ran a bb maxx back in the day before the 3.3 existed and it was a pain keeping it from grenading something even with a tame big block in it. With the newer revo style diffs/axles/trans though, may be a different story as I run a untame BB in my revo without having all the driveline issues I had with the maxx. However, I do have full RRP steel in the trans as I did shell trans gears frequently still. Diffs and axles hold up really well though. I replace the center axles about once a year due to slop/wear at the pivot points. I'd consider that just normal wear and tear though.

 

[bobbyc1127]

Honestly in my opinion you would be better just sticking with the 3.3. I see all the time where people upgrade this and upgrade that and then they are breaking this or blowing out that. Remember for each part you upgrade on the drive train you send the weak/breaking point down the line and by the time your done upgrading you have spent a ton of money on something. The 3.3 is a very good engine. I race my REVO Platinum TO THIS day and it is on it's 3 rd 3.3 motor with a little over 3 gallons on it. The T-MAXX and REVO are built around what the 3.3 puts out making it the best motor for the platform. I have raced against REVOs and T-MAXX trucks running the BB converted trucks and in a 30 minute race they usually fall off because of drive train breakage or flame out issues or overheating. Just my .02

 

[will1234]

i have a trx2.5 engine but seems to only run when throttle is half open if i tinker with the high speed and low speed enough ill get it right enough to run half way good but when i back throttle down it dies i do have a seal bad on my gas tank is this the problem? it happend all of a sudden it wasn't when it was wide open ether it was like i woke up on day and this happend.

 

[chickenman242]

Like I said if you go for a big block there are gonna be breakages because of the amount of torque of the bb and the fact the maxx is built around the 3.3
The bb conversion I did was based around a 4909 which is a swb revo spec drivline maxx which already had decient driveshafts ect the only thing that has been upgraded is the diffs and I give this thing a hiding
Plus its not a racer its a basher and the 3.3 has not been a great engine for me , the force on the other hand is brilliant for the money I spent, tune it once and for get about it and it makes my race spec maxx look like a slug
So I say if you have more than one maxx it great fun to build and is something differnt than what everybody else has

 

[frickenjoey]

I have a BB Maxx and I have dumped close to a grand into the thing over a few year period making it a bad ass. They are not a cheap project.

 

[sv250]

I had about $800 in mine. I parted it out recently. Maxx is too weak for a BB. Had to get all RR gears, steel shafts, emaxx diffs on top of the BB kit. Big waste of money

 

[chickenman242]

But whats the point if can't spend money and have fun its a hobby or addiction if you ask my wife

 

[frickenjoey]

I am running 6 gear Ofna Spider diffs dropped into FLM alloy hybrid diff/bulks so the differentials were never a weak point on mine.

 

[olds97_lss]

Any thoughts on listing a rundown of what it takes to use those bulks, diffs on a t-maxx? Regarding center and outer axles? Diff cups?

 

[frickenjoey]

Lets see, I use the MIP outdrives and they work quite nice with the diff cups. I used the stock diff cups that came with the Spiders. You do have to do a bit of shimming to get the diffs so sit in the bulks good and snug. But once you do it, it is pretty much forever. Now you can use the black stubs you see in the picture of the cases and use the stock MIP dif cups. On the inside the aft/rear I used Savage silver HD cups on the rear and the MIP cup coming off of the tranny output shaft. The front was the tricky part and took some help from our buddy Racer1966. I have the MIP diff cup shaved down with pegs for the brake disc pressed in and also another MIP shaft for the front/center. The easy way out would be to use a MIP slider shaft in the front since you can vary the length a bit as needed. I found on the BB conversions the front driveshaft and brakes tend to be the biggest hassle people run into. The slipper was also kind of tricky. The stock slipper was not standing up the the abuse I was putting to it. I made one to take Savage spur gears or now you can just go with the Robinson Racing Gen 3 Slipper. They are pretty sweet from what I have seen.