The "what you broke today" thread.

[Greywolf74]

Where am i contradicting myself? I said i broke some stuff yesterday, which i did, but, now go back and see where else recently that i posted i broke the same parts. Only then can you say it is a contradiction. On the Hunter, since march of 2018, i have broken one steering block, blew one bearing, destroyed one front bumper, and broke one shock, and nothing else. Anything else i have spent on that truck was to make my frankenstein creation, using a mix of DHK Zombie (rear hubs), DHK Raz-R (wing and wing mount), and DHK Maximus (tires, wheels, and 17MM hubs) parts. Nowhere in any of my posts do they contradict themselves. Yes, i broke stuff, but, at the same time, when i do, there is a very long gap between breakages.

You claim that your rigs virtually never break down and then all of a sudden 4 of them in one day. Coincidence or contradiction?

You claim that you always buy the electronics you buy because they work so good and youve been using them for years and then you start a thread asking for help because you can't figure out why half your electronics arent working right. Coincidence or contradiction?

In that same thread while arguing you corrected me by saying that it was only your 2 4WD rigs that were having problems then later in that same thread when I made the statement that 2 out of your 6 kits were having issues then you corrected me again by saying it was 4 of the 6 rigs. Coincidence or contradiction?

Then of course theres the epic thread about gearing where you made the claim that DP pitch was different from P and you used the argument that you new that to be true because you used to work in a factory that made specialty gearing but I showed a mountain of evidence that DP and P are indeed the same thing. Coincidence or contradiction?

Thats 4 different times I can think of right off the top of my head where you seem to have contradicted yourself. I mean what are the odds that these are just all just coincidence?

 

[cbaker65]

That sounds like my luck ,one minute my stuff never breaks ,next day its all broken!...

 

[biggman100]

You claim that your rigs virtually never break down and then all of a sudden 4 of them in one day. Coincidence or contradiction?

You claim that you always buy the electronics you buy because they work so good and youve been using them for years and then you start a thread asking for help because you can't figure out why half your electronics arent working right. Coincidence or contradiction?

Ok, I'll start with this one. I made a post and mentioned 2 out of 4 vehicles that were having the same issue, simply because I didn't feel like wasting time being redundant repeating myself 4 times. Now, about that post, I have, at the very least, proven to myself that you are, in fact, wrong. The issue was that I am using a WP 10BL60 ESC, paired with a GoolRC 3800KV 3660, and I would have to switch it off and back on every few minutes, but, I have since swapped to a Castle 3800KV motor from an original Sidewinder SCT combo, and, yesterday, ran 2 2S and 1 3S battery in it without it cutting out once. It was on 3S when I put the hole in the chassis, and broke the steering block. What that tells me, since I also swapped the GoolRC 3800KV motor in one of my other trucks, that previously had the same issue, for a Racers Edge 3650 3600KV motor, and, guess what, no more cutting out, so, apparently, the 10Bl60 is more than capable in a 1/10TH 4WD SCT, as long as it is paired with the proper motor for that ESC, which means I don't need to swap to the 10BL120 that you keep saying I just have to have, so, I still stand by what I have said about the 10BL60 ESC multiple times. As for breakages, the part you can't seem to get is this. Out of the 9 vehicles I ran yesterday, 4 of those broke. Of those 4, 3 of them, this is the first breakage in more than a year, and, 1 I have barely had a month. As for what broke, it was plastic, not electronics. The only electronic issue I had was that one wire, out of 9 ESC's came unsoldered due to my crappy soldering job.


As for the whole gearing debate, I gave up on it and started ignoring it awhile ago. What I am realizing is that you are the type that just has to be right, no matter what, even on a discussion that you shouldn't even be on. How many times has someone came here looking for CHEAP recommendations, and all you do is try to convince them that they just have to spend more than they are willing, just on your say so? Perfect example, someone mentioned a WLToys, and asked about cheap ideas along that price range, and, your first reply, spend way more and buy a Tekno, when he asked for cheap. Maybe try sticking to what you know. I know I do. I don't have any of that expensive stuff, so, I don't reply on any posts that mention stuff I have literally no experience with. You, on the other hand, constantly do that, just to make your opinion known.

 

[Greywolf74]

Ok, I'll start with this one. I made a post and mentioned 2 out of 4 vehicles that were having the same issue, simply because I didn't feel like wasting time being redundant repeating myself 4 times. Now, about that post, I have, at the very least, proven to myself that you are, in fact, wrong. The issue was that I am using a WP 10BL60 ESC, paired with a GoolRC 3800KV 3660, and I would have to switch it off and back on every few minutes, but, I have since swapped to a Castle 3800KV motor from an original Sidewinder SCT combo, and, yesterday, ran 2 2S and 1 3S battery in it without it cutting out once. It was on 3S when I put the hole in the chassis, and broke the steering block. What that tells me, since I also swapped the GoolRC 3800KV motor in one of my other trucks, that previously had the same issue, for a Racers Edge 3650 3600KV motor, and, guess what, no more cutting out, so, apparently, the 10Bl60 is more than capable in a 1/10TH 4WD SCT, as long as it is paired with the proper motor for that ESC, which means I don't need to swap to the 10BL120 that you keep saying I just have to have, so, I still stand by what I have said about the 10BL60 ESC multiple times.

can't really follow what you're trying to say here as its very muddled and confusing but it sounds like your saying you took out a gool rc motor and put in a castle 1410 and it worked fine and then you took the gool rc motor and put it in a different kit and it worked fine? If thats what you're saying then I was right in saying you needed a 120A ESC. The GoolRC motor would have worked just fine in that kit if youd had one. Theres a reason that almost every 4WD RTR SCT out there come with ESCs that are around 120A. Can you make a smaller one work? Possibly, if you find the right combination of parts to work with it but if you had a proper sized ESC in the first place then you can use most any motor you want for a given scale and without issue. Then you would have so much problems knowing what motors to pair with what ESCs.

All of that is a little beside the point though because the point that I was trying to make is you claimed in one thread to not have any issues with your cheap electronics but then you start another thread where you were having issues with your electronics and therein lies the contradiction.

As for breakages, the part you can't seem to get is this. Out of the 9 vehicles I ran yesterday, 4 of those broke. Of those 4, 3 of them, this is the first breakage in more than a year, and, 1 I have barely had a month. As for what broke, it was plastic, not electronics. The only electronic issue I had was that one wire, out of 9 ESC's came unsoldered due to my crappy soldering job.

I mean if this had been the only contradiction then Id chalk it up as a coincidence but it isnt. Theres been too many of these cases now to believe any of them are coincidences.

As for the whole gearing debate, I gave up on it and started ignoring it awhile ago.

You started ignoring it because I have 2 or 3 pages of posts proving you didnt know what you were talking about. Even Amain and Horizon Hobbies both agreed that I was right.

What I am realizing is that you are the type that just has to be right, no matter what,

I'm the type that is willing argue until I'm blue in the face when I believe I am right unless you prove me wrong. Something you have yet to do. Other people in the forum have proven me wrong before. I even admitted it and thanked people for teaching me something I didnt previously know.

even on a discussion that you shouldn't even be on.

What pray-tell is a discussion that I shouldnt be on? As far as I know this is an open forum and I'm allowed to take part in any discussion I wish. Is my opinion somehow less valid because you dont like it? GTFO here with that bullshit.

How many times has someone came here looking for CHEAP recommendations, and all you do is try to convince them that they just have to spend more than they are willing, just on your say so? Perfect example, someone mentioned a WLToys, and asked about cheap ideas along that price range, and, your first reply, spend way more and buy a Tekno, when he asked for cheap.

First off lets get the facts straight. It was a Tamiya not WLToys but ok, whatever. I gave the guy my personal opinion on the Tekno kit. After all he hadnt ruled out the possibility at that point that he was unable/unwilling to spend more than what he was looking at spending on the Tamiya kit. After he did rule it out due to its price point did you see me in there pressuring him to buy it anyway? No you didnt. I dropped it because I only make recommendations based on me personal preference and experiences. I dont try to force anyone to buy anything.

you're confusing this with me repeatedly telling you that you're electronics are cheap because you keep making bad recommendations to people. Its your opinion and you're entitled to it but I'm also entitled to mine. The problem I have with your opinion is it goes against the grain of whats conventionally accepted and is more likely to lead another user to make a bad purchase and having a bad experience and why? Because you can't save up money before making purchases so you dont think other people can either. Id rather see someone take a little longer with a build and have it more likely to turn out good than to do it quicker and have it turn out bad. you're entire example is flawed and does not actually support what you're saying.

Maybe try sticking to what you know. I know I do. I don't have any of that expensive stuff, so, I don't reply on any posts that mention stuff I have literally no experience with.

lol, I'm not sure what to even make of this. I own a lot of high end RC stuff. Back in the day when I first got in to the hobby I had my fair share of cheap stuff. I still occasionally buy cheap or mid range stuff still if I think it will work for what I want it to do. So even according to your logic here, I'm qualified to speak on matters of high end RC, low end RC, and everything in between.

Sometimes I wonder if you even read the same forum I do. I can dig up many many many posts where I will happily acknowledge that I dont know much of anything about what the OP asked. Go look through the plane, heli, and nitro forums. I do that alot there because I only know a fraction about those things compared to electric ground kits. Do you see me in the nitro forum arguing with cBaker about nitro stuff? Hell no, because I can clearly recognize that he knows way more about nitro than I do so when I read his posts I'm soaking in valuable information that I didnt previously know. I'm not trying to argue with him because something he said goes against something I thought I had an idea about. Even if Baker said something that I was 99% sure was wrong we'd have a debate about it in order to get down to who has the correct information cuz at the end of the day thats what debates and forums are for, figuring out and distilling down accurate information. I know a poop ton about electrics, batteries, chargers, and electronics in general. I've been in this hobby for at least a dozen years or more and I've spent tens of thousands of dollars on RC stuff so I have a ton of experience with a lot of different products. I have an entire 13 x 23 ft room devoted to nothing but RCs and electronics. I also have a degree and a couple of certifications in computer science. While its not directly related to RC does have some cursory correlations between the two fields. So you'll have to excuse me if I feel like my opinion is justified in a lot of threads but even if it wasn't its still just my opinion and your welcome to ignore it the same as anyone else.

Just to be clear, I'm not trying to brag, I'm simply demonstrating a point.

You, on the other hand, constantly do that, just to make your opinion known.

This has got to be the most ignorant statement I've ever heard. Everyone in this forum is constantly making their opinions known so how am I different from everyone else?

Plus a lot of the time I'm not stating opinions, I'm stating facts. If I state facts I can back them up. The gearing thread is proof of that. You argued with me for 3 pages of a thread where I constantly presented you with items that backed up my facts. The entire time you argued with me all you did was kept restating your opinion as if it was fact without a single link, pic, or chart to try and back up what you were saying. Sometimes I even get in to debates with people where they do present items to back up what they are saying and when people do that and can show me that I'm wrong I have admitted that I was wrong and changed my whole stand point on whatever that particular topic was. I'm a big boy, I can admit when I'm wrong. You always want to argue with me but you never have any justification to back up your opinions. Just like the gearing thread all you do is state your opinion as if it were fact.

On top of all that, you trash talk me like I'm some kind of nuisance on the forum. I dare say that I put waaaay more work in to helping people in this forum than you do. I spend an inordinate amount of time looking up and researching stuff for people in order to try and give them valuable and helpful information for whatever it is that theyre having problems with. I also spend a ton of time and my own money to buy and test things in order to help people make better decisions in their hobby experiences and purchases. Whether thats batteries, connectors, tires, or whatever. I've sent people items for free that I didnt need or I had extras of because someone was stuck between a rock and a hard place. A lot of us in here have done things like that. What contributions have you made to this forum besides trying to convince everyone that 60A ESCs are appropriate choices for 4WD SCTs?

 

[biggman100]

can't really follow what you're trying to say here as its very muddled and confusing but it sounds like your saying you took out a gool rc motor and put in a castle 1410 and it worked fine and then you took the gool rc motor and put it in a different kit and it worked fine? If thats what you're saying then I was right in saying you needed a 120A ESC. The GoolRC motor would have worked just fine in that kit if youd had one. Theres a reason that almost every 4WD RTR SCT out there come with ESCs that are around 120A. Can you make a smaller one work? Possibly, if you find the right combination of parts to work with it but if you had a proper sized ESC in the first place then you can use most any motor you want for a given scale and without issue. Then you would have so much problems knowing what motors to pair with what ESCs.

No, what i said is, i took the GoolRC 3660 3800KV motor from both of my hunters, kept the same WP 10BL60, and, in one hunter, paired it with the Castle 1410, and, in the other, paired it with a Racers Edge 3600KV, and, after doing that, i had no issues with either truck, so, today, just to see what would happen, i took the 3650 3500KV i use in all of my 2WD SCT's out of both my Arrma Fury, and my ECX Torment, and put those motors in both of my 4WD Hunters, and, they worked flawlessly, so, as a cheap set up, the 10BL60 will work in any 1/10TH platform, as long as it is paired with the proper motor. I also dropped a brand new 3660 3300KV motor i picked up in my Hunter, using the same ESC i always do, and it went right back to acting up, which tells me that the 10BL60 just isnt designed to work with a 3660 motor. Since all of my testing today shows that the ESC i typically use will work, if paired with the proper motor, i still dont see any need for a 120A ESC that costs me twice as much as a 60A does. As for the GoolRC 3660, i only even put those motors in based on someone elses recommendation. For me though, since i dont need insane speed, or the power to do stupid stunts, a 3650 motor and 60A ESC are more than enough, in any of my vehicles.

 

[Greywolf74]

No, what i said is, i took the GoolRC 3660 3800KV motor from both of my hunters, kept the same WP 10BL60, and, in one hunter, paired it with the Castle 1410, and, in the other, paired it with a Racers Edge 3600KV, and, after doing that, i had no issues with either truck, so, today, just to see what would happen, i took the 3650 3500KV i use in all of my 2WD SCT's out of both my Arrma Fury, and my ECX Torment, and put those motors in both of my 4WD Hunters, and, they worked flawlessly, so, as a cheap set up, the 10BL60 will work in any 1/10TH platform, as long as it is paired with the proper motor. I also dropped a brand new 3660 3300KV motor i picked up in my Hunter, using the same ESC i always do, and it went right back to acting up, which tells me that the 10BL60 just isnt designed to work with a 3660 motor. Since all of my testing today shows that the ESC i typically use will work, if paired with the proper motor, i still dont see any need for a 120A ESC that costs me twice as much as a 60A does. As for the GoolRC 3660, i only even put those motors in based on someone elses recommendation. For me though, since i dont need insane speed, or the power to do stupid stunts, a 3650 motor and 60A ESC are more than enough, in any of my vehicles.

Nothing you said here negates the fact that if you had a proper ESC you wouldnt have to worry about if the motor is a 3650 or a 3660. So my statement still stands "Can you make a smaller one work? Possibly, if you find the right combination of parts to work with it but if you had a proper sized ESC in the first place then you can use most any motor you want for a given scale and without issue. Then you would have so much problems knowing what motors to pair with what ESCs. "

 

[biggman100]

All of that is a little beside the point though because the point that I was trying to make is you claimed in one thread to not have any issues with your cheap electronics but then you start another thread where you were having issues with your electronics and therein lies the contradiction.

It isnt just the electronics though, it is every recommendation i make, you seem to have an issue with, but, i think i figured out why. I am either lucky, blessed or both, or maybe it is just because i dont use my stuff in a way that it wasn't intended to be used. For perfect example, i am sitting here looking at a BL Redcat Volcano, that, the only thing i have done to it in the last 6 months is change tires and wheels. Granted, when i first bought that truck, which was my first HSP based vehicle, i ultimately swapped the dogbones for CVD's, and swapped the cheap stock bearings for rubber shielded ones, which is now the first thing i do to any of my HSP based stuff. I also have two HSP based buggies, an Exceed RC drift car, an HSP Based on road car, and 2 HSP Based rally cars, and, none of those have given me near as many problems as my V1 Arrma Granite and V1 Arrma Senton (which i have since gotten rid of), and they all work pretty well for me, but, anytime i make a recommendation to anyone looking for cheap stuff, all i get from you and others is how they are cheap junk, except, they seem to work very well for me, and, are actually more durable than some of my Tamiya stuff, most of which i dont even bother with anymore. They just sit in boxes. The only Tamiya cars i bother with anymore are a vintage TL-01 that i am slowly rebuilding when i feel like it, and my 2 XV-01's, that get ran maybe one battery once a month or so. The rest of my Tamiya stuff (i have 14 Tamiya cars total), are all just sitting in boxes in my shed. Whenever i make recommendations about electronics, based on what has repeatedly worked for me, i also get crap from you about how i need to spend more, and, i think i figured out what the issue is there. Unlike most, I'm not interested in going 50+ MPH with an RC car. My Arrma Fury does 44MPH (verified) using a 10BL60 ESC and a 3500KV 3650 (that same ESC and motor have been in that truck 3 straight years, until i pulled the motor today just to do some tests in my DHK Hunter with it) motor, and that is more than enough for me, but, i can't recommend that, because, to you, it has to be more, more, more. Well, unlike most here, i am perfectly content with an RC car that does 30-40MPH max, and have no interest in ever going faster, or running 4S or larger batteries (which is the only reason i could see anyone wanting a 120A ESC, is to run 3S and 4S consistently, which i have no interest in at all). Up until last year, all of my stuff either ran on 5000MAH NIMH, or 5000MAH 2S Lipo, and i was perfectly content with that. The only reason i even own any 3S batteries is because i bought a Losi 22S to replace a truck i couldnt get parts for, and, since it said it was capable of 3S, my GF researched it, and bought 2 Gen's Ace 3S batteries, that most of the time just sit in the box i keep my batteries in, since i am perfectly content running the 22S on 2S most of the time, but, to you and most here, it always has to be about more speed and power, so, my recommendations get pushed aside, so, i am just going to bow out, and stick with other things.

You keep harping on my post about the issues i had with that ESC/motor combo, but refused to get that, since i swapped to the proper motor, and it now works without issue, your recommendation about a 120A ESC is pointless, yet you continue to go back to that. Well, ill make it simple, mention it all you want, but, since i proved that the 10BL60 does work in any 1/10TH platform i own, i will continue to spend less and keep using that ESC on any future vehicle i buy or build. I will just make sure to pair it with a 3650 motor from now on, since that is what works for me. Another point you have consistently missed, and dont seem to get is this. In the last 3 years, i have bought a total of 9 10BL60 ESC's, and, of those 9, only one has actually failed, and that was due to my own negligence, because i forgot to unplug the fan before burying it in water. The other 8 however, still work perfectly fine. Even the ones i had issues with because i paired them with the wrong motor, seem to have had no lasting ill effects.

 

[Greywolf74]

It isnt just the electronics though, it is every recommendation i make, you seem to have an issue with, but, i think i figured out why. I am either lucky, blessed or both, or maybe it is just because i dont use my stuff in a way that it wasn't intended to be used. For perfect example, i am sitting here looking at a BL Redcat Volcano, that, the only thing i have done to it in the last 6 months is change tires and wheels. Granted, when i first bought that truck, which was my first HSP based vehicle, i ultimately swapped the dogbones for CVD's, and swapped the cheap stock bearings for rubber shielded ones, which is now the first thing i do to any of my HSP based stuff. I also have two HSP based buggies, an Exceed RC drift car, an HSP Based on road car, and 2 HSP Based rally cars, and, none of those have given me near as many problems as my V1 Arrma Granite and V1 Arrma Senton (which i have since gotten rid of), and they all work pretty well for me, but, anytime i make a recommendation to anyone looking for cheap stuff, all i get from you and others is how they are cheap junk, except, they seem to work very well for me, and, are actually more durable than some of my Tamiya stuff, most of which i dont even bother with anymore. They just sit in boxes. The only Tamiya cars i bother with anymore are a vintage TL-01 that i am slowly rebuilding when i feel like it, and my 2 XV-01's, that get ran maybe one battery once a month or so. The rest of my Tamiya stuff (i have 14 Tamiya cars total), are all just sitting in boxes in my shed. Whenever i make recommendations about electronics, based on what has repeatedly worked for me, i also get crap from you about how i need to spend more, and, i think i figured out what the issue is there. Unlike most, I'm not interested in going 50+ MPH with an RC car. My Arrma Fury does 44MPH (verified) using a 10BL60 ESC and a 3500KV 3650 (that same ESC and motor have been in that truck 3 straight years, until i pulled the motor today just to do some tests in my DHK Hunter with it) motor, and that is more than enough for me, but, i can't recommend that, because, to you, it has to be more, more, more. Well, unlike most here, i am perfectly content with an RC car that does 30-40MPH max, and have no interest in ever going faster, or running 4S or larger batteries (which is the only reason i could see anyone wanting a 120A ESC, is to run 3S and 4S consistently, which i have no interest in at all). Up until last year, all of my stuff either ran on 5000MAH NIMH, or 5000MAH 2S Lipo, and i was perfectly content with that. The only reason i even own any 3S batteries is because i bought a Losi 22S to replace a truck i couldnt get parts for, and, since it said it was capable of 3S, my GF researched it, and bought 2 Gen's Ace 3S batteries, that most of the time just sit in the box i keep my batteries in, since i am perfectly content running the 22S on 2S most of the time, but, to you and most here, it always has to be about more speed and power, so, my recommendations get pushed aside, so, i am just going to bow out, and stick with other things.

Its not every time. Its really only been a handful of times its just every time it happens it turns in to an epic debate like the gearing thread because no matter how much people (not just me) try to teach you the good way vs your way you dont learn anything from it. If it works for you then great fine I'm glad, but telling someone to use a 60A ESC in a 4WD SCT is a bad recommendation and its going to get shot down every time you make it so the person thats asking will know its not a good recommendation. Just using that as one example. No one is even telling you not to do it, all were saying is learn the right way and make recommendations that make sense or at least if you're going to recommend a 60A ESC to someone with a 4WD SCT then tell them up front that its only something to try if their budget has no wiggle room in it, theyre unwilling save up a little money for what they really need, and that theyre going to be pushing the envelope of what that ESC was designed for if they do it. That way if they try it and they have a bad experience then at least you warned them ahead of time that it may happen. This isnt even about your electronics recommendations though. This was just pointing out the contradictions in things your saying vs what youve said in the past.

 

[biggman100]

Its not every time.

What people try to teach me? Good one, except, what they often try to teach me contradicts exactly what i have been doing for years, so, i will stick with what works for me, and not waste my money needlessly on overkill, like everyone else seems to do. As for that 60A not working in a 1/10TH 4WD, thats funny, since 4 of the vehicles i have that ESC in are 1/10TH 4WD (2 DHK Hunters, a DHK Wolf 2, Arrma Granite V1 Mega), and, until i used a 3660 motor, i never once had an issue using that ESC, and, in every one of those vehicles, they have had the same ESC for the last 2 or 3 years. Other than the Arrma BLX100 i just ordered the other day (after multiple people insisted i just had to have a more powerful ESC and a 3660 motor), i havent bought a BL ESC in more than a year, and, two of my trucks get ran almost every day. My Arrma fury, with a 60A ESC and 3650 3500KV motor goes everywhere with me, and, my DHK wolf 2, if I'm not running it, other people are, on the same 60A ESC and 3600KV 3650 it has had since i first bought it over 2 years ago.

Here is the only thing i have actually learned from any of this. If you are using a 3660 motor, then, yes, you need a 120A ESC, but, if you are using a 3650 motor, a 60A is perfectly fine, and, since i just traded my 3 3660 motors for four 3650 motors, and have no intentions of ever buying another 3660 motor, a 60A ESC is perfectly fine for what i do.

 

[Greywolf74]

I'm done arguing with you. And I apologize for hijacking my mans thread. Sorry boys. Carry on.

 

[500 Mike]

I didn’t break this today but recently enough. Replaced the wheel, belts and gears and now it won’t turn on. Me and electricity don’t get along well, hence my being drawn to nitro. No idea what I did to it but I’m going to stick with my pull starter. I’m over it. I just bash and practice on the local track so ultimate performance isn’t high on my list. Very frustrating.

 

[STONER RC]

I didn’t break this today but recently enough. Replaced the wheel, belts and gears and now it won’t turn on. Me and electricity don’t get along well, hence my being drawn to nitro. No idea what I did to it but I’m going to stick with my pull starter. I’m over it. I just bash and practice on the local track so ultimate performance isn’t high on my list. Very frustrating.

The pull start is definitely the way to go. The boxes and the electric starts. Just adds extra things to break and not work...pull start 100% I always keep extra string on me just incase..

 

[500 Mike]

Thanks for the encouragement Stoner. I've finally learned how to get it started with just 5-10 pulls or so on a pretty consistent basis. Never could get the starter box to work for me. I know many others use them very successfully but not me. I'm sure I didn't get it set up right but couldn't stand the frustration so its back to basics, pull start. Sometimes I am a slow learner , but I get it eventually. Still having a blast with this truggy!

Just replaced my LF CV shaft on my Losi. Noticed it was bent last week (how I don't know) and wobbling pretty good. Parts came in today and got it replaced with ease. Having almost as much fun working on this thing as driving it!

 

[STONER RC]

Thanks for the encouragement Stoner. I've finally learned how to get it started with just 5-10 pulls or so on a pretty consistent basis. Never could get the starter box to work for me. I know many others use them very successfully but not me. I'm sure I didn't get it set up right but couldn't stand the frustration so its back to basics, pull start. Sometimes I am a slow learner , but I get it eventually. Still having a blast with this truggy!

Just replaced my LF CV shaft on my Losi. Noticed it was bent last week (how I don't know) and wobbling pretty good. Parts came in today and got it replaced with ease. Having almost as much fun working on this thing as driving it!

Yeah man that's awesome glad to hear it bud. To be honest I love wrenching on them 100%. Has nothing to do with being a slow learner.. its that someone gave you their opinion about boxes or you read that they were easier to start a nitro..truthfully it all comes down to the tune on the engine. Once you have a good tune. And with good plug and glow igniter.. And after the engine is primed you should start 2 - 3 maybe 4 pulls. Plus a heat gun and pre heating the engine helps alot..

 

[STONER RC]

The above disagreement is funny to me. As it has been the same on other threads and other fourms.. with the same one person. As they have been told again and again. That it's not about the cheap crap electronics you buy. That's your rite and OPINON to do so. And if you want to run that in your RC thats fine.. you wine and cry about everyone talking about the cheap crap. And that we always suggest high end electronics. See the thing is..I'm not going to suggest cheap parts or electronics I know for a fact won't work. In the up coming weeks or months. It's always better to save a little more to get the better equipment. In the end you won't keep buy set ups till its figured out why stuff all of a sudden done work.. because it can't handle the amp draw of the motor. Also its because it's made with cheaply made components. Hence why they are cheap. And to suggest cheaper ones to new guys that ask for suggestions is fine. But that's your opinion that's all. It's not like you said before... NO you should buy this set up it's cheaper and works fine for me... well everyone isn't you and don't run the same rc as you. So your set up probably won't work in others. And who in the RC hobby doesn't want more power and speed. With a 1/10 4wd sct the standard would be a 100amp -120amp esc paired with a 3660 3500kv. Which was being ran first hence the problems now.The 3660 is to big of amp draw for a 60A esc in a 4wd sct..that's why it was said if you do run a 60 it would need to be geared and paired with the correct motor. And it will be ok for a while...but that couldn't be heard over the ignorance of the person not willing to listen to the group of guys.. but in the end what happened to the esc it started to not work rite hence the wrong motor in the kit. It was said before it wouldn't work. A debate started then also. All that was trying to be said was that a 3660 3500kv paired with a 60A esc won't work in a 4wd.And if you want to run the 3660 you need bigger esc.. But nope you were rite because that's what you always ran.. well where are you now. What did you break today..Let's see oh yeah. You had to change motors. Not because you figured it out. And did tests It was said time time again. But always had to be defensive..its on every forum on internet. A 4wd sct running a 3660 3500kv needs atleast a 120A esc.. NO one cares if you buy cheap or expensive. We care if you run the correct equipment for that said kit at question.. you want to spend more on electronics in 6months then I do In few yrs. Whatever that's on you. But don't give out miss information to new guys that want the rite answer or the correct set up for thier kit. That's the reason they joined.. to get the rite information and the correct factual information. Not someone's opinion pushed on them because you don't want to spend a little extra $$ on quality products.. because you would rather buy the cheaper crap that's under sized for your kit. And say see the 60A works.. and To make sure nothing breaks on them. That's not what everyone wants out of their kit...everyone has opinion. But the fact are facts. If you can't deal with that then I'm sorry get over it and deal with it.. we are here to learn and have fun while doing it. As said before need to have a open mind and look at it from the other side. Just because it's the way you do it and it works. It sure the hell doesn't mean it's the correct way or everyone's way sorry. But that's a fact.. we are mostly grown ass men. And if you can't take disagreements or debates. With out taken it personal. I feel for ya.. its not about you it about the kit.. to hell with you don't know you from Adam.. its about the RC not the person or what they do or their other hobbies... here its all about the RC kit not the person... There's alot of awesome knowledgeable, very informative, RC hobby enthusiasts. And I'm sure they all know way more facts then opinions about RC electronics or the RC hobby in general.. Then a person that only runs one style or type.and only runs a SCT on 2s.. that are made for racing. And to be upgraded from the stock.. to their liking and most people always want more power and more speed what guy doesn't want that from their RC kit.. If you don't that's fine. But it comes down to don't just suggest what works for you.. because everyone isn't you and usually want more from their rc kit... so stop thinking that the hobby and what we say is always about spending money FU*K the money. It has to do with giving the correct information to others. To help them with their RC problems at hand. And to research information for their particular question and kit. Not just sit there and suggest opinions. So stop the BS about being picked on for buying cheap sh*t. No one gives a crap about how much money you spend on all the cheap electronics you buy and keep buying over and over.. hope everyone has a great weekend of bashing and racing and let's move on from this BS cheap crap please.....sorry needed that vent....

 

[biggman100]

The above disagreement is funny to me. As it has been the same on other threads and other fourms.. with the same one person. As they have been told again and again. That it's not about the cheap crap electronics you buy. That's your rite and OPINON to do so. And if you want to run that in your RC thats fine.. you wine and cry about everyone talking about the cheap crap. And that we always suggest high end electronics. See the thing is..I'm not going to suggest cheap parts or electronics I know for a fact won't work. In the up coming weeks or months. It's always better to save a little more to get the better equipment. In the end you won't keep buy set ups till its figured out why stuff all of a sudden done work.. because it can't handle the amp draw of the motor. Also its because it's made with cheaply made components. Hence why they are cheap. And to suggest cheaper ones to new guys that ask for suggestions is fine. But that's your opinion that's all. It's not like you said before... NO you should buy this set up it's cheaper and works fine for me... well everyone isn't you and don't run the same rc as you. So your set up probably won't work in others. And who in the RC hobby doesn't want more power and speed. With a 1/10 4wd sct the standard would be a 100amp -120amp esc paired with a 3660 3500kv. Which was being ran first hence the problems now.The 3660 is to big of amp draw for a 60A esc in a 4wd sct..that's why it was said if you do run a 60 it would need to be geared and paired with the correct motor. And it will be ok for a while...but that couldn't be heard over the ignorance of the person not willing to listen to the group of guys.. but in the end what happened to the esc it started to not work rite hence the wrong motor in the kit. It was said before it wouldn't work. A debate started then also. All that was trying to be said was that a 3660 3500kv paired with a 60A esc won't work in a 4wd.And if you want to run the 3660 you need bigger esc.. But nope you were rite because that's what you always ran.. well where are you now. What did you break today..Let's see oh yeah. You had to change motors. Not because you figured it out. And did tests It was said time time again. But always had to be defensive..its on every forum on internet. A 4wd sct running a 3660 3500kv needs atleast a 120A esc.. NO one cares if you buy cheap or expensive. We care if you run the correct equipment for that said kit at question.. you want to spend more on electronics in 6months then I do In few yrs. Whatever that's on you. But don't give out miss information to new guys that want the rite answer or the correct set up for thier kit. That's the reason they joined.. to get the rite information and the correct factual information. Not someone's opinion pushed on them because you don't want to spend a little extra $$ on quality products.. because you would rather buy the cheaper crap that's under sized for your kit. And say see the 60A works.. and To make sure nothing breaks on them. That's not what everyone wants out of their kit...everyone has opinion. But the fact are facts. If you can't deal with that then I'm sorry get over it and deal with it.. we are here to learn and have fun while doing it. As said before need to have a open mind and look at it from the other side. Just because it's the way you do it and it works. It sure the hell doesn't mean it's the correct way or everyone's way sorry. But that's a fact.. we are mostly grown ass men. And if you can't take disagreements or debates. With out taken it personal. I feel for ya.. its not about you it about the kit.. to hell with you don't know you from Adam.. its about the RC not the person or what they do or their other hobbies... here its all about the RC kit not the person... There's alot of awesome knowledgeable, very informative, RC hobby enthusiasts. And I'm sure they all know way more facts then opinions about RC electronics or the RC hobby in general.. Then a person that only runs one style or type.and only runs a SCT on 2s.. that are made for racing. And to be upgraded from the stock.. to their liking and most people always want more power and more speed what guy doesn't want that from their RC kit.. If you don't that's fine. But it comes down to don't just suggest what works for you.. because everyone isn't you and usually want more from their rc kit... so stop thinking that the hobby and what we say is always about spending money FU*K the money. It has to do with giving the correct information to others. To help them with their RC problems at hand. And to research information for their particular question and kit. Not just sit there and suggest opinions. So stop the BS about being picked on for buying cheap sh*t. No one gives a crap about how much money you spend on all the cheap electronics you buy and keep buying over and over.. hope everyone has a great weekend of bashing and racing and let's move on from this BS cheap crap please.....sorry needed that vent....

I wasn't going to bother wasting more time with you, since it is extremely clear to me reading isnt your strong suit, but, i decided to do this yet another way, and clear some of this up. There are only two parts of this i am going to address, the first being, stop taking my comments out of context and mixing them up. The reason i say this is because, you took my comments about ESC's i burnt up, and issues with another ESC, and put them together, so, let me clarify. The comment in question was in regards to a post asking about GoolRC combos, to which i replied, at one point i burnt up 6 GoolRC 60A ESC's, and two Surpass Hobby 60A ESC's in the span of 3 months. Here is the part of that you continually overlook though. All of those burnt up ESC's (which were, again, GoolRC and Surpass Hobby, not HW) were replaced in April of 2019 with WP 10BL60 RTR Redcat rebranded HW 60A ESC's, of which, i bought a total of 9 at that time. Now, since April of 2019, i have only burnt up exactly 1 of those HW 60A ESC's due to my own negligence. It is now November of 2021, and, guess what, i am still running the same exact ESC's i bought in April of 2019. In fact, i havent bought an ESC of any type since around that time, except for the BLX100 i bought the other day, which means, i am going on nearly 3 years of running the exact same ESC's i have been. Now, the other part of the ESC debate was simply this. I paired the wrong motor with the ESC i continually use. I have since corrected that. Now, on to the, who doesn't want more speed and power, comment that i hear from many people. What part of I DONT can you not seem to get? When i buy a vehicle, one of the things i figure out, if possible, is what the manufacturers limits are for that vehicle, and i always stay well within those limits, which is how the whole 3660 motor issue came about in the first place. I bought several DHK Hobby vehicles, but, couldnt find that info from DHK Hobby, so, stupidly, i went to a DHK forum, only to get told that they will have no issue on a 3660 motor. Not once was it stated in those posts that i would also have to pair it with a 120A ESC, so i didnt. As i have learned, the 3660 not only isnt a good match for a 60A ESC, its also not a good match for me either. Today, i took my unbroken DHK Hunter, installed an Arrma BLX100 ESC and 3660 3300KV motor, and, did exactly what i dont like doing, and that is breaking things. That combo turned out to be too fast for that vehicle, and caused a multitude of parts to break, in a vehicle that hasnt broken a single part in two years, so, i will never be installing that much speed and power in any vehicle i own ever again, since, one thing i can't stand is to continually break things. On top of that, that much power made it nearly impossible for me to control at times, and also ended up shortening the run time. No thanks, ill stick to my slower set ups, that i am perfectly happy with. In the case of my DHK Hunters, DHK uses a 60A ESC paired with a 3500KV 3650 motor (which is what i had initially installed in them in the first place the last two years) , so that is what i will be reinstalling back into those vehicles,

 

[nauti-tucu]

Today...

 

[500 Mike]

Today...

OUCH ! !

 

[Greywolf74]

Today...

Thats not riiiiiiiight.

 

[biggman100]

Today...

What did you hit?