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The UDIRC Snow Leopard

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Mine cogs a fair bit when going slow in first gear, but it seems to only have happened after the lift and 64mm tires. So my effective gear ratio is super high from the oversized tires.

I went with big tires because I was trying to get more clearance under the differentials.

So if the new pinion is geared lower, that'll correct that.
Lift?
 
I found a set of trx4m shocks to give me more lift and breakover angle, and to fit 64x24 injora swamp claws.

If the new motor and pinion give you a lower crawl ratio, then that'll help with my cogging.

8421.webp



8420.webp
 
I found a set of trx4m shocks to give me more lift and breakover angle, and to fit 64x24 injora swamp claws.

If the new motor and pinion give you a lower crawl ratio, then that'll help with my cogging.

View attachment 257477


View attachment 257476
Those shocks are way too big. You need to go back to stock, use the injora big bores, or get the UDI "upgrade" shocks for this vehicle. I think the hobbyplus shocks for a cr18p would fit well and they are great shocks. Riding that high is going to severely limit its capability. Anytime you replace shocks on something, they should be roughly the same length eye to eye compressed and fully extended. There aren't any other shock mount locations for this thing, so you are really limited to stock length shocks.
I like the rear battery box, is that 3dprinted? I went through a handful of designs before I figured out I could just flip the transmission.
 
Those shocks are way too big. You need to go back to stock, use the injora big bores, or get the UDI "upgrade" shocks for this vehicle. I think the hobbyplus shocks for a cr18p would fit well and they are great shocks. Riding that high is going to severely limit its capability. Anytime you replace shocks on something, they should be roughly the same length eye to eye compressed and fully extended. There aren't any other shock mount locations for this thing, so you are really limited to stock length shocks.
I like the rear battery box, is that 3dprinted? I went through a handful of designs before I figured out I could just flip the transmission.

For what I do, trailing and rock crawling on hikes, I needed more breakover angle. I was getting high centered constantly. Now that's not an issue. If I were building a comp rig then 100% it would need to be lower. It would also need to have the rear stretched for climb stability. After I did that, it had the same wheelbase as my scx24 gladiator, so I returned it to stock to get more jeep TJ proportions.

These are all custom builds for different purposes, and I love the way this one turned out, I just need to solve the cogging. Thanks for your thoughts though!
 
For what I do, trailing and rock crawling on hikes, I needed more breakover angle. I was getting high centered constantly. Now that's not an issue. If I were building a comp rig then 100% it would need to be lower. It would also need to have the rear stretched for climb stability. After I did that, it had the same wheelbase as my scx24 gladiator, so I returned it to stock to get more jeep TJ proportions.

These are all custom builds for different purposes, and I love the way this one turned out, I just need to solve the cogging. Thanks for your thoughts though!
The nanobamXL will solve the issue. Get the 16t pinion because that is all you can use. It’s a fixed motor position. Obviously, there are other 1621 motors out there too.
Let me know how it turns out.
 
The nanobamXL will solve the issue. Get the 16t pinion because that is all you can use. It’s a fixed motor position. Obviously, there are other 1621 motors out there too.
Let me know how it turns out.

Will. Do!

And yea, the rear battery box is 3d printed. I designed it to fit most random Scx24 or fcx24 batteries I have laying around. Here's the link: https://makerworld.com/models/1844438

My next plan is to design an upper cage for the shocks to mount to ask that I don't need the stock body, and give me more shock mount positions. Once I do that, I'll be on the lookout for a 24th scale TJ body for it. A buddy in my full size offroad club has a sweet Inca gold TJ that I'm modeling it after.

I'll grab the motor and we'll see how it does!
 
What do you think about going with the 1900kv motor instead of 3200? With2nd gear being so high, I figure I could get more low end crawling torque with the 1900, and still have good hiking/trailing speed in 2nd.
 
What do you think about going with the 1900kv motor instead of 3200? With2nd gear being so high, I figure I could get more low end crawling torque with the 1900, and still have good hiking/trailing speed in 2nd.
I got the 1900kv, it still has a -way too fast- high gear.
1900kv is the only way to get the low crawl where it needs to be. It is limited to a 16t pinion with the fixed motor position.
When you go to put it in, check this thread for the simple tricks I did to get the pinion gear to clear. At that time, I did not have a pinion gear tool.
This is the way.
 
Yea that looks like what you got. I was curious about the 1900. Well I just ordered the 1900, I'll let you know how it turns out! I what size tires do you have? Maybe once I chuck in the 1900, I'll swap a tire from another rig that matches yours and I'll get a performance measurement and some GPS speed tests.
 
I meant based on your post. You mentioned getting the 3200, but when I went to the mofo site, I saw that they offer a 1900.
If I really did get the 3200, then it has been great. The 1900 would be that much better. Either way, it is a bigger motor so, 3200 would have a lot more torque equaling less cogging
 
Yea they'll probably both work well, I'll report back how the 1900 runs!
All right, motor installed!

Results are interesting. Definitely a lot slower with the 1900, and you can feel the increased torque.

It still cogs occasionally, which I suspect is due to my big 64mm tires, reducing my effective gear ratio. But that's only at ultra slow crawl speed, where you can barely see the rig moving. At normal crawl speed, much better power delivery.

Another effect of the gearing, is with the 1900, 2nd gear struggles. It was doing that with the stock motor too, but it barely accelerates from a standstill. Once it's going it cruises quick enough, but it doesn't like it.

I think I'm going to go down in tire size and test again, probably with a 58 mm tire and see how it does.

I'll let you guys know how it does when I do that.
 
All right, motor installed!

Results are interesting. Definitely a lot slower with the 1900, and you can feel the increased torque.

It still cogs occasionally, which I suspect is due to my big 64mm tires, reducing my effective gear ratio. But that's only at ultra slow crawl speed, where you can barely see the rig moving. At normal crawl speed, much better power delivery.

Another effect of the gearing, is with the 1900, 2nd gear struggles. It was doing that with the stock motor too, but it barely accelerates from a standstill. Once it's going it cruises quick enough, but it doesn't like it.

I think I'm going to go down in tire size and test again, probably with a 58 mm tire and see how it does.

I'll let you guys know how it does when I do that.
I believe the esc has a low punch setting and you see that in high gear.
 
I believe the esc has a low punch setting and you see that in high gear.
Hi there. I'm new in this little guy ucx24 pro. How the thing is going after reduce the tire size? Is worth to change the motor to 1900?
 
I would not go with the 1900, it was dog slow, but didn't help with the cogging. 2nd gear was completely useless as well.
Thank you for your reply. Very important... I think is better maybe to enjoy like it is , but is difficult to don't make some changes. I want to put some grease in the gearbox, but I'm a bit worried. But in general is Amazing. Really great for the price.
 
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