Techno SCT 410.3 build

[Iowa crawler]

So I finally got to run my SCT 410.3 at a race track. I was working Sunday morning when the track announced it was open for practice. The season is over and I missed that. And I have only drives the truck a couple time on pavement to test it out.

It’s 60 deg and sunny so I charged up my battery’s and put all my junk in the truck and raced over to the track. I have only been there twice before to watch the racing and was surprised to find no one there. It’s a big farm and all the corn is down and the windy but warm. So I spent four hours driving around the track. About seven battery packs.

It was a blast . I can’t wait to run around with other people but today was perfect. I just started slow and before long I was putting together some decent laps. Not fast just smooth. The truck is a dream. Bullet proof and just so much more than I’m capable of .

I set up the GoPro and the end of the front straight. I don’t suck that bad at driving I was trying to spray the camera.

 

[Greywolf74]

Lookin good. I'm gonna have to get my a Tekno one of these days

 

[Pat_ranch]

With a fast servo and avc/gyro, teknos are crazy. They just do what you want, when you want them to.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Gyro???? Ooooooo I want that. I did not even know think about that.

Obviously I’ll be googling that but tell me more.

 

[WickedFog]

Gyro???? Ooooooo I want that. I did not even know think about that.

Obviously I’ll be googling that but tell me more.

A friend of mine is big into custom drones and was explaining to me how to take a drone flight controller to power the wheels/brake to level the car on jumps. It was geek talk that went way above my pay grade, but it has been done.

Other than that, some controllers have stability control. Like the Flysky GT3 and GT5 series I have both have an ABS setting that will apply the brakes when it detects the car getting out of control. Some will also turn the front wheels accordingly.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Based on my expertise after one day driving .

The stability in the air would be interesting. I quickly figured out that letting off drops the nose and accelerating pulls the nose up.

The day I was out it was very windy and straight at the jump. First couple packs I would try to go fast over the jump to make it to the other side. If I let off it would land on its nose and tumble. If I stayed on the gas it would fill the body with air and fly straight up. Then land and tumble. So I would just go a little slower and just let off a little. This was good but very slow. Once I figured out the turn at the bottom of the ramp I could carry enough speed to launch the truck but still have enough throttle to push the nose down as it landed on the back side of the following hill.
After about five packs I was able to get it most of the time. Then the problem was staying straight because there is a sharp turn at the base of the ramp.

Can’t wait to go back. Most likely in March of 2022

 

[WickedFog]

Can’t wait to go back. Most likely in March of 2022

It's getting cold as a witches tit here too. I hate Winter. But it's usually when I fire up the 3d printer and get busy on custom builds. The heat from the printer is nicer in the Winter

I still want to build a Tekno. One of these days, if I could stop finding other projects to play with I will grab one.

 

[Pat_ranch]

AVC is the spectrum version of a gyro. My radiolink rx's have a built in gyro that sends adjustments to the servo to keep the rc tracking the direction you're steering. It really cuts down on fish tailing. You need a fast servo for it to work, though. The amazon cheapo's don't quite cut it. The noble I recently picked up has a similar feature, but I haven't even hooked it up to an rc yet. Too busy with other stuff to play lately.
What tx/rx combo are you using for your tekno?

 

[Iowa crawler]

I looked around for another one after last week I was thinking maybe it would be good to have a back up chassis or something.

If you can find one I would grab it. Best I could do was a used one on eBay for 25 bucks more than a new one.

AVC is the spectrum version of a gyro. My radiolink rx's have a built in gyro that sends adjustments to the servo to keep the rc tracking the direction you're steering. It really cuts down on fish tailing. You need a fast servo for it to work, though. The amazon cheapo's don't quite cut it. The noble I recently picked up has a similar feature, but I haven't even hooked it up to an rc yet. Too busy with other stuff to play lately.
What tx/rx combo are you using for your tekno?

Thanks, I did not even know it was a thing. I suspect they are not allowed in racing but I would still like to check them out.

 

[Iowa crawler]

This was the triple jump at center track. First two battery packs I was just driving around the track feeling it out. Then I decided ti set up the camera. I think RC car racing is a mind game as much as personal skill and the vehicle set up. As soon as I started filming my mental game took a dump. Could not concentrate at all. Every turn I was thinking about what it looked like in the video. So I turned the camera off. By the end of the day I was clearing the double sometimes. Never the triple. And another thing. I’m going around the track with just barely touching the throttle. More pinion teeth would make it faster and less would make it quicker. I could barely control it as it is until the battery started to flatten out. The Techno 410 with a Tecan 4300kv motor is fast.

 

[Jerry-Rigged]

Congrats, looks like fun! I have the older SCT410(.1) I have built it as a basher, but love driving it on the track - the racing roots shine thru, even with MT tires...

And another thing. I’m going around the track with just barely touching the throttle.

Pro tip - use your throttle DR or EPA to dial you power back to 60%-80%. Ignore/roll the double/triple. Concentrate on corners- braking, entering and exiting smooth and on the inside line. Once you can go most of a battery without crashing or cornering wide, then you can start to slowly give your self some power. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

More pinion teeth would make it faster and less would make it quicker.

Get a Temp IR gun and use it. Set the pinion so the motor stays under 170f, but above 120f. Then use your radio EPA to set your top speed to something you can control.

Last - no hop-up can beat track time! And Have fun!

 

[WickedFog]

Congrats, looks like fun! I have the older SCT410(.1) I have built it as a basher, but love driving it on the track - the racing roots shine thru, even with MT tires...


Pro tip - use your throttle DR or EPA to dial you power back to 60%-80%. Ignore/roll the double/triple. Concentrate on corners- braking, entering and exiting smooth and on the inside line. Once you can go most of a battery without crashing or cornering wide, then you can start to slowly give your self some power. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Get a Temp IR gun and use it. Set the pinion so the motor stays under 170f, but above 120f. Then use your radio EPA to set your top speed to something you can control.

Last - no hop-up can beat track time! And Have fun!

Very good tips. It makes me wanna go to our local track and play. Too cold. If they ever put an elevator in for the driver's tower, I'll be there We have a killer 1/10 and 1/8 track just a few miles from me.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Congrats, looks like fun! I have the older SCT410(.1) I have built it as a basher, but love driving it on the track - the racing roots shine thru, even with MT tires...


Pro tip - use your throttle DR or EPA to dial you power back to 60%-80%. Ignore/roll the double/triple. Concentrate on corners- braking, entering and exiting smooth and on the inside line. Once you can go most of a battery without crashing or cornering wide, then you can start to slowly give your self some power. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Get a Temp IR gun and use it. Set the pinion so the motor stays under 170f, but above 120f. Then use your radio EPA to set your top speed to something you can control.

Last - no hop-up can beat track time! And Have fun!

Thanks great tips
The first time out was a lot of fun. I have raced a lot of different things and with rc I am mostly into airplanes but picked up cars about two years ago.
It is fun to read and know what to do. But then to actually do it was fantastic. And since no one was around I just did like you suggest try to run a full battery without a crash. The battery I think is about 13-15 min.

I really need to just drive now and get around the other people. I really like the settings I have . Just need to like you said dial back some power for practicing.

The motor temp after looking at the data logging was just above 150 degrees on a 60 deg day. The power is so much fun and the truck is so solid even a beginner can go pretty fast out of the box.

On that note. I set the rig up according to the set up sheets that come with the instructions. And I have all the tools to measure caster , camber and toe on a set up plate. And a set of corner weight scales.

I only added a couple turns of spring tension to the rear springs because it was bottoming out on the smaller bumps to much.

I just can’t wait till spring now.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I got the Sky Rc Gyro and put it in. Simple lexan mount with tape. It seems to be working but I can’t drive it until tomorrow. But giving it a shake the wheels seem to want to point toward the center .

 

[Iowa crawler]

I got out into the back yard. Not a very big space but enough to blast around. With the gyro it seems like it is super solid. Before I would go around about 1/8 throttle and give it slight bursts of speed. And if I gave it to much it would just spin the tires and spin out. Or I would have to do a big sliding turn to avoid the fence. Just would go nuts and out of control if I touched the throttle in such a confined space. With the gyro it feels like the battery is soft. Like when I punch it it just goes. And instead of going wild it just goes forward and when I made a sudden panic turn to avoid the fence the turn was smooth and controlled. Car is way to fast go my back yard but it feels pretty nice with the gyro.

 

[Iowa crawler]

At the track today getting ready for tomorrow’s race. Short corse and buggy. Got a good day of practice in. I need to make some minor adjustments to the buggy.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I’m all charged and packed up to go out tomorrow. I have some tea and water and sandwiches plus batteries charger, radio, parts, tools and my pit set up with a big 12 volt jump box and they have A/C current in the pit areas at the track. I also have a chair and table and can pit in my van if it’s to crowded. I just can’t charge two batteries very fast from the van. I’m super excited to finally race my Techno after two years of waiting. And the buggy is so much fun to drive.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Well I’m wind burned and sand blasted but had a great time at the racetrack. The wind was the theme of the day. Blowing at 25 -30 mph with gust at one point three truck came off a jump and all three blew backwards. Even the spot a pot blew over. But that did not stop us from having a greet day racing. I expected the weather to cut the day short and since it was my first time I only registered in the 4wD short corse class. I am extremely happy with my rig. It is super powerful and handles fantastic. My driving skills are way below the rigs potential. My strategy was to try to ignore the others drivers and drive around without crashing. The strategy paid off better than expected. I got third in two qualifiers and second in the B main. I only missed the A main by 2 seconds. So I’m very happy with the Techno 410. Very solid and consistent. Need a little tuning on the ESC but I’ll be ready for next week.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Action shot.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I read an off hand comment that Techno recommends changing the differential fluid after a short time because the gears take a set and break in. Anyone ever hear this? Ill probably just do it after the next race.