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Team Associated Rival MT10

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RustyUs

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
The Rival MT10... Someone stepping up to the plate... pun intended. :cool:
Now we're talking!
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Horrible pun. I love it. I almost got slapped yesterday for 3 in one sentence! 🤣

Beautiful plate. The only thing missing is some anodizing. I'm assuming the motor gets locked to the plate and the plate swings to adjust the gearing?
I don't own one yet but it is on my radar along with the 2 usa 1s.
 
I've heard great thing about them MT10s. are they actually as bomb-proof as talbot says?
Most videos I have seen of this truck make it look like a super awesome truck. I think the A arms are the only weak point and RPM makes a set for them. Other than that I've been sold on one for a while now. Just need to recover some funds and I'll be picking one up.
 
Two MT10 in my RC stable. One bone stock; one mod built up from a slider chassis. Both excellent platforms in both 2s and 3s configuration.

Motor plate looks like a smart upgrade. Thicker than standard AE? Is that an install issue for the upgrade plate? Rather skeptical of AE's pinning the lower part of the motor plate to the chassis for swivel adjust of plate for pinion install and gear mesh adjust. Good as long as it's not worn but likely vulnerable to movement once it wears in. So far, so good though.

Good seeing aftermarket movement offering upgrades to the MT10.
 
The motor plate doesn't move much, so wearing one enough to create slop would likely take some time.

I like seeing after-market parts show up for these models too.
 
I had to use a standard M3 washer as a 0.6 mm shim because the gap in the chassis for the motor plate hook was that much oversized. But even if they did not change the thickness of the plate a better material would improve durability to begin with, as well as not machining the chamfers of the flat head screws too deep.

The original motor plate isn’t terribly weak but it can bend in very rough use. Even a slight difference in strength could mean the part no longer fails.

I’ve drawn some sketches and I think you could make a motor plate from a single piece with 6 mm thickness instead of two that are 3 mm each. The only challenge I can see is how to shape the plate to prevent dirt getting into the center gearbox while allowing a range of adjustment for different pinion sizes.

Team Associated is said to have changed the lower suspension arm material to something that is stronger and not as hard so the current models should no longer snap the arms that easily. People will probably list it as a weak point of these trucks for a long time to come but to my understanding it has been addressed.

I bought a set of RPM arms for mine but they are too flexy to use on a track unless the surface is very loose. When you have medium grip or more, the original arms perform better in my opinion. The RPM arms are great for bashing, though.
 
Diff Gasket

Next time anyone has their Rival diff out, maybe measure (center to center) the distance of the screws. Could there be a "close enough" match to another platform's gasket a person can use/buy to have on hand? I'm pretty sure I asked the same on Rival MT10 group, but no one wanted help 🤷‍♂️.
 
Diff Gaskets
Hey, Rusty. Measured 18mm on both FR/RR and Ctr/Spur gaskets. Hope this helps.

May have to resort to making your own out of brown paper. Had to do that back in the day. -AC

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Thanks for that measurement!

I measure Mugen Seki diff gaskets (MUGC0257) at 17.98mm center to center. I've used those gaskets for my Team Associated RC8.2eFT's diffs for years. The stock paper gaskets that Associated used in their RC8 platforms were so very fragile 🤮. I bet Tekno's EB/ET48 diff gaskets (I don't have any at the moment to measure) are 18mm center to center as well as the Mugen Seki gaskets lines up perfectly with Tekno's EB/ET48 2.0 diff case.
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Prior to running todays inaugural ARA RC Headwaters Rally with the MT10 (tagged MT10RS now), use two lengths of 2" wide duct tape to form fenderwells to cut down on the grass and pine needles that always pack the chassis after a run. Worked great to deflect the throw-off from the front tires. Now will fabricate a pair out of Lexan scrap and affix to the fore part of the chassis.

Image is after 1st stage run of the rally and it stayed that clear of all the nasty stuff for the next two stages as well. Nothing succeeds like success.

Cheers. -AC

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Prior to running todays inaugural ARA RC Headwaters Rally with the MT10 (tagged MT10RS now), use two lengths of 2" wide duct tape to form fenderwells to cut down on the grass and pine needles that always pack the chassis after a run. Worked great to deflect the throw-off from the front tires. Now will fabricate a pair out of Lexan scrap and affix to the fore part of the chassis.

Image is after 1st stage run of the rally and it stayed that clear of all the nasty stuff for the next two stages as well. Nothing succeeds like success.

Cheers. -AC

View attachment 274083
If it works, it works. That's awesome. :cool: :thumbs-up:
 
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