-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
Build Showcase Team Associated RC10T4.2FT ("We Are" ST)
- Thread starter RustyUs
- Start date
A stadium truck that will be with me until...
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
RustyUs
Hardcore RCTalk User
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Military Veteran
Build Thread Contributor
RC Showcase: 8
- Messages
- 4,135
- Reaction score
- 7,406
- Points
- 1,245
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Thread starter
- #22
Busy with Ball Diff
Dirt wise, the outside looks way worse than the inside (sorry, I didn't get that shot).
Cleaning my balls...
As long as I can get a ball diff to feel smooth and the rings are thick enough to put pressure on... I'll reuse diff rings over and over again.
To reuse the diff rings, I'll first flip them over. After both sides of the rings developed grooves, things get more involved.
Let's get rid of those grooves, as best we can, that the tungsten carbide balls created on the diff rings.
I start doing figure 8s on 220 grit sandpaper... on a flat surface of course. The diff ring can be held down by diff outdrive....
Gooey black grease on thrust balls...
Dirt wise, the outside looks way worse than the inside (sorry, I didn't get that shot).
Cleaning my balls...
As long as I can get a ball diff to feel smooth and the rings are thick enough to put pressure on... I'll reuse diff rings over and over again.
To reuse the diff rings, I'll first flip them over. After both sides of the rings developed grooves, things get more involved.
Let's get rid of those grooves, as best we can, that the tungsten carbide balls created on the diff rings.
I start doing figure 8s on 220 grit sandpaper... on a flat surface of course. The diff ring can be held down by diff outdrive....
Gooey black grease on thrust balls...
Oooh using the out drive to hold the ring for sanding is genius.
RustyUs
Hardcore RCTalk User
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Military Veteran
Build Thread Contributor
RC Showcase: 8
- Messages
- 4,135
- Reaction score
- 7,406
- Points
- 1,245
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Thread starter
- #24
I bottom out the thrust bolt's spring, and then I back off a 1/16th of a turn.
Slip the outdrives onto diff building tool (or use two drivers) to test the resistance. The diff gear should be VERY hard to turn using only thumb/index fingers.
New bearings? May as well since I put new bearings everywhere else.
I'll clean/regrease (yes, I do that
) old bearings at a later time when I have many sets to do.
Just one dab of diff lube on the teeth...
I was not a fan of Loctite's first attempt at threadlocker in stick form
it was terrible . Vibra-TITE's gel to the rescue! It's been my go-to stuff for many years, but the gel is almost all gone and I see Loctite put out an improved stick formula. Let's give it a whirl...
Somewhere along the way I reduced the power to the tranny and never bothered to change the slipper setup. The VTS slipper (variable torque) with 3 pads is just overkill for a 17.5T motor. I have normal V2 slipper hubs that I was saving for a rainy day build, but I may go ahead and slap them on this T4.
Slip the outdrives onto diff building tool (or use two drivers) to test the resistance. The diff gear should be VERY hard to turn using only thumb/index fingers.
New bearings? May as well since I put new bearings everywhere else.
I'll clean/regrease (yes, I do that
) old bearings at a later time when I have many sets to do.Just one dab of diff lube on the teeth...
I was not a fan of Loctite's first attempt at threadlocker in stick form
it was terrible . Vibra-TITE's gel to the rescue! It's been my go-to stuff for many years, but the gel is almost all gone and I see Loctite put out an improved stick formula. Let's give it a whirl...Somewhere along the way I reduced the power to the tranny and never bothered to change the slipper setup. The VTS slipper (variable torque) with 3 pads is just overkill for a 17.5T motor. I have normal V2 slipper hubs that I was saving for a rainy day build, but I may go ahead and slap them on this T4.
What's the diff rebuild tool you're using there?
RustyUs
Hardcore RCTalk User
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Military Veteran
Build Thread Contributor
RC Showcase: 8
- Messages
- 4,135
- Reaction score
- 7,406
- Points
- 1,245
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Thread starter
- #26
It's the Racers Edge 7030 Differential Building Tool. 1/10 scale and 1/8 scale diff holders. Probably cost 50¢ to make back in the day. It came with a used SC10 I bought. Took me awhile to figure out what the cutout was for.
Last edited:
RustyUs
Hardcore RCTalk User
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Military Veteran
Build Thread Contributor
RC Showcase: 8
- Messages
- 4,135
- Reaction score
- 7,406
- Points
- 1,245
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Thread starter
- #27
Let's not forget the magical piece this time Rusty...
17 grams of greatness...
Shhh Hot Pink gel fingernail polish as a plastic safe threadlocker on the rear screws that secure the bottoms of the shocks. Especially the right side screw. That one has more of a tendency to loosen as the suspension arm articulates.
As clean as it's going to get for this year.
17 grams of greatness...
Shhh
Hot Pink gel fingernail polish as a plastic safe threadlocker on the rear screws that secure the bottoms of the shocks. Especially the right side screw. That one has more of a tendency to loosen as the suspension arm articulates.As clean as it's going to get for this year.
Last edited:
Similar threads
