Team Associated MT10 and upgrades

[ronnyc00t]

Do you find that it's incredibly difficult to keep the damn thing going straight ? Lol. I've just bought a bearing kit for mine as when I started digging into it a bit after a hard landing made it grumpy lol some of them were non existent and down to the races only so I'm hoping it helps alot. But I'm just curious if yours is hard to keep straight so I might be able to start thinking ahead of what else might need to be ordered for it lol

Mate compared to my kagama is mental. Yes it is. Cranky little bugger but love it. I still recon if you could get slightly harder compound tyres to limit the ballooning just a tiny bit would make a big difference. Has anyone played with slightly bigger tyres? I know it would change the ratios a little but thought it may dial down the torque a tiny bit and make it abit more,,,,, um not as skatey ?

 

[Lumikko]

Difficulties going straight when on the throttle may indicate that the center and/or rear diff fluid is too thick.

The MT10, like its SCT counterpart the Pro4 SC10, has an odd pro-squat geometry in the rear and it causes the rear to have less bite when accelerating. You can flip the C-block (free and reversible mod) or buy some Tekno EB410 pills (cheap, and reversible as well) to adjust the geometry.

Flipping the C-block allows you to run softer rear springs to gain even better rear grip to prevent spinning out all the time.

 

[daveovington]

Wear and Tear


Parts wearing down/wallowing out, even if your Rival MT10 is not one of the first production runs, the bigger tires and running environment may come into play with a person's OCD quicker than a RC with smaller tires. Add up all the slop from each of the steering's pivot points, and it can surely be enough to raise concern. Even with new pivot balls, rod ends/ball cups, and servo... there will be some play in the steering. It's completely normal IMO.

For sure, agree 100 percent, but this thing is all over the place. I try to line it up to take a jump and I'm lucky to hit the ramp square maybe 1 out of every 4 or 5 runs at it lol. Something more than normal slop going on with it lol. I wish it was just normal play

 

[daveovington]

Also part of the bearing kit includes the four bearings in the steering linkage so that should probably make a difference too. I hope

 

[daveovington]

Ty i also have an og sc10. 1 complete and another chassis and most of the parts to put another one together but I'm just keeping the parts for the complete one cause parts are obsolete for it and really hard to find and expensive when you do find them

Difficulties going straight when on the throttle may indicate that the center and/or rear diff fluid is too thick.

The MT10, like its SCT counterpart the Pro4 SC10, has an odd pro-squat geometry in the rear and it causes the rear to have less bite when accelerating. You can flip the C-block (free and reversible mod) or buy some Tekno EB410 pills (cheap, and reversible as well) to adjust the geometry.

Flipping the C-block allows you to run softer rear springs to gain even better rear grip to prevent spinning out all the time.

 

[desmobob]

installed fan and ally heat sink to motor,

I want to add a heat sink, at least. What is the diameter of the stock motor? Which heat sink did you choose?

Thanks for any info,
Bob

 

[9x19]

I want to add a heat sink, at least. What is the diameter of the stock motor? Which heat sink did you choose?

Thanks for any info,
Bob

The 3300kv motor that comes stock in the brushless MT10 has a 36mm diameter can.

 

[desmobob]

The 3300kv motor that comes stock in the brushless MT10 has a 36mm diameter can.

Thanks very much.