Tamiya f350 high-lift build - completed!

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I think the GT5 actually uses channel 3 to control the rear steer. It's the push button. I am not positive though, because it's been a few years since I set mine up. And I no longer have the truck I set it up on as 4ws.

What you do is press the button to switch from front steer to switch to 4ws. Press it again and it goes to crab steer. Press again and it goes back to front steer... I think 😉
 
I can't get used to seeing those Phillips heads. Can't wait to see her with the body in place. :thumbs-up:
That's a Tamiya tradition! And they aren't just regular Phillip's heads. They are Japanese Phillip's. Yes, there is a difference. There is a whole market for Japanese Phillip's screwdrivers believe it or not.
 
If I build mine, I'm using scale bolts. I also can't stand it.
One reason I stuck with the Tamiya philips screws was because they're treated some way that I'm pretty sure they won't rust. All of the hex screws I keep are from Arrma products, and the heads of these rust when a cloud passes by. There's always the stainless option, which I'm sure would be fine on a crawler, but when you actually count how many screws of different sizes and shapes you need, switching would have been a whole new hobby adventure.
 
...switching would have been a whole new hobby adventure.
That made me crack a rib laughing. Sending you a doctor's bill 🤬😜

From my 3d printing hobby, guitar building, RC stuff, and everything else I have been into, I have accumulated a hardware store in my apartment. When you get to that point, it stops looking like a hobby 😜
 
That made me crack a rib laughing. Sending you a doctor's bill 🤬😜

From my 3d printing hobby, guitar building, RC stuff, and everything else I have been into, I have accumulated a hardware store in my apartment. When you get to that point, it stops looking like a hobby 😜
or when your rc work bench starts to look like a hobby store😮 (fyi, it's much worse now)


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One reason I stuck with the Tamiya philips screws was because they're treated some way that I'm pretty sure they won't rust. All of the hex screws I keep are from Arrma products, and the heads of these rust when a cloud passes by. There's always the stainless option, which I'm sure would be fine on a crawler, but when you actually count how many screws of different sizes and shapes you need, switching would have been a whole new hobby adventure.
My axial and traxxas have the same problem. I went stainless, and never rounded so many screws in a short time.
 
So the body is about 50% painted and should be complete sometime this week. The painter is doing a multi coat two tone paint job with a lot of masking and wet sanding along the way. Gonna be epic. I decided to change up the wheels with some aluminum bead locks I found on Amazon. Learned a big lesson this week about higher end bead locks. When you're bead locks have a metal insert that goes inside the tire, warm up the tires before trying to install them. In the end, my hands generated enough heat (mostly because I was angry and my body's temperature peaked) to get the stock tires on the new wheels. Love the deep dish look and the color is definitely a hint to the final scheme. I also picke up a couple of 2s Genss Ace lipos that have rounded corners instead of the typical square type. You can see in the photo that Tamiya design the battery holder for the common NimH shaped battery, and finding a lipo took some time. Thats why I bought two.
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Wheels look good, if you really want to have fun with bead locks, put together a set for an scx24, whole lotta itty bitty screws. Lookin' forward to seeing the new paintjob!
 
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