Tacon Valor/LC Racing EMB-TGH

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That truggy looks pretty good with the big block tires.
 
I got sick of the stock rod ends getting filled with dirt all of the time, so I set out on a mission to find a better solution.
I started with 1 package of Rpm heavy duty rod ends and 2 packages of Team Associated ball studs but the threads on them are a bit too long and they must be trimmed down in the steering blocks and ackerman plate the ones going into the shock towers, caster blocks and rear axle carriers do not interfere with anything so they do not need trimming. The reason I changed the ball studs to Team Associated ball studs is because the Rpm rod ends would bind up on the stock ball studs.
2 of the the rod ends that connect to the shock tower needed to be trimmed to clear the sway bar mounts.
Finished product works great, no binding or sticking, feels much better than the stock setup and no more dirt gets in them. I need to order more so I can do the buggy.
Also was experimenting with some balloons as shock covers, might try red instead.
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Don't just Bash, Blast your wallet!
These are super cheap to buy and maintain, about $200 for the rtr, the most expensive stock non electric or body part is about $19. Not a lot of breakages on these guys either the brushed MT I broke the plastic diff output on the front gearbox and the screw came off the diff pinion gear and destroyed my diff crown gear on my truggy, my fault I had a bad tube of loctite when assembling the kit. Other than upgrading the brushed Valor to brushless specs I haven't really had to buy much in parts.
 
I haven’t used mine in a looooong time. My stock servo took a crap and I’m waiting for the long promised floating servo mounts
 
@Slick2500 hey question for ya if you don’t mind, I started putting together my truggy kit today. I got everything put together for the front end. I tested rotation by rolling the axles in my fingers, and the input and crown gear would bind slightly in a certain spot. I pulled the diff apart, with those pesky Phillips screws, and the only thing I could see was that diff cover may not be seating flush to the cup causing the crown gear to be slightly crooked. With the cover off I rotated the axles and tried different things to see it the gear is not straight. Both diffs seems to have a ever so slight wobble in the gear. Did you have any problems with the the diffs? Sorry for the novel, but figured it’d be easier to give you a synopsis of what I’ve done, instead of going back and forth.
 
@Slick2500 hey question for ya if you don’t mind, I started putting together my truggy kit today. I got everything put together for the front end. I tested rotation by rolling the axles in my fingers, and the input and crown gear would bind slightly in a certain spot. I pulled the diff apart, with those pesky Phillips screws, and the only thing I could see was that diff cover may not be seating flush to the cup causing the crown gear to be slightly crooked. With the cover off I rotated the axles and tried different things to see it the gear is not straight. Both diffs seems to have a ever so slight wobble in the gear. Did you have any problems with the the diffs? Sorry for the novel, but figured it’d be easier to give you a synopsis of what I’ve done, instead of going back and forth.
Oh yeah, you have to make sure that all the screws are tightened evenly otherwise the diff spins out of round. If it binds in one spot loosen the screw a little bit at a time until it no longer binds.
The only problem I had was my pinion gear came off the output shaft and ate the crown gear. I now have them red loctited on.
 
Hey @Slick2500 i thought it would be better to continue my questions here rather than the Arrma forum.

So, what’s the deal with Tacon/LC? Are they the same company? Same models with different names? If they’re different, how are they different? I’m torn between the Tacon Balwark and Tacon Valor Brushless models and the LC Racing equivalents. I really like LC truggy kit and would probably go that route. Would a 3650/3930kv fit? I have the below combo that I can throw in if so. If not, it may better to just buy the ARTR version because the price is pretty good considering I would need to buy a power system.

What is the 15% off Nitro RCX coupon code?

Sorry for all the questions but like in your OP, today is my birthday and I want to get one of these. I’ve narrowed it down. I’ve also thought about the Hobao Hyper TT and using the Hobbystar combo in it. What do you think? Would that be a better option over the LC?

Thanks in advance!

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-waterproof-60a-brushless-sensorless-esc.html

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-3650-brushless-sensorless-motor.html
 
Took a Tacon Bulwark, and rammed an Arrma BLX system in it (after destroying my Typhon 3S). Thing rips. These little truggies are hella fun for sure.
 
Keep trying to but says file is too large, even just using camera function from this thread. I swapped all the BLX electronics but not the motor fyi. That can is way too big to fit. Getting a dynamite 5000mah 75C hate pack to fit was tricky enough. Lol
 
I cleaned up my wiring and moved the ESC from the back to the front.

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I just ordered a Bulwark brushless. Any suggestions on a 2S battery to run?
 
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