• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Switching to 30% nitro

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jman214

RCTalk Member
Messages
32
Reaction score
4
Points
18
The mom and pops store I go to get nitro is now only has 30% nitro for now. I usually run 20% is it ok for me to switch and run the 30? Hobbytown is 120 miles away and I'm not driving that far for nitro. Is there anything I would have to do different when running this fuel

I'll be putting it in a sh.28 engine
 
The mom and pops store I go to get nitro is now only has 30% nitro for now. I usually run 20% is it ok for me to switch and run the 30? Hobbytown is 120 miles away and I'm not driving that far for nitro. Is there anything I would have to do different when running this fuel

I'll be putting it in a sh.28 engine

I wouldn't think so ,may have to retune a little ,an monitor the temps!
I've always ran 30% ,but one time I tried 20% right before the 30% that I'm on now ,
An none of my engines liked it ,it was like going from nitro to water!...:p
 
I only run 30/10 in everything. .20 .25 .28 .32. I did have to go to a cooler plug in the Kyosho .25s. They would only last 2-3 tanks.
 
I went from 20 to 33%, the main concern is retune, you need to start out a 1/4 turn rich then dial it in from there, CCW that's what I did and I'm very happy with the power pick up with just a fuel swap.
 
Retune for sure and DEF monitor your temps! Make sure that the fuel has good lubrication properties.
The only time I have heard of changing to 30 was in a deal motor to begin with and would have likely popped either 20 or 30%. I have read tho, that you do not want to flip flop between the 2. If you make the change, plan on staying with it.
 
You will still need to heat cycle the engine because of the hotter fuel.
 
You will still need to heat cycle the engine because of the hotter fuel.

Really,my engines never seen a heat cycle ,nor do I own a temp gauge ,an my engines are still running strong
after 10 years!

Honestly that stuff has only been out for the past 12 years!

The secret is to never over heat , which can be monitored by the touch of the hand!
An experienced person will know that!
 
All you will notice is that your engines start easier and run better.
Damn, I've always ran 30% But now I'm,going to run 20-25% because I'm,going for longevity, usually more oil in lower nitro % from what I understand.

But I was hoping it will,idle better with 20%, easier to detonate I was thinking?
 
30% has always idled better for me and the tune is way more consistent and burns so much cleaner.
 
30 % is better for oil ratio content!
Some racers will take or add shims to accommodate the high nitro an change the ignition timiming!

Along with a different rating glo-plug.
 
Lots of bad info on here, don't believe everything said. First a higher nitro will give cooler run temps, and more power for sure, but at the cost of lubrication. But I've found its not really the amount of oil in the fuel, its the quality. VP power master is great at 9% oil, Byron's is great at 11%. Switching often I wouldn't recommend, but if you do switch just be easy for the first tank and let the block get used to the new fuel and heat cycle after the tank.
 
I've run byrons 2500 fuel for years, 25% nitro/11% oil and all my engines really like it. I used to always run 20% trinity monster power (something like that name), but when I got my first LRP28, the manual suggested 25%. I ran it in my other engines and they did well too. So, instead of keeping 2 types of fuel around, I just switched.

Going from 20% to 30%, as mentioned, you will need to retune and possibly get a cooler plug. I don't know why someone mentioned running break-in tanks... just take the first tank or so easy while you get it dialed in and you should be fine.
 
I actually mentioned the break in process due to a manufacturer recommending it. I THINK it was OS's side that I read it on. I will post a link If I find it. I have just been up to my eyeballs in getting my 1:1 straight. I don't have so much time as usual... Anyways, I am not suggesting it because I think it's a good idea on my own, rather that I read it. Since I haven't switched %'s, just fuel brands, I don't have direct experience. Anyways, I'm sure the switch will have the rig kicking and screaming with new life. When I start getting close to low compression etc, I'll prob kick mine up to 30% too... Just to go out with a BANG!!!
 
I wonder if they mention it more so the user resets to break-in rich settings, then retunes more so than "breaking in" the engine again. Just kind of a short way to tell a user to start over with the tuning.
 
As long as you tune your engine properly and don't let it run too lean, you're good to go. Byrons make good fuel, from what I've heard- however over here it is very expensive and have yet to try it for myself.
 
The endless rambling of this self serving idiot have been removed for the protection of our faithful members.
Put away your full body condoms. You've been protected by our staff.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top