Storm SUT for small track racing

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scottm

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Scottsdale AZ
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I am working on a Storm SUT for racing at my local track, Scottsdale RC Speedway in scottsdale az. It is best known for the Cactus Classic every year in March. Anyway, it is a small track and they don't allow engines bigger than .18. So the Monster truck class consists entirely of Revos with 15s and 18s. From watching them, I figure a truggy (monster convered buggy) will have some advantages, like lower center of gravety and no wheelies thanks to the center diff.

I wanted to race in the monster class because my rc10gt frustrates me. But I like to be different, plus I seem to like to beat my head against the wall and do everything the hard way. So I am building an sut with an os 18. It may sound simple enough, but it has turned out to be a lot of work. I am having to make basically everything, from the exhaust elbow to engine mounts to the spur gear.

I bought the truck as a rolling chassis from a friend, then I ordered the OS TZ 18 here. This engine has the pilot shaft and slide carb I want for my 1/8 scale installation, plus it makes sick power, 2.2 hp occording to rc car action. I set the car up with a good radio - novak xxtra synth rx with an Airtronics 94358 steering and jr z590 throttle servo; and slapped in a Picco 26 and a set of bow tie 40's to drive it while waiting for the os. It worked great, it corners and jumps better than my regular storm.

The main problem was its geared too tall. The big 26 could pull it around, but the 18 would not be happy. So I took it all apart to fit a larger spur and install the tz18. Here it is after about 12 hours of work in the machine shop.

sut1.jpg


The first step was to take apart the center diff. There is no spur bigger than the 54t the sut comes with, so I made a 60t fit the stock diff. We made some laser-cut 60t gears last year while playing with a full-custom rc truggy, something that may or may not ever become an rc solutions product. I cut off the outer part of the stock gear in the lathe, and welded the 60t gear to the stock gear hub. You can see a brass colored weld bead right in the middle of the picture:

sut2.jpg


I raised the center diff with spacers about 8 mm high. The sut comes with 3 mm spacers but its not enough. You can also see I had to bend the rear brake rod up to clear the spur.

I made engine mounts next, a job that turned into a 3 hour chore because I made the first set too short!

sut3.jpg


While I was driving it with the 26, I broke two proline 40 wheels with the tmaxx size drive hexes. The fast revo guys are using proline 23mm hex drive wheels. There arent any for the sut of course, so I bought a set for a savage and made them work. I machined out the back of the hexes and made new spacers to match the sut wheel extender length, and welded them together. hopefully this will end wheel problems:

sut4.jpg


Its getting close but there is still some work to do. I could not find an exhaust elbow to fit the 18 spout that turns 180° for a side pipe. So I need to make an insert to go onto a 21 elbow and mate up to the spout. Then I need to raise my throttle servo up to meet the brake rods on the tall center diff. i will keep posting pics asthe work is done. Look out Revo bitches!
 
thats a sick truggy keep up the good work. i can't to see it done!!!
 
nice work on the hexes. i use ofna 15mm length (17mm hex) or storm offset hubs (get truck a lil narrower for small tracks).

keep it up and if poss keep me posted. another GS junkie.

SUTW4.jpg


-Ult
 
UltegraSTI, what type of car is that?
 
o, whoops. Thought that was an electric truck. No need to respond now. Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
hehe, np, a SUT Pro. have that and a Storm Pro. so i like to keep up w/what this guy is doin, very impressive.

-Ult
 
Thanks guys. Ultegra, I have 2 regular storms so getting the sut made more sense than getting a revo and having to buy a ton more spare parts. Also, the new extenders I made are .100" (3mm) shorter per side than the stock ones, precisely for better cornering on the tight track. Also Ult, do you have problems with torque steer? With the 26 in it, it wandered a lot under power. So I put 7,000 wt oil in the center and rear diff - will that help?

Well, I sould have gone home and watered trees or something, but I stayed at the shop and worked some more. I made a bushing for the 1/8 scale exhaust elbow and glued it in with silicone sealant. I found this old franken-pipe left over from a cybermaxx project about 3 years ago and it fits perfectly now:

sut5.jpg


Then I made spacers to raise the servo up to match the raised center diff. The linkage fits up perfectly:

sut6.jpg


Whew, I think all the machine work is finally done. Tomorrow night I will mount the tires and wheels and start breaking it in by the heat cycle method. I have some money in this thing now, so I want it to last a long time.
 
i use dynamite linkages on the SUT pro, and a combination of dynamite and stock linkages on the storm.

7 might be a lil much out back, but u need more than 7 in the center!!!!

start out 10/30/3 and work from there. 0 toe like book suggests can make it walk a lil. but get those diffs up where they need to be.

-Ult
 
send garen @ GS a line w/some of these pix and pick his brain on the SUT he's workin on (and racing i believe) w/a smallblock in it. think he has some1's .15 in his.

-Ult
 
Cool, thanks. 10K in the front? It pushes under power already, so I thought you want it light up front. Also, 30k in the center sounds stiff too.
 
i know this isnt really about rc, scottn but how many megapixels is your digital camera? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
I have the fronts toed out 1/2° anmd the backs toed in the stock amount. Do you mean the fronts should be toed 0?
 
rhm, I used a 1.3 mp panasonic set at vga, or 640x480, which is only .307 mp.
 
are the fronts unloadin in the turns? heck that .18 is strong. if u want to try and start at 10k, i wouldnt go lighter. if ur power gets unloaded to the front, u need to get thicker in the center. dependin on turning issue (also better handled by susp tuning), best to play in the rear the most (can't believe i just said that lol).

-Ult
 
I'm not a big fan of the rear end, but at least its easy to get to, lol! I'll run it as it is for breakin, then go to the lhs for more oil. I have been fighting understeer on my other storms for a while, so I'm ready to try the thick sheit.
 
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How are you going to start the engine? Bump starter?? I dont see a hole in the chassis...
 
yeah its a bump start engine and a normal 1/8 scale storm buggy chassis.
 
hey, just wondering. What is a bump start? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
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