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still can't get it running right...

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clemsonhacker

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Ok i bought a used tmaxx 2.5 a few months back. the ruck had set up for about a year... i changed the fuel and plug. it fired right up and i drove about 2 tanks of fuel. had a great time.but after a while it would bog and cut off. well showing off for my wife i hit our outside fire pit and broke a bulkhead... well i fixed that and fig i would try and retune it(bad mistake). i ended up stripping the idle screw and replaceed the carb... well now i can't get it to crank and stay running for more than a min. to save my life. when it does start and i try to drive it it will run great for a min and then start bogging and cut off... I'm so tired of this thing ... i need some help. should i just take it to the LHS?
 
Ok i bought a used tmaxx 2.5 a few months back. the ruck had set up for about a year... i changed the fuel and plug. it fired right up and i drove about 2 tanks of fuel. had a great time.but after a while it would bog and cut off.

My guess is the piston & sleeve are done. A worn piston/sleeve will start up no problem but after it heats up it will bog and flame out (die out).

i had the same problem cuz of a rich mixture. try leaning it out a bit and see how it works


A rich mixture will run rough from the start, it won't get worst as it runs.
 
It could also be lean. As the engine heats up it leans itself out. Before you go spending money on a new piston and sleeve try richening it.
 
Could be that you cracked your fuel tank in the impact. I know it's a long shot, but dismount the tank, and pressure test it by putting it under water and blowing through the lines. If you see bubbles, replace it. If it has the primer on it, you may want to replace it as well. The primer is a known air-leak spot.

Also, you could observe the fuel line as the engine is running (if it'll start). If you see bubbles in the line, you have an air leak in the tank.
 
i can see small air bubbles from time to time in the tank

I've tried to richen it, lean it, everything...feels and sounds like there is good compression...ill try a new fuel tank first then ill take the shotgun out to this thing...
 
try from factory settings then run half tank thro it if is running alright then turn the riching screw in bout halfthen run for a bit so the motor gets the feel of the new setting

factory setings are

riching screw all the way in back out full 4 turns

idle screw (end on the throtle arm) all the way in then 2.1/2 out

hops this help ya

may have to turn the richining screw in till its 3.1/2 out since the motor been broke in
 
Keep us posted. It's not open season on them yet. It's being stubborn because it's in rut. You need the proper mix of fuel and pheromones. Stay with it, and post back.
 
if a glow plug lights up its still good right...b/c this thing keeps wetting the plugs bad i try to dry them and reuse... could crappy plugs cause me not to be able to crank it... i can't even get it to crank now....oh yea i took the cooling head off to check the piston and it had a real dark spot in the middle


yea i have that and have read it 10 times .... my wife is tired of seeing it
 
It sounds too rich. Go 3 1/2 turns on the HSN. Start with the LSN flush, then turn it in 1/4 turn and try it.
Are you using a separate igniter or the wire from the EZ start?
You can always get a hotter glow with the separate heater.
 
Once the EZ start Batt starts to run down from spinning the starter, you not only get a slower spin, but less juice to the plug. It's always a good idea to get rid of the blue wire and use a separate igniter. That way you will always know you have a good hot plug. It also allows you to burn oil off the filament and let it stay on once it starts, till you get it adjusted. That's something you can't do when using the blue lead.
Anyway, start with a full charge on it, set it to what I recommended in the previous post, then let us know what it's doing. I need to know what it does at that setting, before you can change anything else.
 
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