Spur gear/clutch bell alignment.

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Hojaz

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Hi everyone

I was looking over my buggy today before breaking it in. Its a brand new Neo 3 RTR version.
I noticed that the Spur and clutch didnt seem to be in a straight line with each other, the spur is overlapping a little from the clutch bell and i think it looks wrong, its not much but still a little bit... I'm guessing this could eat up my gears quicker than it should?
I took some photos for u guys to see.

Thanks
Hojaz
 
This buggy?
https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...wd-.21-nitro-buggy-rtr-orange/KYO33012T3.html

Doesn't appear the engine mount or engine mount plates allow to slide the engine forward/back, so you would have to pull the flywheel, remove shims from the end and put some behind the flywheel. The ones from the end won't fit behind the flywheel though, they will be larger OD.

https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/IF108B-Engine-Mount_p_2894.html
https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/IF290-Engine-Mount-Platet40LR_p_25369.html

I'd agree though, the bell teeth should fully engage the spur teeth. Usually, buggies run steel spurs that are thinner than the CB teeth, so there's a bit of wiggle room. Your spur appears to be plastic though. It's wide... might hold up ok as is... but if it were mine, I'd reshim the flywheel. Sometimes you can shim the bell out by putting a shim on before the rear bearing and the clutch still has full contact on the bell, but you won't be able to tell until you have the bell off to see.
 
This buggy?
https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...wd-.21-nitro-buggy-rtr-orange/KYO33012T3.html

Doesn't appear the engine mount or engine mount plates allow to slide the engine forward/back, so you would have to pull the flywheel, remove shims from the end and put some behind the flywheel. The ones from the end won't fit behind the flywheel though, they will be larger OD.

https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/IF108B-Engine-Mount_p_2894.html
https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/IF290-Engine-Mount-Platet40LR_p_25369.html

I'd agree though, the bell teeth should fully engage the spur teeth. Usually, buggies run steel spurs that are thinner than the CB teeth, so there's a bit of wiggle room. Your spur appears to be plastic though. It's wide... might hold up ok as is... but if it were mine, I'd reshim the flywheel. Sometimes you can shim the bell out by putting a shim on before the rear bearing and the clutch still has full contact on the bell, but you won't be able to tell until you have the bell off to see.
Yes, the inferno neo 3!

I dont know about the mount or plates if you can slide it, but i will look that up! (I'm new to nitro and this is my first.)

Mine is plastic like you said, could replace it though to a steel spur but i have read about people that advise not to use steel. I dunno.

Is it easier to reshim rather than buy som new mountingplates that u could slide? (If i can't slide it as it is).
 
Yes, the inferno neo 3!

I dont know about the mount or plates if you can slide it, but i will look that up! (I'm new to nitro and this is my first.)

Mine is plastic like you said, could replace it though to a steel spur but i have read about people that advise not to use steel. I dunno.

Is it easier to reshim rather than buy som new mountingplates that u could slide? (If i can't slide it as it is).
No, I was saying you can't slide it. I posted links to the engine mount and engine mount plates. It will slide left to right if you want to increase/decrease the bell tooth count, but you can't slide it forward/back. So your only real option is to adjust the shims on the bell if you can and on the flywheel if you have to.

Most 1/8th buggies run steel spurs and they all do fine, but you have to have a hardened bell to match it or it will chew it up. I don't know much about your kyosho, just past experience from buggy's I've had.
 
No, I was saying you can't slide it. I posted links to the engine mount and engine mount plates. It will slide left to right if you want to increase/decrease the bell tooth count, but you can't slide it forward/back. So your only real option is to adjust the shims on the bell if you can and on the flywheel if you have to.

Most 1/8th buggies run steel spurs and they all do fine, but you have to have a hardened bell to match it or it will chew it up. I don't know much about your kyosho, just past experience from buggy's I've had.
Oh, sorry.. i was tired last night lol.
How do i know what shims to use for the bell or flywheel?
And were can i get a hardened bell for this? Not sure what type of bell there is on the car now tbh.

I also noticed that the spur gear can wiggle a little towards the front and back of car, making the alignment a little bit better if i push it with my finger. Dont know if this is just a sign of bad quality or if something is not tightened enough....
 
Oh, sorry.. i was tired last night lol.
How do i know what shims to use for the bell or flywheel?
And were can i get a hardened bell for this? Not sure what type of bell there is on the car now tbh.

I also noticed that the spur gear can wiggle a little towards the front and back of car, making the alignment a little bit better if i push it with my finger. Dont know if this is just a sign of bad quality or if something is not tightened enough....
I'd stick with what you have now for the bell.

The spur gear/diff movement is normal, they float a little so things don't bind. You can shim that as well to minimize the float, but it's not overly necessary.

I believe the shims behind the flywheel collet need to be 7mm ID. The shims before/after the bearings on the bell are 5mm ID. The washer on the end is just a typical M3 washer to keep the bell from falling off. OFNA used to sell a very comprehensive shim kit, but they don't exist anymore. The best I can find right now is this:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-1-8-scale-flywheel-nut-collet-shim-kit-ptk-7150/p222026

Combined with these should give you enough adjustment:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/reds-7x9x0.3mm-dixdexs-clutch-shim-10-redmu01083/p299194

Since this is your first nitro, might be worth watching a flywheel/bell shimming video or two:

You can find more on youtube.

To get a stuck flywheel off, you remove the nut, then you can tap on the back side of the flywheel with a hammer handle, vs buying the flywheel puller shown in the video. It should pop loose with a couple decent taps. Press the flywheel down onto the collet after adding the shims behind the collet (the brass/metal cone thing that goes into the back of the flywheel), tighten the flywheel nut a bit. Wrap the flywheel in a rag or paper towel before holding onto it with adjustable pliers, then crank down the nut.

Make sure to put loctite on the flywheel nut before installing it, the same with the screw that goes into the end of the crank shaft.

There are other videos to show how to install clutch shoes/springs. They can be a bit annoying to get on/off.
 
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I'd stick with what you have now for the bell.

The spur gear/diff movement is normal, they float a little so things don't bind. You can shim that as well to minimize the float, but it's not overly necessary.

I believe the shims behind the flywheel collet need to be 7mm ID. The shims before/after the bearings on the bell are 5mm ID. The washer on the end is just a typical M3 washer to keep the bell from falling off. OFNA used to sell a very comprehensive shim kit, but they don't exist anymore. The best I can find right now is this:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-1-8-scale-flywheel-nut-collet-shim-kit-ptk-7150/p222026

Combined with these should give you enough adjustment:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/reds-7x9x0.3mm-dixdexs-clutch-shim-10-redmu01083/p299194

Since this is your first nitro, might be worth watching a flywheel/bell shimming video or two:

You can find more on youtube.

To get a stuck flywheel off, you remove the nut, then you can tap on the back side of the flywheel with a hammer handle, vs buying the flywheel puller shown in the video. It should pop loose with a couple decent taps. Press the flywheel down onto the collet after adding the shims behind the collet (the brass/metal cone thing that goes into the back of the flywheel), tighten the flywheel nut a bit. Wrap the flywheel in a rag or paper towel before holding onto it with adjustable pliers, then crank down the nut.

Make sure to put loctite on the flywheel nut before installing it, the same with the screw that goes into the end of the crank shaft.

There are other videos to show how to install clutch shoes/springs. They can be a bit annoying to get on/off.
Okey thanks!
I have the engine out now and there is one 0,2mm schim behind the bell and two thicker washers infront on the screw. (Guessing they are washers and not schims).
There is almost no play in the bell back and forth and if i push the bell towards the flywheel the flywheel also spins.

I guess i'll have to play a little with shims and see where it takes me. Maybe theres room for more shims if i get rid of one washer infront?

Thanks, i appreciate the help!
 
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