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So my neighbor gave me this......

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Not really worth replacing p/s,I got a less than a gallon run .16 side port for that truck, shoot me a pm if interested
 
Depending on if you feel like rebuild.the engine ,35 buck will have you a new p/so for.for the pro and about.85 for a new engine .like others have said for another 15-20 dollars you can drop a 2.5 in it but you will need the later model throttle linkages due to the 2.5 being a slide carb and the pro a rotary.
If it were me I would just drop another pro .15 in it if it were for your son, they're not a bad engine just a bit underpowered.
 
Nothing like a complete tear down to see where you're at. I may still have some old pro .15 engine parts laying around in one of my many parts boxes, if I still have them, I know they were in better shape than what you have there. I will dig through some boxes tomorrow and see what I still have and let you know, if I do still have any of it, it's yours if you want em, but I will let you know tomorrow for sure.
 
I really think the pro gets a bit of a bum rap because either it wasn't broken in properly or people have one in a max and expect it to pop wheelies.
I have 2 in my collection , 1 I got new in a n stampede which was broken in properly and is still going great after many years of service will still fire first pop.the other is toast , got it in a n sport where I bought it 2nd hand and wasn't well looked after and dies within 6 tanks.
 
Slowly but surely it's coming along, quite a few hours of cleaning has started to pay off. A new steering servo, bulkhead cross braces and a whole crap load of screws are on the way. It'll be a week or so before the engine goes in, too many bills to pay and child support due this week.
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Hint: Get the 72t torque control slipper upgrade. It'll save you sooooooooo much trouble.
 
So after the cleaning and re-assembly, I've got maybe $70 into it. She starts right up but has a terribly rough idle and doesn't want to move unless I really hammer the throttle. The brakes seem to be working properly so I don't know if its a tranny issue or not. Just an FYI, I don't know how old the fuel is that he gave me, so maybe I should dump it and use fresh.

 
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The bucking is due to having reverse, it’s just the design of it. The only way to totally cure the bucking is to do the FOC (forward only) conversion.
You also have a high idle that needs tamed, the clutch bell/spur gear shouldn’t be spinning at idle (a little spin is ok, but not as much as your experiencing). When you tame the idle speed the bucking will not happen until you apply minimal throttle.
 
I completely agree with snookman .....is that the old fuel in the tank?
 
If the bucking is ok to have then I'll keep the reverse, my son will most likely need it! The tune is totally out of whack, I'll work on that today. I'm just really surprised it actually starts. The fuel is Speed Blend and the gallon is almost full, I guess I could always use it for other things. I've got some top fuel, I'll try that next go.
 
After a few minutes of tuning, the bucking has stopped at idle but I can't go any lower or it stalls and the spur and clutch bell are still hauling ass. The body is pretty useless, I'll probably just get a stock one off of fleabay. Will any body fit as long as its not for the 3.3? After running a full tank, the tune is all over the place so I'm thinking the piston/sleeve is just worn out. Overall I'm pretty happy considering it was free, so if I can score and engine and body..i'll have a little over $200 in it..the tires are kinda fugly though!

 
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If your tune is wandering, my guess would be to seal it. I don't see it as a piston/sleeve problem.
By the way, that thing is really looking good. Nice job!
 
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That's an old BUT mint looking pro .15 T maxx.

For a body any of the T maxx classic length bodies will work.

Looks like you need a new clutch or at least a new clutch spring.
 
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