Well, if you like the slower stuff, you may be money ahead to get a smaller tooth clutch bell. Dropping down a tooth or two will give you a lower top speed, but more low end torque.
If you had your clutch smoking, I'd suggest pulling the engine out, taking the bell off and lightly sanding the face of the shoes and inside the bell where the shoes drag. This will remove the glazing and help it engage better. Also, wipe the shoes (face and sides) and inside of the bell with some alcohol and paper towel to remove any oil residue that may have spun out of your bearings. One drop of oil on clutch shoes will cause instant problems with slippage and glazing as a result.
By the way, that's a neat looking little rig! Got a site for it? Would help us help you along if we had access to it's part lists and possibly a manual. You have no idea how many manuals I've downloading to try and help people out. I have a few hundred in a folder somewhere...
EDIT:
Did a quick google search and I may have found it:
http://fs-racingart.com/use_view.php?cid=36&bid=3
Just downloaded all the images available and I can't clearly see or find the tooth count on the bell or see the chassis to see if you can slide the engine forward back to adjust gear mesh... so it may be a mute issue. If you see slotted holes under the engine, then it's adjustable. If it's not fully slid close to the spur, then you should be able find a smaller tooth count clutch bell and use it. I also don't see that as an option in the parts list, but if you take yours off and measure it up, I'm sure we could find something that would work.
Kind of surprised to see an actual chain on that thing!
