Slipper delete

[DrFranz]

What’s the thinking behind eliminating a slipper clutch? I’m just bashing a 4wd Rustler that eats clutches but if I eliminate that won’t the diff’s take a beating?

 

[Greywolf74]

What’s the thinking behind eliminating a slipper clutch? I’m just bashing a 4wd Rustler that eats clutches but if I eliminate that won’t the diff’s take a beating?

You don't want to eliminate the slipper on a basher. If you do, it's a blown diff waiting to happen. (or some other drive line component) If you're eating up slipper clutches, then you most likely need to tighten it a little. The only time I've ever had a rig "eat" a clutch is if it's too loose, and it's slipping a lot. The heat that generates will destroy the slipper in short order. You only want the slipper to slip when the tires can't.

 

[WickedFog]

What he said ^^^

 

[bill_delong]

Locked Spools (AKA Slipper Delete) are primarily used in stock racing with prepped high grip surface such as carpet or clay with tire sauce. Stock motors don't generate enough power to make the car spin out of control and this significantly reduces rotating mass to help improve acceleration out of tight corners.

I actually found that a center fluid filled diff was far better for my lap times and that was better for me with my 13.5 wheeler on both turf and clay tracks.
*** I will never run a car with a center slipper ever again ***

Regardless in your case there's no reason to have a center slipper for bashing unless all you want to do is wheelies, if you want to reduce costs then I would invest in a fluid filled center diff and you'll notice the car will be drastically easier to drive:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxa...t-hoss-slash-stampede-rustler-tra6780/p949039

I recommend starting out with 10K-7K-3K for respective front-center-rear diff fluid combinations and then use the following guide from HUDY to make any changes from there, with a slipper the equivalent to fluid would be 500K with the slipper at the loosest setting to give you perspective of how horrible center slippers are

 

[9x19]

All of my 4x4 Traxxas vehicles, including the Rustler I just assembled, has the slipper replaced with a center diff.

The Hoss comes that way out of the box, and it is basically a Rustler 4x4 with a HCG chassis.

Traxxas part number 6780 or 6780A is a simple drop in part.

 

[DrFranz]

These are all great inputs that make sense, so thanks but; what's a center diff? Not the same as a slipper?

 

[9x19]

No, it's an actual gear differential with heavy weight oil inside. Replaces the slipper, and you get a smoother transfer of power, not as wheelie friendly if you're in to that.

https://traxxas.com/explodedviews/Center-Differential-Assembly-6780-Exploded-View

 

[bill_delong]

When's the last time you rebuilt your front/rear gear diffs, as in how many hours of actual run time?

I would encourage you to read the following post:

• Maintenance Tips

 

[WutUp Clegg]

If you eliminate the slipper, you can get a different ESC that will allow you to adjust the "punch."

 

[bill_delong]

If you eliminate the slipper, you can get a different ESC that will allow you to adjust the "punch."

To a certain point, there are ways to soften the acceleration with punch as well as drive frequency, throttle speed and expo curves, but these more of a "fine tuning" sort of thing, there's no way you can get your electronics to make a locked spool feel anywhere close to 7K fluid in the center diff for example

 

[CanadianNEWB]

Glad I found this thread as I have a clutch eliminator on order for my Slash. I made the mistake of buying something without seeing it in action. The guy I bought from showed me it turns both ways and the wheels go forward/reverse while holding in air. I trusted his honesty. I tried using it once I got home and it would barely move. I figured battery needed charging that should have been my first clue.

 

[Panko75]

For starters, buy part TRA6893X, its a cheap part that should be factory. The stock part is plastic and lets the slipper get burned up on powerful motors.

Then, either buy a center diff or just some Hot Racing metal slipper pads. They're better than stock and cost about the same as an eliminator.