should I convert

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ashmaling

RC Newbie
Messages
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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
Hi iv got a xray xt8 truggy with a rb motor do you think it is worth turning it brushless
 
I suppose that depends on what it is you want. You'll spend a decent amount of money getting a brushless system to keep up with a good nitro engine in 1/8 scale, and electrics aren't without their issues; I've smoked two ESCs this month, and they weren't cheap ones.

To have a BL system that'll run with an RB engine, you can probably expect to drop close $400 or more once you factor in a couple of 4S LiPos.
 
I really just want it for bashing were I can just plug a bat in and run
And I want something to run all year round the rb wont do to well in winter
 
I really just want it for bashing were I can just plug a bat in and run

I guess I just don't find it all that encumbering to add fuel and pull the ripcord, but that's me.

Maybe the answer is a switch to a less finicky engine, something like the Macstar .28 that you can get for $120 all day long. Tightly wound race engines are definitely more of a pain than those geared more toward bashing. The LRP ZR.32 in my OFNA Ultra LX Comp is pretty much pull-n-go, with the occasional 1/4 turn of the HSN.

I will tell you that, trying to push the envelope, I've had more issues with flashlights than Nitros. The instant punch off the line is harder on drivetrain parts, and the electrics cannot take the kind of constant running that a nitro will when you're really pushing things. I can run that OFNA non stop without issue, but my Prolite 4x4 on 3S goes into overheat shut down frequently if I run it as hard-and that's with an upgrade to the SC1200 ESC. That 3,500KV can will get hotter than any properly tuned nitro engine after 20 minutes of non-stop running, too. Sure, on 2S, it'll plod along all day, but it takes 3S to make it even close to being as quick as the OFNA buggy.
 
It sounds like your electric is geared too high if it's going into thermal shutdown. Try dropping it a bit.

As for the OP, you'll need an 1/8th scale ESC/motor. I've always had good luck with Castle Creations Mamba ESCs.
 
It sounds like your electric is geared too high if it's going into thermal shutdown. Try dropping it a bit.

Stock gearing.

I've got a XERUN 150A en route to deal with this. Also gonna find out how long that Reedy 550SL can take 4S. When I smoke it, I'll buy a Novak Ballistic 6.5T.

If you saw how I drive my kits, you wouldn't wonder at all why I buy so many parts. ;)
 
You'll ant a few more turns on the motor for more torque. I'd say no lower than a 13.5t motor.
 
You'll ant a few more turns on the motor for more torque. I'd say no lower than a 13.5t motor.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but............

Another option I've been considering is shoehorning a 720 can into this truck. I have a a 2150KV sensored motor; if I can get gear mesh without hacking the chassis too bad, I'll mill a new mount and relocate the ESC. I'm also toying with the idea of fitting OFNA 1/8 driveline parts into it. But I've only had the truck for 3 weeks, so I'm not ready to go that nuts yet.

I'm obviously too new here for anyone to know my style yet, but mad scientist sums it up pretty well. Think nitro-converted, .15-powered RC18T........
 
brushless can be a lot of fun but its also expensive to convert, especially if you dont already have stuff for electrics like lipos and chargers solder station etc. You also have to be able to find conversion parts for it. At least a motor mount. Electric conversions also tend to tear up the drive line of nitro based kits because they have a lot more power. Unless you run it more conservatively, like say on 4S instead of 6S but I dont know many people that convert that dont go right for the big 6S stuff lol. Just my .02
 
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