RTR out of the box crimbo morning

[PaulC]

So, I have one of these (hopefully) arriving crimbo morning.

Ansmann Racing Vapor RTR Buggy
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=32487

The US folks probably won't have heard of them as they are a relatively new German manufacturer.

1/8th scale, 0.28 Engine, plenty of spares and parts available in the UK. Lots of bashing video's on you tube and it looks like it flies and loves being bashed.

So what will I need on crimbo morning and what are my plans to be?

I have ordered:
The car (RTR with radio etc.)
A started pack (Glo-starter w/ charger, hex wrenches, fuel bottle)
A Medium Cold Glowplug (Ansmann)
Laser pointed IR temp gauge.

I will buy locally before xmas:
* 1 gallon of 25% nitro fuel (as it's a bigger engine and very cold damp climate)
* Couple more glow plugs (if I can find them).
* Engine after run oil
12xAA Alkaline batteries for rx and tx.

On crimbo morning I was planning on checking it all out, testing the radio gear etc. Then starting it for the first tank in my yard, though it depends on how early it is, anything before 10am and I'd better not or my neighbours will hunt me down and kill me. The logic here is, it is bloody freezing cold at Christmas here (<4*C) and while I have the nice warm car to retreat to on site, I'd like to get the engine started and starting reliably in the comfort of my own house with heat and coffee!

I wasn't planning on dismantling the engine and sealing it. I'd first need to find the correct tools for pulling the flywheel etc. and high temp silicone sealer / copper gasket glue. Is this a problem?

I am planning on locite (blue) tighting the engine mount screws and maybe some others if they look like metal into metal without nylocs.

Then I am hoping to run it through the old school break in method, unless the manual says otherwise. Basically follow the manual.

Hopefully the weather will hold, but I assume they run in the rain/snow?

Bashing will happen on:
* Open car park for break in and tuning
* Open flat gravel football pitch, for drifting and general practice
* BMX course for bashing and jumps.
* The local off road bike practice place, mostly gravel hills, jumps, open areas and a few bushes and things to avoid hitting.

I'd be very interested in your experienced advice and suggestions on anything I have forgotten or should be aware of.

Paul

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Grab a 5 cell rechargeable pack for the rx. They make a huge difference in servo performance and rx system reliability. If one of the aa's pop lose, your in trouble. Get a fail safe as well. If it gets any colder than 20 degrees (f), put it away. The fuel can gel up and that's bad news for the engine.

 

[Rolex]

What, might I ask, is crimbo?

 

[drdoom405]

You're probably gonna want to have the temp above freezing before you go and break it in, or have a hair dryer handy.

 

[revo_rob_1984]

What, might I ask, is crimbo?

Crimbo is a slang word for christmas

www.urbandictionary.com

 

[slowngreen]

I also googled it lol...

Nope, never heard of that brand but it is a cool looking buggy for sure!

 

[Racer 1966]

I've seen a couple of posts with questions about the Ansmann Vapor Buggy and wonder what it looked like. Thanks for the pic, that looks sweet. I'm a fan of the green :thumbup:

 

[Metalhead Matt]

That thing is damn sharp. The green goes with crimbo quite well.

 

[revo_rob_1984]

i agree 100% that is one bad A** looking buggy. . .i wonder what it would look like in red????. . .Hmmmm

 

[PaulC]

Red one looks like:

It's the ARR version, but you can always buy a body shell for RTR.

Here's how it looks running:

Nice air after 1:00

Thanks for the advice, I'll check out the rx pack, but for xmas day I think I'll just tape them into the battery box

Failsafe... are they all the same more or less or will I need a particular type?

 

[revo_rob_1984]

Red one looks like:

Failsafe... are they all the same more or less or will I need a particular type?

Wow that red is SEXY!!!!!. . .lol
but as far as a fail safe they are all about the same there is not particular type you need to get all that you need to know is that they are a life saver in times of a lost connection between the transmitter and the reciever, ofna and venom both make a good failsafe and easy to set up too, and for 20 bucks you can't beat having the "insurance" for knowing if you do lose the connection you aren't gonna destroy your ride.

 

[Rolex]

Crimbo is a slang word for christmas

www.urbandictionary.com

Pitiful. No wonder he hasn't posted in Racer 1966's thread.

 

[PaulC]

So the buggy arrived, I'm not allowed to see it of course as it's for xmas morning

I did get the glo plug and the "Quick start" sheet. Not exactly brimming with information, but I have been warned that Ansmann instructions suck big time.

The break in procedure is quoted as:
"The first 3-4 tanks should be run with engine "rich" and the engine should be run in short easy intervals of about 3-6 minutes at half throttle with periods for cooling down in between."

Adding a temp gauge and that sounds more like the 'new school' method, what do you think?

I also found the new model shop that has opened in my local high street stocks all Nitro and RC stuff I'll try and shop there to support them as they don't often last long before closing again.

I bought 2 spare glo plugs, to make a total of 3 now. A gallon of 20% nitro as recommended by shop and "quick start" guide. I also bought a fail safe Forgot to buy afterrun oil

I feel like a kid now, can't wait for xmas morning!

Air filter oil? I have never used this stuff before and for my real motorbike (Kwak 500cc) I just use 4 stroke engine oil in the foam filter. Any thoughts on this?

 

[neobart]

Break in: make sure engine runs around 90-100c. It's a good idea to put a sock and/or tin foil on the head. Makes the engine run hotter so you can run it richer for better lubrication for break in. After running it's a good idea to put the piston at BDC(bottom dead center), which is another word for bottom of stroke. Some engines take as little as 1 liter for break in, and other as long as 2 gallons(US gallons that is) . They way I check if my engine is fully broken in is by removing the plug and check if the piston still sticks at TDC(top dead center). If is sticks just a little that's fine, but if you need to use force to get it free, it needs more break in.
While doing the break in and making sure the engine runs just under 100c you should only take it to half throttle in short bursts. After you reached 4-5 tanks you can begin to open up the throttle a little more.

The engine might stall on you a few times when doing break in and it may frustrate you to no end, but proper break in will ensure a long life of your engine.

I use Bellray filter oil for motorcycles, there's no need to buy the expensive stuff at the model shop. Just makes sure it's nice and tacky.
Enjoy.

 

[hamz9561]

A good failsafe is a necessity. If you aren't running a Spektrum type radio, you might consider the Ofna failsafe.

 

[PaulC]

Break in:

I use Bellray filter oil for motorcycles, there's no need to buy the expensive stuff at the model shop. Just makes sure it's nice and tacky.

Cheers.

The extra plugs I bought are like half a mm shorter than the other (both types are short reach), so I think I will use one of those to get the engine started as they will have very slightly less compression.

Would putting the car on a radiator with the cylinder head touching the hot radiator be a good way to warm it up before starting it first time? And maybe running some nitro fuel through the engine to coat it all in oil first? Don't want to break my pull start!

A good failsafe is a necessity. If you aren't running a Spektrum type radio, you might consider the Ofna failsafe.

I got a Fusion - Intelligent failsafe.

BTW, I once ran a Cox .049 engine (no pipe/exhaust, recoil start, rear crank case reed valve in take, no thottle just WOT) on "Surgical spirit" a lot cheaper than nitro fuel, pure medical grade alcohol but no oil! Believe it or not it ran through a whole tank without seizing.

 

[PaulC]

Well I got it.

I got 3 tanks through it, engine was loosening up nicely and I broke it. Miss judged a sliding turn and slid it sideways into a kerb

In my defense the car park was covered in frost and ice!

Now... What is the generic name for these?

As you can see I am attempting a fix. Super glue to stick it back together and epoxy putty to strengthen it up. All going well it should be runnable tomorrow, it will be dark by the time the putty hardens.

The parts lists I can order online don't list the number in the manual which is T08039 when most of the part numbers start with 11xxxx

The hot up part in the manual (alloy) is called "Rear suspension arms", but when I search for that hot up part the websites call it "Rear hub carrier". I can then find a normal rear hub carrier... called:

Rear Hub Carrier (Pr) - Vapor

So I assume that is the bad boys themselves. Sounds like reasonable deduction doesn't it?

Normal (easily broken) plastic ones are £6 (~$10), alloy ones are... £32 (~$50)! So I think I'll have the plastic ones again.

Buggy looks like it will be a real blast, did one high speed run just before I broke it and it must have been doing 40mph easy.

Paul

 

[Racer 1966]

You are correct,hub carrier/axle carrier are what they are usually called.

Sounds like you are running it a bit too had for only 3 tanks through it. Engine life may suffer if you're too agressive breaking it in.

 

[PaulC]

You are correct,hub carrier/axle carrier are what they are usually called.

Sounds like you are running it a bit too had for only 3 tanks through it. Engine life may suffer if you're too agressive breaking it in.

Thanks, I've ordered the spares and my fixed part is back on the car, but going to let the epoxy set overnight. If it holds, it holds, if it doesn't... it doesn't.

The instructions just said to run it at half throttle out of the box for 3-4 tanks with a few minutes every 4-6 to cool down.

I let the car idle for half a tank and checked the temp and it was like 108*C should be about 100. So I richened it 1/8 turn and started running it up and down on 1/4 throttle and the temp went up to 112*C! I added another 1/8th turn of richening. Second tank was half throttle in short bursts Lots of blue smoke and temps fell to 97*C. Third tank the engine was audiable much happier and so 1/2 throttle for longer bursts. ... and once or twice WOT I couldn't resist!

I was "wowww!"'ing at it's speed as it past me, forgot to brake in time and threw it sideways at the last minute, it slid sideways on the ice into the curb. Didn't even seem like I hit all that fast, but ... worst place to hit suspension. If I'd gone in straight it probably wouldn't have broken much.

Paul

 

[neobart]

The cold will make the plastic very brittle, so it doesn't take that much if you hit something just right(well wrong actually).

Sounds like you're having fun. As long as temps stay just around 100c and you only hit WOT occasionally in short burst you should be alright.