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RTR complete tear-down or check locktite?

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hotwheels_stl

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I have read all of the info I can find on what to do before running an RTR for the first time. Everything I've read seems to say the most important thing is to check that Locktite is on all metal to metal connections. If I carefully check that is it necessary to tear it apart completely? Thanks for the help!
 
It does not require a complete tear-down. If a screw is difficult to get to, you may have to remove a few things to get to it, but that should be it.

Remove one screw at a time, add the locktite then put it back before moving on to the next screw.

The real important screws to add locktite to are the motor mounting screws. Those will vibrate loose quick with locktite.

Be sure to only use the blue locktite. Never use red.

You may want to just tear it down anyway to get familar with the buggy. This is what I usually do.
 
I probably will tear it down after the 1st real run with the boy... I just want to get it goin on break in so it will be RTR for real on "Christmas". (not said to offend anyone!!) Thanks for the quick reply!
 
If you aren't tearing it down, be sure to check all the bolts you can get to in between runs. There will more than likely be some loosening up. Just my $0.02. :cheers:
 
also...make sure there isnt any drag in you linkages, such as...check to make sure your steering assembly moves freely before you connect it to the servo horn.
 
Another useful tip for break in, would be to pretty much ignore your manufacturer's engine break in instructions, and go with the heat cycle method, sometimes called the Bess method.

Manufacturer's break in methods suggest that you run the car as rich as possible for several tanks, before finally leaning out the engine gradually. Many believe this is bad and prefer instead the heat cycle method for two reasons:

1. By running your engine excessively rich, you are putting undue stress on the internal components such as connecting rods, and crankshafts since the engine is almost hydro-locking (flooding) by their recommendations.

2. By running the engine excessively rich, you are keeping the temperatures too low to allow for proper metal expansion of the sleeve. This can cause premature wear, since the tapered portion of the sleeve will remain overly tight in a rich (and cool) state.

Pick up a temperature gauge such as OFNA's PCR gauge (only $30.00), you cannot imagine how much easier this will make engine tuning.

This method involves running your kit at temperatures above 200, but below 250 degrees (measured at glow plug) for 2-3 minute intervals. Making sure smoke is visible for low to mid RPMs when accelerating. Keep below half throttle, and don't make too sudden of throttle inputs. After that, shut the car down and move the piston to bottom dead center (BDC) in the stroke**. Allow the car to cool fully to ambient air temperature, and then repeat this process, for about a half hour worth of driving time (not including cool down time).

** Before you run the car the first time, mark BDC by removing your glow plug, and inserting a thin object, such as a flat blade screwdriver, or antenna tube to rest on top of the piston. Rotate the flywheel until the object is at its lowest point. Mark this with a scratch on your flywheel so that you can orient the motor to this position quickly each time you shut your car off (for the life of the engine, not just break in). This is because these model engines do not have ring seals like a normal piston. They use a tapered cylinder to create a seal. By lowering your piston below the "pinch" after each run, you will prolong engine life by preserving this sealing effect.

NOTE:
Leaner = Clockwise
Richer = Counter-clockwise
Temperatures are typically reduced by making the engine richer, and vice versa

Once you have completed the break in method above, follow the below steps to fine tune your engine.

- Set your needles to their default postions (including your idle).

- Run the car until it is warmed up. If you are having trouble getting it started, try leaning the high speed needle 1/12th of a turn (one hour on a clock) leaner until the engine starts. Keep an eye on temperatures making sure they don't exceed 250 degrees.

- Gradually lean the high speed needle until your temperatures reach 220-250 degrees. Make sure you smoke is visible from the exhaust when accelerating between low to mid RPMs.

- Once the high speed needle is in range, bring the car in, and pinch the fuel line until the engine stalls. It should take between 3-5 seconds for this to happen. If it takes less richen the low speed needle 1/12th of a turn. If it takes more lean the lean the low speed needle 1/12th of a turn. Keep an eye on temperatures to make sure you are still within range, as adjusting the low speed needle can sometimes have an effect on temperature.

- Once your high and low speed needles are properly adjusted, adjust your idle so that it is as high as it can be without the car moving. You will note that changes to the other needles will have an effect on your idle.

- Repeat this process (except the first step) any time the weather changes while driving (overcast, windy, etc) and at the beginning of a day of driving.

If you notice an excessive fluctuation between full tank and close to (but not all the way) empty tank temperatures try the following:

1. Purchase a fuel filter
2. Remove the inner filter element
3. Install the fuel filter on your pressure line (the line running between the top of the gas tank and the exhaust pipe)

This keeps overflow from a full tank from clogging your pressure line, by giving it a place to collect. By keeping your pressure line clear, this helps ensure that the motor won't lean bog from lack of tank pressure when you fill up.
 
hotwheels_stl said:
I probably will tear it down after the 1st real run with the boy... I just want to get it goin on break in so it will be RTR for real on "Christmas". (not said to offend anyone!!) Thanks for the quick reply!
Thats great but even a simple run can loosen a lot of screws that aren't loctited down. Be sure instead of sorry. IMO of course.

Jon2
 
I agree entirely. Also, it sucks to buy a brand new kit and run it once, lose a wheel nut, with the LHS out of them, wait a week for shipping, then lose an engine mount screw on it's second run. Learn from other's mistakes, not your own. It really stinks to take about 3 weeks to finally get your buggy broken in like it took for me.
(And now I'm out of service coz I broke a shock due to not having a fail-safe, another wise investment....)
 
I did buy a venom f/s with temp f/s... i guess i should only use that for the f/s features and not to monitor temp?

and does outside temp matter when breaking-in/running? it is 14 degrees here today and don't expect it will get much warmer prior to xmas, should i wait for warmer weather to break it in?

i had planned on going over the buggie throughly to check everthing in addition to checking for locktite.
 
I usually won't run mine when it's below 40ish......the temps drop real fast and expansion /contraction of metals gets wacky fromt eh rapid drops....makes metal do funky stuff sometimes.....guys that run theirs in winter usually wrap the head or get a spare cooling head and shave 2 or 3 fins off so it won't dissipate heat too quickly.....
 
thanks for the input... mr. "hot-n-humid"! got a spare room? let u play with my (uh, i mean the sons) new toy! lol thanks again!
 
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