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Revo throttle mod question

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rlouis12

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Hello can someone please tell me how to improve my throttle on my revo.

1. I already brought the 5x8 ball bearing but i do not know how to instead them. Please provide some pictures and tell me whatelse i need to put on. also how many ball bearing to put on.

2. Also should I keep the spring on the throttle or not? Or what mod should i make to it?

3. Or please just tell me the best steering mod?
 
Going with a 5x8 bearing will reduce the drag for improved response time over the standard bushing installation. You just pop the bushings out and install the bearings in their place. As far as the TRS it's up to you. Do you have a fail safe? If not I would suggest you keep it. If you do run a f/s then it's entirely up to you. If your running the stock throttle servo some say the spring is a bit much for it. Without the spring you'll also have a quicker response time since your servo doesn't have to over come the spring.
 
You either have to have the TRS (throttle return spring) or you have to totally redo how it connects to the servo horn if you want to remove it. Also, like jetmech said, I wouldn't suggest removing it unless you have a FS (electronic fail safe).

The spring is what pulls the carb shut on the stock setup. Without it, the carb won't close. But IMHO, the stock TRS was way to stiff.

I bought the bearings and I had extra servo horn stuff laying around, so I totally re-did mine. I also removed the stock TRS.

Here's a close up so you can see it, this is with the stock servo horn:
2005-1201-RevoThrottleLinkageHiRes.jpg


I replaced the servo with a hi-torque metal geared servo, so now I'm using a different horn all together. It was a total PITA to get it to work inside the servo box without hitting the box or dragging on the lid. There's a reason the stock servo horn is weird looking... it needs to be that way to make it easy for clearance issues.

I've also turned my throttle arm on the carb forward about 20 degrees so I can get more throw with less servo movement. Now the carb will open all the way. It's not turned in this photo though. I don't have a good close up of what it looks like now.
 
Olds, I meant to thank you for posting this earlier! I did this mod to my Revo and it made a world of difference! Personally, I think the key is using the captured ball end on the throttle arm, takes that slop out.
 
I know I've posted this 3 or four times, but I get tired of looking for it. It's a small pic and it gets the point accross easier than explaining it.

Glad it worked out for you. I"ve run almost a gallon through since I've done the above mods and have had no throttle/brake problems. Still smooth and the throttle barrol in the carb doesn't get stuck.

I had to bend the wire a bit so the ball end shaft wouldn't hit the pivot arm at full throttle. I think I also ground a little off to give me the extra clearance needed on the ball end and the pivot. Not the most straigtforward mod, but it works well and slop is very minimal. Besides, I trust a captured end more so than a z-bend.
 
Actually, if you go with a futaba servo, you can use the stock horn/slider thing like my photo. I am using a futaba s3305. The only reason I'm not running that horn anymore is because I changed radio's. My current radio doesn't give me the 50/50 split on the throttle brake servo, so I had to alter the geometry of the setup quite a bit to get it to work right.

The S3305 is under $40, it's a metal geared high torque servo. They last quite a long time. I'd like them more if they had another 30-50 oz of torque...

It has 120oz with 6v and .20 second transit time. Which is plenty for the braking duties on the revo. But you would want more for steering though. That's where I had the S3305 first, but then my stock throttle servo started wigging out, so I moved the S3305 to the throttle/brake and bought a hitec 645MG for steering. Although, I think I'm going to save up for a more powerful one for steering. The 645MG gets the job done, but I'd like more.

Here's a link for the S3305 servo:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWF8&P=ML

Traxxas servo's use the same spline count/diameter as futaba so the horns are useable on futaba servo's.

Make sure you get a fail safe before removing that TRS! It's $20 worth of insurance that could save a run away.
This is what I have on all my trucks: OFNA Micro FS
 
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Olds, Traxxas sells their own special horn like the stock one but in different versions to fit different brands of servos.
 
Thanks for the info, but with my radio, I don't get enough throw to engage the brakes and open the throttle all the way, so I have to use a different type horn anyway.
 
work in progress

hello. i've been tinkering with my throttle for a while now... when i saw this thread it totally made my day... i had never thought of removing the spring :ponder2: . this sheds a whole new light on the situation. now i didnt have to figure out some wierd place to put that damn spring.

the thing is, i am taking my servo box off and putting the throttle servo where my other steering servo would be... as noted in the pic below. my current problem is finding linkage, thats long enough to reach the throttle mechanism. i need about a 6" linkage... with 1" of thread on one end. anyway, heres the picture of my work in progress. any tips on where i could get this linkage? any custom builders? thanks


linkage8am.jpg



i plan on using this to attach to the throttle mechanism... and attach this to the end of the linkage to complete my image. i imagine i'll do something similar to the brake...
 
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Any of you guys that are removing the TRS race? Some if not many tracks require one to be installed, just an FYI so you don't pitch it and get to the dance and they say sorry no racey today for you.
 
I installed a less aggressive one directly on the carb connected to the carb slider thing...

Malanga, do you have a LHS (hobby shop) near you or a hardware store? LHS's carry the threaded end rod. Sometimes you can also find it at the hardware store.

I bought my threaded rod at my LHS, it was a 12 inch piece.
 
hey guys i know a guy with a pretty good setup on his truck. it's the same guy that dyed his fuel tank and stuff if you saw that thread. what he did was he mounted his throttle servo on some standoffs where his steering servo used to be. then he made a couple of custom linkage pieces to attach everything. his trs is hooked to the screw hole near the servo and to a linkage collar in the middle of the rod towards the engine. he had to make a funky looking piece for the brakes but it works great. it's real solid and it took a little weight off, too. i'll get some pics for you when i see him.
 
I don't think that du-bro link you have is the stuff I bought... I heat mine red hot to bend it. If you do that with aluminum, it cracks and breaks. I'm pretty sure mine is steel.
 
truthseeker said:
hey guys i know a guy with a pretty good setup on his truck. it's the same guy that dyed his fuel tank and stuff if you saw that thread. what he did was he mounted his throttle servo on some standoffs where his steering servo used to be. then he made a couple of custom linkage pieces to attach everything. his trs is hooked to the screw hole near the servo and to a linkage collar in the middle of the rod towards the engine. he had to make a funky looking piece for the brakes but it works great. it's real solid and it took a little weight off, too. i'll get some pics for you when i see him.
Click to expand...
IMO, this is the best set-up yet, it's all the stock linkage and I've yet to have a problem with it:
Throttlemount2640.gif
 
TSK, TSK, Jet! Look at the filth! How do you sleep at night knowing your rig is that dirty? What next, leave the piston at TDC with no ARO and fuel in the tank?
 

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