Receiver battery education needed

[CaputoNL001]

Up until now all my receivers took the (4) AA battery holder. For the Losi 8ieght can the 1600Mah battery be replaced with the pictured 5100Mah battery?

Also does the receiver that comes with the RTR need an external fail safe?

 

[Rolex]

Yup, highly recommended. You'll never look back.

 

[cbaker65]

Uh ,you might want to check the diminsions of that battery ,it says that its for a 1/5 scale!

If it is the little size then your ok ,make sure that they aren't the sub C size!

 

[Rolex]

Uh ,you might want to check the diminsions of that battery ,it says that its for a 1/5 scale!

If it is the little size then your ok ,make sure that they aren't the sub C size!

Yup, he makes a valid point.

 

[cbaker65]

Yup, he makes a valid point.

Lol......I really don't know what the size is that he posted ,but if I'm not mistakin ,I think that mine in the baja
are sub C batts. ,I have to go look!

My problem is ,my battery keeps frying my throttle servo ,I went through 3 servo's ,but the big 1/5 scale
steering servo .dosnt seem to be effected by it!

That batt. that he showed ,could be for a 1/5 size ,but is a smaller type to get rid of the sub C.!

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, that's a sub-c type pack. I'm assuming that you really want a 5 cell 2/3A hump pack:
https://www.rcplanet.com/batteries/...ry-6v-1700mah-reciever-pack-3-2-hump-dyn1461/

The receiver should have a fail safe if signal is lost, but I doubt it has one if pack voltage gets too low.

I'm not sure specifically which transmitter/receiver combo comes with it. If it's this one:
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM2330, it comes with the SR310 receiver. To set the fail safe positions, with the receiver off, you need to put the throttle where you want it and steer the tires where you want them when the fail safe kicks in. Then you put the bind plug in, power it up, put the transmitter in bind mode. Once it links, you power it down, remove the bind plug, then turn everything back on. Now, if you use the remote to turn the wheels and the trigger to go WOT, shut the transmitter off and the servos should move back to where they were when you bound the xmitter/receiver.

 

[CaputoNL001]

Yeah, that's a sub-c type pack. I'm assuming that you really want a 5 cell 2/3A hump pack:
https://www.rcplanet.com/batteries/...ry-6v-1700mah-reciever-pack-3-2-hump-dyn1461/

The receiver should have a fail safe if signal is lost, but I doubt it has one if pack voltage gets too low.

I'm not sure specifically which transmitter/receiver combo comes with it. If it's this one:
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM2330, it comes with the SR310 receiver. To set the fail safe positions, with the receiver off, you need to put the throttle where you want it and steer the tires where you want them when the fail safe kicks in. Then you put the bind plug in, power it up, put the transmitter in bind mode. Once it links, you power it down, remove the bind plug, then turn everything back on. Now, if you use the remote to turn the wheels and the trigger to go WOT, shut the transmitter off and the servos should move back to where they were when you bound the xmitter/receiver.

the battery link you provided is the battery i ended up ordering so i guess i got the right ones ??, i bought two. but i could not find a charger with the right plug, do you happen to have a link to a charger?

i also ended up ordering the dynamite failsafe. says it works for both lost signal and voltage below 4volts.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well, for myself, I use a switch that has a battery charger pigtail on it so I can put the battery and it's connector in a balloon and ziptie it to keep it dry when bashing in wet conditions. Then I use the charging pigtail from the switch to charge.

If you bought the one I linked, it's just a standard servo plug.

A cheap trickle charger like this will work:
https://www.rcplanet.com/chargers/chargers-ac/spektrum-150mah-wall-charger-with-tx-adaptor-spm9526/

It will take 10+ hours to fully charge a 1500mah pack as it only puts out 150mah.

Or, get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Prophet-Multichemistry-Charger-DYNC2030

Then you can charge at 1A (about all the higher I'd go with a receiver pack) and charge a 1500mah pack in 1.5 hours.

This should work to connect that charger to a receiver pack:
https://www.amazon.com/HobbyStar-JR-Charge-Lead/dp/B00JZ5IQ02

This is the kind of switch I typically use which has a pigtail for charging without needing to remove the battery pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-SWH13-Switch-Harness-Charge/dp/B0015H4BN4

When in "Off", it allows you to charge the receiver pack while in the vehicle.

This would probably work ok too for a charger and it comes with a spider adapter to use with a receiver plug among others:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Radio-Controlled-Aircraft-Batteries/dp/B018PAPFQK

 

[cbaker65]

This may charge the battery!....LOL

 

[CaputoNL001]

Well, for myself, I use a switch that has a battery charger pigtail on it so I can put the battery and it's connector in a balloon and ziptie it to keep it dry when bashing in wet conditions. Then I use the charging pigtail from the switch to charge.

If you bought the one I linked, it's just a standard servo plug.

A cheap trickle charger like this will work:
https://www.rcplanet.com/chargers/chargers-ac/spektrum-150mah-wall-charger-with-tx-adaptor-spm9526/

It will take 10+ hours to fully charge a 1500mah pack as it only puts out 150mah.

Or, get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Prophet-Multichemistry-Charger-DYNC2030

Then you can charge at 1A (about all the higher I'd go with a receiver pack) and charge a 1500mah pack in 1.5 hours.

This should work to connect that charger to a receiver pack:
https://www.amazon.com/HobbyStar-JR-Charge-Lead/dp/B00JZ5IQ02

This is the kind of switch I typically use which has a pigtail for charging without needing to remove the battery pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-SWH13-Switch-Harness-Charge/dp/B0015H4BN4

When in "Off", it allows you to charge the receiver pack while in the vehicle.

This would probably work ok too for a charger and it comes with a spider adapter to use with a receiver plug among others:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Radio-Controlled-Aircraft-Batteries/dp/B018PAPFQK

I ended up going to my LHS and got the prophet P1 mini from dynamite, it is adjustable between 1a and 6a, you suggest not going higher than 1a?

 

[cbaker65]

I ended up going to my LHS and got the prophet P1 mini from dynamite, it is adjustable between 1a and 6a, you suggest not going higher than 1a?

That's because they are small batteries ,an they heat up faster!

 

[olds97_lss]

I ended up going to my LHS and got the prophet P1 mini from dynamite, it is adjustable between 1a and 6a, you suggest not going higher than 1a?

I think typically, at least for receiver packs with 2/3A cells, most don't go any higher than 1C charge rate. For a 1500mah pack, you divide the capacity it by 1000 (1Amp), which is 1.5A to charge at 1C. Since your charger does 1A or 2A, your better off sticking with 1A so you get more life (cycles) out of the pack.

I have an old MRC charger that lets me dial anywhere between .5A and 4.5A, so I usually charge only at .5A even though the packs I run can handle 1.6A, just so it doesn't over stress them. I typically charge my stuff the night before (NiMH packs), then do a quick peak charge in the morning before going out. So I'm not usually in a big hurry anyway.

 

[CaputoNL001]

I think typically, at least for receiver packs with 2/3A cells, most don't go any higher than 1C charge rate. For a 1500mah pack, you divide the capacity it by 1000 (1Amp), which is 1.5A to charge at 1C. Since your charger does 1A or 2A, your better off sticking with 1A so you get more life (cycles) out of the pack.

I have an old MRC charger that lets me dial anywhere between .5A and 4.5A, so I usually charge only at .5A even though the packs I run can handle 1.6A, just so it doesn't over stress them. I typically charge my stuff the night before (NiMH packs), then do a quick peak charge in the morning before going out. So I'm not usually in a big hurry anyway.

What kind of run time can I expect out of those 1600mah packs?

 

[olds97_lss]

It varies from driver to driver and truck to truck. Heavier truck with higher torque/speed servos and analog vs digital servos will flatten a pack faster than a smaller/lighter truck with the same servos usually.

I think on average, I get 1000cc's of fuel through a truck before I notice the pack starting to get weak. Granted, mine are tuned and ready to go, so that 1000cc's is pretty much just constant running around in skate parks and grass bashing. I run middle of the road servos mostly, hitech 985MG and savox 0231 in one of my revos and similar, 985MG t/b in my savage x and a higher speed/torque digital for steering, and 2 985MG's in my big block revo. So on average for me is 1.5-2 hours before I run out of fuel as I only take 1000cc's at most. When my receiver pack doesn't hold enough charge to make it through 1000cc's, I replace it as it's starting to die.

However, now that I run electric, I have a charger in my car, so I could run until I ran out of fuel or broke my truck. I didn't used to have a charger with me all the time, but since I run electric mostly these days, I have a 2x12A/2x150W multi-charger that stays in my car all the time. So I guess now I could keep a tired pack longer.