D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
just clarifying, with the bigger spur gear you do not have room to install the engine/clutchbell because the engine mount slots are not adjustable that far? or am i misunderstanding?
Welcome to RCTalk
Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Dizzyotes88
RCTalk Racer
- Thread starter
- #82
The bigger 52T spur gear is toast. Plastic crap against a metal clutch bell gear. It ate it up. But the 49T gear won't go on securely. It doesn't have that cone shape on the side facing the motor. The 47T is toast as well. I don't want to lose my fun right now until the metal 47T spur gear gets here. With the winter weather going on I don't know when my parts will get here at this point.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
is the slipper nut bottoming out before its tightening down? or is it wobbly and loose on there even when tightened down ? like the inner bore is too big on the spur?
if not maybe try posting a quick vid of what the issue is, having a hard time picturing it.
if not maybe try posting a quick vid of what the issue is, having a hard time picturing it.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
might try installing a washer or shim between the spring and the nut to take up some of the extra slack and see if that works? remember to loosen the slipped as spec'd in the manual, too tight and it will tear up spur gears right and left. if i remember correctly it was 1/4 turn from tight, but i could be remembering another truck.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
if you had not loosened the slipper adjustment nut, yes most likely.
just for FYI
the clutchbell is the gear/clutch drum that mounts on the engine itself, the screw holding the clutchbell on at the end of the crank should be tight.
the adjustment they give you in the manual is from a nut tight/spring compressed position (do not overtighten, you will feel it when the spring is compressed fully), then you back out however far the manual says.
the manual gives a good base all around setting, if you are on high grip surfaces, you may need to loosen it slightly more, if its looser surfaces, may need to tighten it a bit, but for standard bashing, base settings are where you want to be at.
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
yeah that will do it, hey no time like the present to learn though. i have never had a problem with plastic spur gears, typically the only time they go out when adjusted correctly is when it just saved the rest of your drivetrain from failing, cheap and easy to replace 5$ part vs 30$ parts or tearing into the transmission. there are a few rigs that i would recommend steel spur gears, but mostly because of vehicle design "flaws" or better setup, like the T-maxx, the RRP slipper and steel spur assembly is so much better than the stock pegs that go into the spur gear, also with the T-Maxx the chassis likes to flex which will strip spur gears unless you have the metal chassis braces to hold it stiffer.Been running it on my street in front of my house. So yeah we burnt up both gears because we had it more than snug. Oops. ?
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
had you tried the washer/shim method above?
monstertruckier15
RCTalk Addict
The fail safe will stop the truck from a run away if signal lost or low voltage is lost. It will put the brakes on preventing you to drive it until you fix the problem. It sets up easy.
Last edited:
Dizzyotes88
RCTalk Racer
- Thread starter
- #93
Have not. I'm about to go to the RC store. See if they have anything that will work. But that spur gear is flat. It doesn't have that cone like the other one. I did just order the steel version of the 52T spur gear. I like the torque with that gear. Thinking of that 49T will work I'll put the 17T bell gear on it. See what that does. I know I can go faster. But it's a monster truck. It should have a crawl gear to it I think.
It's all personal preference. I get that. But that torque is just sick to me.
It's all personal preference. I get that. But that torque is just sick to me.
monstertruckier15
RCTalk Addict
Pic 2 shows a gap? it is not on correct. gear is on backwards. When you put the slipper clutch back together stand the truck up so gravity is you friend and stack it back together. Ditch the the cheap bushing for a bearing on the gear.
Last edited:
D3MON
Hardcore RCTalk User
definitely, we all like different parts about the hobby, and thats what makes it great, we all want out of it what we want out of it.
i am definitely not a "speed is better" person personally, i like them just fast enough for what i want it to do, going too much over just breaks more parts.
but the next guy may want to go for "top speed" and that is cool too.
monstertruckier15
RCTalk Addict
I-12881-1_P01 (hpiracing.com) There is a pressure plate that sits on the spur gear drive hub with pins. It slid off and that why you have a gap. look at the manual and see.
117107-2_vol02_savage_x_46_rtr_print30092020.pdf (hpiracing.com)
Are you setting the gear mesh correct? Use a piece of paper to set the gear mesh correct.
Last edited:
