Ramp for 1/10 and 1/8 - Design Help

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WickedFog

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So I have been working with a local woodshop. This old guy is just loving the little projects I send him. The next one will be a ramp for the Kraton and our 1/10th stuff. Tell me if you think this looks ok.

The ramp board itself will either be 1/4" hardboard or hardwood plywood. We use 1/4" hardboard and blocks currently, so this will be a lot stronger. The goal is lightweight, but durable. The main supports will be cabinet grade (no voids) 3/4" plywood. The braces will be 1x3 pine lumber. Everything will have a finish to protect it from the weather, even though it won't see much weather.
Ramp Assembly View 1.png

Ramp Side Dimensions.png

Ramp Left Dimensions.png
 
so you must be looking for air not distance with this ramp.. Id also add a few more under ramp cross braces...
 
so you must be looking for air not distance with this ramp.. Id also add a few more under ramp cross braces...
I am looking for something that will get enough air for a backflip, so yes. We don't have a lot of distance to jump by the time you get a run up. And if we did want to do that we could always setup a ramp like we use now.

The bracing is only 18" apart. Right now we use a 2' x 4' sheet of 1/4" hardboard laid across blocks. It's a pain because the board constantly falls, but it does fine with no supports at all. The ramp I am having made will be much sturdier, but it is also designed to be light so a couple 9 year old kids can carry it, as I am disabled and couldn't help.
 
I would run some additional 1x1 bracing under the surface of the ramp in between the braces.
I thought of that. I could do that myself if need be. I was thinking if I just use some 1/4" x 1-1/2" stake boards running between the supports, and glue them in place, that would stiffen things up quite a bit. But I want to wait and see how it looks in slowmo video first. If I see any flex in the surface, I will add them. But I really don't think it will as this will all be screwed and glued together. And I think he will be using hardboard because he should have just enough left from my previous projects to do this. That stuff doesn't flex easily because it just doesn't stretch, which it would have to do to bow between the braces. Plus, I am thinking of adding a rubber surface, which will add more support when glued on. We shall see.
 
So I have been working with a local woodshop. This old guy is just loving the little projects I send him. The next one will be a ramp for the Kraton and our 1/10th stuff. Tell me if you think this looks ok.

The ramp board itself will either be 1/4" hardboard or hardwood plywood. We use 1/4" hardboard and blocks currently, so this will be a lot stronger. The goal is lightweight, but durable. The main supports will be cabinet grade (no voids) 3/4" plywood. The braces will be 1x3 pine lumber. Everything will have a finish to protect it from the weather, even though it won't see much weather.
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I like the design and I don't foresee an issue with it's ability to be able to hold up to 1/10 and 1/8 vehicles. My concern would be how structurally sound the ramp would actually be, when it's moved around and transported, over a period of time. Of course you can add more supports, but that could significantly increase the weight of the ramp.
 
I like the design and I don't foresee an issue with it's ability to be able to hold up to 1/10 and 1/8 vehicles. My concern would be how structurally sound the ramp would actually be, when it's moved around and transported, over a period of time. Of course you can add more supports, but that could significantly increase the weight of the ramp.
The boards going across the 3 plywood uprights are 1x3's. I had toyed with the idea of using 1x6's instead and having large holes cut every few inches to make them lighter but still maintaing a larger mounting surface. I am just in the quoting phase right now, so after he gives me a figure I will know how much more work I can add to the build. I am guessing with his previous prices this is going to cost less than $175. But that depends on the 3/4" high grade plywood cost.
 
The boards going across the 3 plywood uprights are 1x3's. I had toyed with the idea of using 1x6's instead and having large holes cut every few inches to make them lighter but still maintaing a larger mounting surface. I am just in the quoting phase right now, so after he gives me a figure I will know how much more work I can add to the build. I am guessing with his previous prices this is going to cost less than $175. But that depends on the 3/4" high grade plywood cost.
I was thinking wooden triangles at the 4 inner, right angle joints where the lower, outer cross brace and the 3 arch supports meets.
 
I was thinking wooden triangles at the 4 inner, right angle joints where the lower, outer cross brace and the 3 arch supports meets.
That is a good idea. I will add those. Actually, I could have some 1x2 braces going from the upper outside corners to the lower center support corner and he could dowel pin them in place. It would just mean a little more step-by-step assembly in a particular order be taken rather than just tossing it together.
 
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So I have been working with a local woodshop. This old guy is just loving the little projects I send him. The next one will be a ramp for the Kraton and our 1/10th stuff. Tell me if you think this looks ok.

The ramp board itself will either be 1/4" hardboard or hardwood plywood. We use 1/4" hardboard and blocks currently, so this will be a lot stronger. The goal is lightweight, but durable. The main supports will be cabinet grade (no voids) 3/4" plywood. The braces will be 1x3 pine lumber. Everything will have a finish to protect it from the weather, even though it won't see much weather.
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Looks awesome bud.. the measurements look good... with the bracing... you could leave as is just get some 1x1 or 1x2s like deck rail spindles.. and put them in between the two 18" bays..every couple inches..from top to bottom...that ramp is going to launch you to the moon🤣🤣🤣🤣
You also could make a jump with a hinged top so it will fold up for easier transport and storage..
 
Looks awesome bud.. the measurements look good... with the bracing... you could leave as is just get some 1x1 or 1x2s like deck rail spindles.. and put them in between the two 18" bays..every couple inches..from top to bottom...that ramp is going to launch you to the moon🤣🤣🤣🤣
You also could make a jump with a hinged top so it will fold up for easier transport and storage..
Folding would be great, but trying to keep this simple to keep the cost down. I looked at pre-made ramps and the good ones were all over $200+crazy shipping. I have a spot big enough in my spare room to store it standing on the 20" face anyway, so it shouldn't be much of a problem.
 
Folding would be great, but trying to keep this simple to keep the cost down. I looked at pre-made ramps and the good ones were all over $200+crazy shipping. I have a spot big enough in my spare room to store it standing on the 20" face anyway, so it shouldn't be much of a problem.
Oh yeah the ramps on line are crazy priced... but to make a foldable ramp really would be hard. You really only need the plywood and a strong piano hinge.. and then some triangle braces to slid under for support when jumping.... its a idea I am thinking about because there isn't always a good dirt mound or a natural jump always around.. I can show you my idea if you would like sir
 
...that ramp is going to launch you to the moon🤣🤣🤣🤣
That depends on the amount of throttle, of course 😉 I think the trajectory of the ramp is really ideal because at a really slow speed, you can just gently lob the car into the air and practice controlling the levelness of the car in midair to achieve those ideal flat 4 wheel landings.
 
That depends on the amount of throttle, of course 😉 I think the trajectory of the ramp is really ideal because at a really slow speed, you can just gently lob the car into the air and practice controlling the levelness of the car in midair to achieve those ideal flat 4 wheel landings.
I wasn't trying to say anything was bad about the ramp.. its awesome!!

But I get it.. your rite its all about throttle controller.. but that's with everything in RC... but not enough and he will just noise dive off the end like a lawn dart.🤣🤣 sorry I was thinking half/full balls to the wall launch.. off that wonderful ramp.. that's why I'm thinking of a foldable ramp... so you change the trajectory of the Rc..with how much angle and sloop you put to the ramp..the landing flat on wheels inst that hard..there is a little learning curve to it..but again that's all about the brake and throttle control as well... just keep in mind that
Brake brings down front
Gas bring down rear 👍👍👍
 
I wasn't trying to say anything was bad about the ramp.. its awesome!!

But I get it.. your rite its all about throttle controller.. but that's with everything in RC... but not enough and he will just noise dive off the end like a lawn dart.🤣🤣 sorry I was thinking half/full balls to the wall launch.. off that wonderful ramp.. that's why I'm thinking of a foldable ramp... so you change the trajectory of the Rc..with how much angle and sloop you put to the ramp..the landing flat on wheels inst that hard..there is a little learning curve to it..but again that's all about the brake and throttle control as well... just keep in mind that
Brake brings down front
Gas bring down rear 👍👍👍
I knew what you were meaning, I wasn't contradicting you.
But, yep, practicing brake and throttle control will keep that vehicle leveled for perfect landings.
 
That depends on the amount of throttle, of course 😉 I think the trajectory of the ramp is really ideal because at a really slow speed, you can just gently lob the car into the air and practice controlling the levelness of the car in midair to achieve those ideal flat 4 wheel landings.
Yeah, that was the thinking behind the 45 degree exit. I eyeballed where I thought the angle looked good for getting some air or like you said, slower jumps. It was around 46°, so I just rounded it to 45° for the guy at the woodshop. They don't like weird angles lol.
 
Yeah, that was the thinking behind the 45 degree exit. I eyeballed where I thought the angle looked good for getting some air or like you said, slower jumps. It was around 46°, so I just rounded it to 45° for the guy at the woodshop. They don't like weird angles lol.
You should just mess with them and initially ask for something like 43.7° 😁
 
You should just mess with them and initially ask for something like 43.7° 😁
Haha. He would tell me to stop sending him work, and I still have a couple more projects for him 😆
 

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