Question: RC10b74.1 vs. Rc10b74.2 is the .2 update worth another $200?

[BarnFabRC]

I’m thinking about moving up from my RB10 to a 4wd buggy. I’m still pretty green as a racer, In your opinion are the changes between the .1 & .2 worth the extra $200 for someone who isn’t a top tier driver?

Edit to add: since the season is coming to a close in a little while, would it be better to wait to see if there’s a new release from Associated? Or do the major retailers have any seasonal sales coming where I may be able to save a few bucks?

 

[bill_delong]

I run a very dated PR Racing 401R that was released in 2019 (that's 2 generations behind), and have been very competitive with it at the club level when I travel out of the area. I don't believe that the geometry has changed nearly as drastic as going from RM to MM in the 2WD's. Just don't skimp on tires nor electronics and you'll do perfectly fine with older tech in 4WD.

 

[DavidB1126]

In your opinion are the changes between the .1 & .2 worth the extra $200 for someone who isn’t a top tier driver?

Yes I think the .2 is better. 13mm shocks which will help and make a difference. Easier battery strap, gullwing front arms and shock tower (which I am upgrading to on my .1) updated chassis and some other things. The .1 was released in late 2020. .2 being released last October. If your locals track/s doesn't have a hobby shop I'd stock up on spare parts. Just in case you never know. With my .1 I got it for 300 dollars for Black Friday (since the .2 was just released and they were trying to get rid of the .1, which is still available today)
The only thing I broke so far is wings (I like the JConcepts wings, more durable and flexible than kit) front shock tower, front arm, and a steering block. Also bent the front sway bar but I got it close to bent back. Most of my breakages were on rough indoor clay tracks (The Track in Gburg and Beach RC) some of them were in my early racing days where my driving was very poor on indoor carpet. Lately my driving has improved greatly so I'm getting faster and not crashing and breaking. (besides my slash, that can be broken within 30 seconds of a race)

Things that I don't like about the .1 is the battery strap. Such a terrible design. It's not easy getting the battery out and in after races since you have to take out a screw. I think what AE were thinking about you leaving the battery in and charging it in the car. On the strap, there is a little hole for the balance port for your battery. I don't charge in the car most of the time, I do it when I'm trying to hurry or if my battery isn't that much discharged.

Next time I go to the carpet track for racing (which will be a while because of school stuff) 1 racer has a .2. I'll see if he can let me take it out for a spin. I'll see how I like it compared to my .1 (on the almost same set-up)

All in all, the .1 is a good starter car. But if you really want to get into racing alot and into the competitive side, the .2 will be best.

I just got the battery strap for the .2. Some people got it on their .1 with just Dremel the mud guards down and it should fit.

 

[STONER RC]

Yes I think the .2 is better. 13mm shocks which will help and make a difference. Easier battery strap, gullwing front arms and shock tower (which I am upgrading to on my .1) updated chassis and some other things. The .1 was released in late 2020. .2 being released last October. If your locals track/s doesn't have a hobby shop I'd stock up on spare parts. Just in case you never know. With my .1 I got it for 300 dollars for Black Friday (since the .2 was just released and they were trying to get rid of the .1, which is still available today)
The only thing I broke so far is wings (I like the JConcepts wings, more durable and flexible than kit) front shock tower, front arm, and a steering block. Also bent the front sway bar but I got it close to bent back. Most of my breakages were on rough indoor clay tracks (The Track in Gburg and Beach RC) some of them were in my early racing days where my driving was very poor on indoor carpet. Lately my driving has improved greatly so I'm getting faster and not crashing and breaking. (besides my slash, that can be broken within 30 seconds of a race)

Things that I don't like about the .1 is the battery strap. Such a terrible design. It's not easy getting the battery out and in after races since you have to take out a screw. I think what AE were thinking about you leaving the battery in and charging it in the car. On the strap, there is a little hole for the balance port for your battery. I don't charge in the car most of the time, I do it when I'm trying to hurry or if my battery isn't that much discharged.

Next time I go to the carpet track for racing (which will be a while because of school stuff) 1 racer has a .2. I'll see if he can let me take it out for a spin. I'll see how I like it compared to my .1 (on the almost same set-up)

All in all, the .1 is a good starter car. But if you really want to get into racing alot and into the competitive side, the .2 will be best.

I just got the battery strap for the .2. Some people got it on their .1 with just Dremel the mud guards down and it should fit.

Now that the way you do a comparison break done. Nicely said bud..

 

[Lumikko]

I’m thinking about moving up from my RB10 to a 4wd buggy. I’m still pretty green as a racer, In your opinion are the changes between the .1 & .2 worth the extra $200 for someone who isn’t a top tier driver?

Edit to add: since the season is coming to a close in a little while, would it be better to wait to see if there’s a new release from Associated? Or do the major retailers have any seasonal sales coming where I may be able to save a few bucks?

If you use the appropriate electronics and radio gear for this type of car, it’s going to be expensive no matter what. From there, you’re married to the running costs of a wheeler.

For people with the dough to spend, the B74.2 is worth it. You don’t have to be exceptionally wealthy (hell I have one) but if you’re on a budget and want to save money, going for the .1 is not going to make a big difference in the overall cost and other expenses.

A better plan to save money is to choose a B6.4 instead. It’s the current-spec racing machine and a whole lot more affordable to buy and run.

However, if a B74 is your itch only a .2 will scratch it right.

 

[tntpoof]

I've raced every brands 1/10 scale buggy from MRC to Xray last being my favorite. they all have run on dirt tracks to lum to indoor carpet. If you desire a certain vehicle just go for it you'll have fun with almost any 4wd buggy

 

[BarnFabRC]

Thanks for all the replies. I decided to go with the .1. My reasoning is I already have all the peripherals except wheels and tires. It’s a super low budget upgrade.

I ran at a carpet track for the first time with the RB10 last weekend and it was soooo much more enjoyable than the dirt with the 2wd. I’m going to pull the upgraded electronics from that and throw the stock reedy stuff back in.

The .1D will fill the roll for outdoor off-road. If I can get good enough to win a main with it then I’ll get myself the top of the line latest edition. So the .1D will be here Friday with a set of JConcepts sprinters and some white wheels. I’ll probably pick up an extra set of wheels and tires next time I’m at Pit Stop hobbies and another transponder.

What’s really gonna kill me is I probably won’t get to dig into the build until late next week. Damn adulting always getting in the way.

I’ll be starting a build thread after I get started. This’ll be my first full kit car at 45 years old. So I’m super excited to do the build. Even the Tamiyas I had as a kid I bought used and never got to build them myself.

 

[bill_delong]

wise decision, you're not going to get much faster with the latest version until you start hitting runs near the 99% consistency range

 

[BarnFabRC]

wise decision, you're not going to get much faster with the latest version until you start hitting runs near the 99% consistency range

Thanks. My biggest hurdle is distance. My closest outdoor track is an hour and a half away, so mid week practice sessions are a challenge. I really need to get out there for a few good sessions. I try to drive at least once a week, usually a parking lot with a mini auto cross track setup with cones. I feel it’s helpful for car control but I’m not getting the full experience with dusty clay and jumps. So I still struggle at the track.

 

[DavidB1126]

you're not going to get much faster with the latest version until you start hitting runs near the 99% consistency range

Right now I'm sitting between / average around 85 to 94ish %. Pretty good since I started racing back in June. With my .1, indoor carpet. Make some more setup changes and i might get a bit more better.

Thanks. My biggest hurdle is distance. My closest outdoor track is an hour and a half away, so mid week practice sessions are a challenge. I really need to get out there for a few good sessions. I try to drive at least once a week, usually a parking lot with a mini auto cross track setup with cones. I feel it’s helpful for car control but I’m not getting the full experience with dusty clay and jumps. So I still struggle at the track.

Yea that's the hard part. Where's the nearest local carpet track? Is it closer? Also did you get the normal version or the dirt version? I forgot to include this in my main post, but the dirt is a good overall car, most people now say center diff for dirt, clay and heck even all surfaces. With me on indoor carpet, just use some really thick center diff oils. Locals are running 1 million, even 1.5 million center. I am running 500K right now. About to change my setup to 1 mil.

 

[STONER RC]

Thanks for all the replies. I decided to go with the .1. My reasoning is I already have all the peripherals except wheels and tires. It’s a super low budget upgrade.

I ran at a carpet track for the first time with the RB10 last weekend and it was soooo much more enjoyable than the dirt with the 2wd. I’m going to pull the upgraded electronics from that and throw the stock reedy stuff back in.

The .1D will fill the roll for outdoor off-road. If I can get good enough to win a main with it then I’ll get myself the top of the line latest edition. So the .1D will be here Friday with a set of JConcepts sprinters and some white wheels. I’ll probably pick up an extra set of wheels and tires next time I’m at Pit Stop hobbies and another transponder.

What’s really gonna kill me is I probably won’t get to dig into the build until late next week. Damn adulting always getting in the way.

I’ll be starting a build thread after I get started. This’ll be my first full kit car at 45 years old. So I’m super excited to do the build. Even the Tamiyas I had as a kid I bought used and never got to build them myself.

Oh man you're in for some good Ole fashion RC car building good times. You are going to truly love building them from scratch. And watch you project go from tons of pieces in bags to a fully operational rc car. Then you get to go rip it down the road or across a feild for the first time....

Theres nothing like wrenching on RC's honestly. Built my first at age of 9 the tamyia grasshopper. of course. And been hooked and building/modifying them ever since. I've bought a few kits assembled.

But them ripped them apart. To add parts and new electronics and new motors and new nitro engines. That I would rather be in them.

Happy building and bashing/racing bud.. can't wait to see the build thread.

 

[hood52]

Congrats on the new ride, I enjoy building them just as much as racing them. Hopefully I will have my 4wd buggy at pitstop in September.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Yea that's the hard part. Where's the nearest local carpet track? Is it closer? Also did you get the normal version or the dirt version? I forgot to include this in my main post, but the dirt is a good overall car, most people now say center diff for dirt, clay and heck even all surfaces. With me on indoor carpet, just use some really thick center diff oils. Locals are running 1 million, even 1.5 million center. I am running 500K right now. About to change my setup to 1 mil.

Actually one just opened a little more than halfway between me a the dirt track. Haven’t been yet as it’s set up for on road currently. I’m following their FB though. Whenever they get the jumps built I’ll definitely be going to check it out. The carpet track I ran at was in upstate NY. So like a 3 hr drive. I just can’t believe there’s not an indoor place here in Philly. There’s so many empty warehouse buildings that are going to poop, any one of them could be a world class indoor track/hobby shop. If I had the money to scoop one up I’d do it myself. Or over in FDR park adjacent to the skatepark could be an outdoor track underneath I-95. That would be awesome.

 

[Lumikko]

Sounds reasonable and I’m sure you’ll enjoy the .1 as well.

When building the kit, check that the inner bearings on the steering blocks work correctly after pressing them in. The bearing cups on two pairs of steering blocks were slightly oval on mine and I had to ream them to get the front axles turn smoothly. The ”reamer” I used was a valve stem nut for a Schrader valve.

I mention this because many build guides don’t cover this tip.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Sounds reasonable and I’m sure you’ll enjoy the .1 as well.

When building the kit, check that the inner bearings on the steering blocks work correctly after pressing them in. The bearing cups on two pairs of steering blocks were slightly oval on mine and I had to ream them to get the front axles turn smoothly. The ”reamer” I used was a valve stem nut for a Schrader valve.

I mention this because many build guides don’t cover this tip.

Started digging into it tonight. Only problem I found so far was one of the diff screws for the center diff never got the hex broached into it. (Think of a nail with M2.5 threads ) I dug a suitable replacement out of the cup-o-spares. So far a super smooth assembly. I called it quits at Bag 11. Wasn’t getting started on building a set of shocks at 11:30pm. Took a bunch of pics I’ll throw them into a build thread tomorrow. Time for bed now!

Here’s where I’m at so far.

 

[STONER RC]

Started digging into it tonight. Only problem I found so far was one of the diff screws for the center diff never got the hex broached into it. (Think of a nail with M2.5 threads ) I dug a suitable replacement out of the cup-o-spares. So far a super smooth assembly. I called it quits at Bag 11. Wasn’t getting started on building a set of shocks at 11:30pm. Took a bunch of pics I’ll throw them into a build thread tomorrow. Time for bed now!

Here’s where I’m at so far.

View attachment 170226

Looking good man!!

Definitely agree with ya, to start building RC shocks at 11:30pm could end up to be more of a headache. Then a fun project they can be....

Since you found the messed up screw. Have you gone threw all the parts/screws? To see if anything else isn't missing or not 100% correct. Just to be sure before continuing.

Like @Lumikko mentioned about his steering blocks. being oval. And his tip to fix. Nicely done sir..

You wouldn't want to get way into the build. Just to find something else missing or messed up. And then throw the brakes on your build.

Another tip: I usually spread out all the parts being used in the build. And go over them to make sure its all there. And there isn't anything missing or out of place.

Also you can check the parts to make sure, they are smooth and clean of any excess plastic from being molded at factory.

Happy building bud

 

[BarnFabRC]

I’ve been going bag by bag spreading it out and then organizing all the screws and turnbuckles etc. by length. Makes each step go really quickly. Hoping to get back into it tonight I’d like to get at least all the electronics mounted and tires glued. I’ll do all the wiring in between coats on the body. I have to have some other task to do when painting. I’m too impatient and never wait long enough between coats then pull the masks too early and it gets all messed up.

 

[STONER RC]

I’ve been going bag by bag spreading it out and then organizing all the screws and turnbuckles etc. by length. Makes each step go really quickly. Hoping to get back into it tonight I’d like to get at least all the electronics mounted and tires glued. I’ll do all the wiring in between coats on the body. I have to have some other task to do when painting. I’m too impatient and never wait long enough between coats then pull the masks too early and it gets all messed up.

Oh I'm not a fan of haven to paint the lexan bodies. They can be a PITA for sure. Your not the only one, that doesn't have patience to let paint dry. Especially with all the coats that you have to put on them... happy building and well done sir

 

[Lumikko]

Another potential issue I just noticed: the center diff has four tabs for the spur gear screws. The tabs should fit into the recess on the spur gear but the fit was so tight that it pushed the spur gear out of round.

Just a bit of sanding on the outside of the tabs was enough to make the fit snug without deforming the spur gear.

(This is unlikely to be a real problem for most users – I’m not neurotic but very careful.)

Pictures of the steering block I mentioned earlier, before and after reaming:

 

[BarnFabRC]

Another potential issue I just noticed: the center diff has four tabs for the spur gear screws. The tabs should fit into the recess on the spur gear but the fit was so tight that it pushed the spur gear out of round.

Just a bit of sanding on the outside of the tabs was enough to make the fit snug without deforming the spur gear.

(This is unlikely to be a real problem for most users – I’m not neurotic but very careful.)

Pictures of the steering block I mentioned earlier, before and after reaming:

View attachment 170263

View attachment 170264

Awesome tip! I was running into this issue but didn’t have time to look into it further. I will definitely check closely. Waiting on some paint and the actual motor that will be going in. I had a castle 540 motor in it but decided it needed a proper 13.5. Got a Trinity “Slot Machine.” I should be able to take it out next weekend. Body is all masked and trimmed wiring is just about sorted. I’m stoked to give it a go!

I need to grab some braided sheathing from my shop this week to dress the transponder and ESC wires. I got them all shortened appropriately and new ends crimped on. It’s gonna look real clean I think. Hopefully I don’t bastardize the paint job if I end up getting another transponder it’s definitely gonna be the black one!