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Ninnon, I have a Novarossi P5 clio. I did the heat cycling method on it, tuned it nearly to race tune and have not even finish a 30% gallon after a single race ( two 10 mins. Of Qualifying and a 35 mins. Bmain run) the engine wear becomes too lose like I can easily turn the flywheel w/ my finger, its brand new engine I bought in Amainhobbies. What do you think is the mistake that I made from the beggining?
 
Doing a break-in and then tuning it for racing will destroy an engine in no time, especially on 30%. Competitive racers are usually sponsored and free engines are available for them.
If you want your engine to last you'll need to run a minimum of a gallon before race tuning. Unfortunately, tuning for absolute performance means running lean and that deprives the engine of needed lube plus it adds additional heat.
 
Doing a break-in and then tuning it for racing will destroy an engine in no time, especially on 30%. Competitive racers are usually sponsored and free engines are available for them.
If you want your engine to last you'll need to run a minimum of a gallon before race tuning. Unfortunately, tuning for absolute performance means running lean and that deprives the engine of needed lube plus it adds additional heat.

So that was my mistake, i did not take my time to fully broken in my engine b4 i race tune it. Next time i will be very patient. Would it be fine for this same engine to use the same 30% nitro w/ 11% lubricant if I will add a .04mm head shim? Because 25% is till not available here in UAE.

One more thing Rolex, since I still have a 3 quarts gal. Of this 30%, do u suggest or is it ok to use this to my new nova Vir-tus full break in process? What I mean is, I will add 1 head shim and will be using cold nova glow plug and will finish the full 20-25 minutes of heat cycling method then head to the track for practise run in reach side until I finish the 3/4 gal. Of 30% nitro fuel? I'm planning to race tune it w/ 25% when ever it is available here in Dubai.
 
It's not mandatory but often advised to break in an engine with the same fuel mix you intend to run with. Heat cycling is part of every run, even when the engine is old. At the end of running, ALWAYS turn the flywheel to place the piston at BDC, or Bottom Dead Center.
If you bring the piston to it's absolute bottom and mark the top of the flywheel, you'll always know where it is when it's off.

bdc.webp
 
It's not mandatory but often advised to break in an engine with the same fuel mix you intend to run with. Heat cycling is part of every run, even when the engine is old. At the end of running, ALWAYS turn the flywheel to place the piston at BDC, or Bottom Dead Center.
If you bring the piston to it's absolute bottom and mark the top of the flywheel, you'll always know where it is when it's off.

View attachment 17106

Lol... I also was going to suguest that!...Because that helps preserve some of the pinch.
 
Ninnon, I have a Novarossi P5 clio. I did the heat cycling method on it, tuned it nearly to race tune and have not even finish a 30% gallon after a single race ( two 10 mins. Of Qualifying and a 35 mins. Bmain run) the engine wear becomes too lose like I can easily turn the flywheel w/ my finger, its brand new engine I bought in Amainhobbies. What do you think is the mistake that I made from the beggining?
Even once you've done the full break in, it isn't complete yet. The engine needs more time to fully settle in, so going straight to race environment will destroy it.
 
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