Pre-emptive guide to abandoned nitro...

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mzanzirc

RCTalk Champion
Messages
209
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110
Location
South Africa
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
As I am on the lookout for a abandoned/barn find nitro car, what would the best course of action be for a engine that has been standing for years?

Whenever I find one, for me I will first yank off all the old fuel lines, replace the glow plug and go over the electronics. But what about the engine? Should I pull the engine and take it apart? Or after replacing fuel lines and glow plug attempt to just start it?

I watched some of the RCBiker videos and if the engine is stuck, heat it up ect to get it loose seems like a good way to loosen up the engine.

Any suggestions welcome. :)
 
Always a good idea to look ar the motor. Pistons and spark pligs can speak volumes. Even if its a new motor or a good one sitting. I atleast pull the top and drip some 3in1 to get it rotating smoothly.

Also a good idea to check bearings. A bad bearing can be an air leak or an involved rebuild meaning your spending money on a new piston and sleeve.

What cars are you looking for?
 
Always a good idea to look ar the motor. Pistons and spark pligs can speak volumes. Even if its a new motor or a good one sitting. I atleast pull the top and drip some 3in1 to get it rotating smoothly.

Also a good idea to check bearings. A bad bearing can be an air leak or an involved rebuild meaning your spending money on a new piston and sleeve.

What cars are you looking for?
Thanks for the advice.

I want to do a sort of restoration job, but as this will be my first nitro, I do not want to spend big money and end up hating it. If i like it, I guess I can work my way up to something better.
Looking for a nitro buggy. I like the look and it seems they are more popular in the cheap second hand market here in SA.
 
Thanks for the advice.

I want to do a sort of restoration job, but as this will be my first nitro, I do not want to spend big money and end up hating it. If i like it, I guess I can work my way up to something better.
Looking for a nitro buggy. I like the look and it seems they are more popular in the cheap second hand market here in SA.

Dude I’m not gonna lie, for your first nitro…a restoration will probably not be your best choice. I say that because if it’s an older model, parts support is probably non existent and it could turn into a nightmare. Sure, a used platform might start off cheap, but I promise you that you will spend double your budget on just getting it going. Now,if money isn’t an issue and you just want to dive right in and restore and fix something and learn right away, then go for it. But, restoring a barn find nitro will not be cheap in anyway most likely. Trust me, I’ve been down that road.
 
Dude I’m not gonna lie, for your first nitro…a restoration will probably not be your best choice. I say that because if it’s an older model, parts support is probably non existent and it could turn into a nightmare. Sure, a used platform might start off cheap, but I promise you that you will spend double your budget on just getting it going. Now,if money isn’t an issue and you just want to dive right in and restore and fix something and learn right away, then go for it. But, restoring a barn find nitro will not be cheap in anyway most likely. Trust me, I’ve been down that road.
Agree.
When restoring old nitros, 3d printing and knowing how to machine parts yourself will most likely be needed, unless you can still source parts for it from somewhere, but they usually aint cheap.
 
I would always take the engine apart after years of sitting or if it came from someone else with no history of it!
Even though an after run oil or lube has been added ,it does break down in time an become very sticky ,engine
should be taken apart an soaked in denatured alcohol or something that will cut the gunk & fresh lube put on
everything like 3 & 1 oil ,while apart ,you can also check the pinch of the sleeve an wear & tear of it!..👍😎
 
Agree.
When restoring old nitros, 3d printing and knowing how to machine parts yourself will most likely be needed, unless you can still source parts for it from somewhere, but they usually aint cheap.
For sure man. Maybe I’m a bit jaded, but I have a team losi LST and parts are INSANE for it. People want 100$ for a gas tank, forward only conversions are 100$ now, people want 200$ for original bodies, and the list goes on. It’s insane. I love the truck but I drive it for a tank once every 4 months and just let it be.

To the original poster, when you said you wanted a used nitro buggy, are you talking a 1/8 racing platform? You can find those for good prices. I have a buddy I race with who literally buys used platforms and engines, fixes them up, then races them for cheap and he does great. If you are talking about those, then it is a possibility to get them going for cheap, but it will still be 500-600$ realistically. New, all the kits and engines and pipes, radios, and servos could run you well over 1500$.
 
As I am on the lookout for a abandoned/barn find nitro car, what would the best course of action be for a engine that has been standing for years?

Whenever I find one, for me I will first yank off all the old fuel lines, replace the glow plug and go over the electronics. But what about the engine? Should I pull the engine and take it apart? Or after replacing fuel lines and glow plug attempt to just start it?

I watched some of the RCBiker videos and if the engine is stuck, heat it up ect to get it loose seems like a good way to loosen up the engine.

Any suggestions welcome. :)
I agree 100% with @cbaker65 . First thing is break down the engine 100%. Rite down to the crank shaft. Check inside and out and the carb. I personally have never used any sort of after run oil. And I've never had any issues with my nitros. I also turn then over every couple weeks keeps things moving. And alway keep the piston out of the sleeve while on the shelf..
For sure man. Maybe I’m a bit jaded, but I have a team losi LST and parts are INSANE for it. People want 100$ for a gas tank, forward only conversions are 100$ now, people want 200$ for original bodies, and the list goes on. It’s insane. I love the truck but I drive it for a tank once every 4 months and just let it be.

To the original poster, when you said you wanted a used nitro buggy, are you talking a 1/8 racing platform? You can find those for good prices. I have a buddy I race with who literally buys used platforms and engines, fixes them up, then races them for cheap and he does great. If you are talking about those, then it is a possibility to get them going for cheap, but it will still be 500-600$ realistically. New, all the kits and engines and pipes, radios, and servos could run you well over 1500$.
100% with both of ya. Parts for older RC's is ridiculous. Well the y call them vintage if it's before 2000 these days. So the fuel tank. Why don't you just get a new tank that will fit or one that you can make a bracket for to mount to the Losi?? It's definitely doable 👍👍
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.

If I come across some, I will def first check parts availability. If I cannot find anything I'll move on.

I'm looking at a 1/8th scale buggy yes. There are plenty here available, but for some reason people want to ask a premium for a abused RC. Not cool. Will keep looking! :)

There is someone selling a HPI Savage roller sans motor for $103 here in SA. I guess I could take him up and get a new motor for it.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys.

If I come across some, I will def first check parts availability. If I cannot find anything I'll move on.

I'm looking at a 1/8th scale buggy yes. There are plenty here available, but for some reason people want to ask a premium for a abused RC. Not cool. Will keep looking! :)

There is someone selling a HPI Savage roller sans motor for $103 here in SA. I guess I could take him up and get a new motor for it.
Honestly it's insane with the prices people ask for. Thag would be your best bet. Would be pick up a roller or slider. And throw a brand new "ENGINE". Electric RC's have motors. Nitros have ENGINES. Yes there is a difference..

"ENGINES" run on fuel nitro gas methanol

"MOTOR" run on battery lipo NiMh
NicH
 
I agree 100% with @cbaker65 . First thing is break down the engine 100%. Rite down to the crank shaft. Check inside and out and the carb. I personally have never used any sort of after run oil. And I've never had any issues with my nitros. I also turn then over every couple weeks keeps things moving. And alway keep the piston out of the sleeve while on the shelf..

100% with both of ya. Parts for older RC's is ridiculous. Well the y call them vintage if it's before 2000 these days. So the fuel tank. Why don't you just get a new tank that will fit or one that you can make a bracket for to mount to the Losi?? It's definitely doable 👍👍
Man I’m lucky enough to have two tanks NEw in package that I got well over a year ago,and the tank I have installed has maybe a gallon on it? And was new when I’m installed. I’m good in the tank department. But for newbies looking for vintage nitros I just wanted to let them know what they were getting into. Now that I know that homie is looking into used 1/8 scale buggies, as long as they are relatively recent models then parts are easy to find and it’s very doable to get them fixed up in my opinion, for most brands anyway.
 
So I found some really nasty RC's from a guy selling.

1 x Tamiya TNX (engine does not turn over)
1 x Nanda Raptor (engine does not turn over)
1 x Savage X (no engine)

I would have taken either the Nanda or Tamiya if parts are available, but alas, my LHS does not stock Nanda spares and cannot get any TNX parts anymore.
The Savage...meh. I'm not keen to drop $200+ on a new engine for a what looks to be a abused RC.

I'm all for at least getting a rough around the edges RC to make like new again, but I'm not buying trash. :)
 
Right....so I found a new RC. Hobao Hyper 7 nitro for $80. The car is running but missing transmitter and receiver (no big deal). The chassis underneath looks clean. No scratches. Car looks clean. The guy is cleaning out his collection.

Any comments on the Hyper 7? I can still find parts for it.
 
I would gladly hook you up on an 8th scale off-road project!

Id need to see that hyper 7 and verify that's what it is, because if so, JUMP on that.

Alot of sellers mistake another model as a hyper 7 I see it all the time
 
I would gladly hook you up on an 8th scale off-road project!

Id need to see that hyper 7 and verify that's what it is, because if so, JUMP on that.

Alot of sellers mistake another model as a hyper 7 I see it all the time
Here are some pics of it.
 

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Yeah, that isnt the original hyper 7, if it was, it would be a steal!

thats a TQ, not the same as a real hyper 7 original, but parts are cheaper and still on ebay.

Hell i have a brand new chassis for it
 
Yeah, that isnt the original hyper 7, if it was, it would be a steal!

thats a TQ, not the same as a real hyper 7 original, but parts are cheaper and still on ebay.

Hell i have a brand new chassis for it
Cool thanks for the tip.

School me a bit on the differences between the Hyper and the TQ? :)
Both are Hobao correct? Is it still ok to buy for that price?
 
Also, that Go engine is junk, might be okay to play around with, had 2 before, .21 and .28,

Impossible to tune, prone to bad air leaks, front bearing leaks, and everywhere possible.

Just wanted to inform you, i spent ungodly amounts of time with chasing leaks, irratic lean conditions, and I am a nitro veteran.
Cool thanks for the tip.

School me a bit on the differences between the Hyper and the TQ? :)
Both are Hobao correct? Is it still ok to buy for that price?
the original hyper 7 has far better quality of parts, more aluminum bits, just not the same.


Those are sought after and bring the money, one of my all time favorites.

the tq is a budget entry level buggy, unless its a Pro.

For 80 bux man, it's worth it!
 
Also, that Go engine is junk, might be okay to play around with, had 2 before, .21 and .28,

Impossible to tune, prone to bad air leaks, front bearing leaks, and everywhere possible.

Just wanted to inform you, i spent ungodly amounts of time with chasing leaks, irratic lean conditions, and I am a nitro veteran.

the original hyper 7 has far better quality of parts, more aluminum bits, just not the same.


Those are sought after and bring the money, one of my all time favorites.

the tq is a budget entry level buggy, unless its a Pro.

For 80 bux man, it's worth it!
Thanks for the candid advice.

Hmmm. For $80 I might get it and decide to drop another engine into it later on. But for now I will be just be messing around with it. :)
 

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