Please help me get my R/c tuned

[charliejp]

Reading back over this I saw myltiple issues. Linkage, servo, tune, clutch... I just recalled that we never really adressed the linkage. I know my rigs don't run right if everything isn't in harmony.

 

[truggy83]

do you think the servo needs replaced? Should it have more travel than it does? I believe the high speed needle is adjusted right and the idle speed needle is adjusted right. It was reving up before dying when I pinched the throttle so I guess the low speed idle is ok too. Is there any adjustments on the carb that would change the idle speed besides the idle speed adjustment? If so maybe the idle can be turned down using the high or low speed needle? It does seem like it is idling on the higher end alittle bit which you think would make the clutch shoes engage. It was just running a few days ago when I wrecked it.

 

[smkynutz]

Ok. Heres some pics of my stampede. The q-tip is to hold the fuel line outta the way for pic purpose only...

This is at the neutral position, no throttle or brake applied. Notice the brake linkage, you have the rubber adjuster in the wrong place. And your horn angle on your servo is to far to the brake position.

This is full bore wide open throttle. Check for range of movement on your servo. It may have been damaged in your wreck.

And this is servo in full brake. Again notice the range of movement. Check your range with the linkages removed, then put them on the same as mine. Throttle on top, brake on bottom. Move your rubber stopper to left side of brake lever and adjust everything feom there.

Ths is a video of the range of movement.
Also while you have linkages disconnected, make sure your carb isnt binding up at all. It should move freely from 1mm at idle to dang near wide open.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFxyUthXGIY"]YouTube - Stampede[/ame]

 

[truggy83]

thanks dude I will check mine out when I get home and post what I find and change. May I ask what the tubing is for at the end of the car on the brake throttle? Mine doesn't have that either. I am guessing I could maybe just use extra fuel line to put on there? Is that to help the brakes come on quicker?

 

[truggy83]

here is the reason the car would accelerate at idle.

 

[truggy83]

Got the throttle linkage and brakes hooked up similar to in your video. I think the servo might be going bad. One minute it will open more than the other and it is twitchy.

 

[charliejp]

That's looking a lot better. Never set the idle with the trim though. Try adjusting/the idle screw while holding the brake. This should give you a definite idle. The servo appeared to be slightly twitchy but not as bad as I was thinking. You were putting a lot of strain on it by not having the tubing on the linkage. Fixed that. I think you're almost there!

 

[smkynutz]

Ok, first of all, you've been carrying that tube around for the entire time. It's on the break linkage rod where it bends and makes the "s" shape. The fuel line is pretty sweet though. Now about your clutch, the shoes are fine, the bell is fine, the spring could be fixed by bending a new hook on the end, so save it in case you need it in a pinch. Is this a 2.4 ghz or the old style with an eye gouger antenna (ya know the 3 foot metal rod on you controller that'll stab your eyes out...lol). If its the older style your servos will twitch when your really close to the truck, or if your cell phone is close to it also. I noticed my iphone caused some interference today when i was snapping the pics.
The carb, it looks pretty close. i would put that power-plant back on your rig, with the needles set back to factory, print out the flow chart for tuning, and try again. I've done 2 of the "i got this thing used from a guy that hasn't ran it for a long time..." projects, and i learned alot. Your getting close, now we just gotta see if your idle comes down. Have you sealed your engine?

Here is the link for the tuning flow chart:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

and check this out:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87194

 

[truggy83]

Ok, first of all, you've been carrying that tube around for the entire time. It's on the break linkage rod where it bends and makes the "s" shape. The fuel line is pretty sweet though. Now about your clutch, the shoes are fine, the bell is fine, the spring could be fixed by bending a new hook on the end, so save it in case you need it in a pinch. Is this a 2.4 ghz or the old style with an eye gouger antenna (ya know the 3 foot metal rod on you controller that'll stab your eyes out...lol). If its the older style your servos will twitch when your really close to the truck, or if your cell phone is close to it also. I noticed my iphone caused some interference today when i was snapping the pics.
The carb, it looks pretty close. i would put that power-plant back on your rig, with the needles set back to factory, print out the flow chart for tuning, and try again. I've done 2 of the "i got this thing used from a guy that hasn't ran it for a long time..." projects, and i learned alot. Your getting close, now we just gotta see if your idle comes down. Have you sealed your engine?

Here is the link for the tuning flow chart:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

and check this out:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87194

Lol I didn't even notice it on the linkakge there. It was hidden in plain site. I will keep the spring as a backup but today I am getting a new one. This has a futaba ms receiver on it and the tx has an eye gouger antenna. I will shoot a video once it is driveable and we can try and get the idle down. I am allitle afraid to readjust the carb settings. I went through hours trying to get the settings right so it even start. Now I got it to a point where it will start up pretty easy. Can I use rtv sealant to seal the engine? I did do a leak test on the engine when I first got it and it doesn't have any leaks.

 

[truggy83]

also after watching the video I see they put a zip tie around the around a rubber piece on the carb. I guess I dont have to do that step as mine does not have a rubber piece like that installed on it? I would just have to do the pinch bolt, back plate and the carb stem like they did?