Picco 26 maxx re dot running issues

[minmax89]

Picco 26 maxx red dot running issues

Hi all.

I've just pulled out my T-maxx after it sitting in the cupboard for too long!

It wasn't running well last year and after putting it away due to frustration, I've a new found vigour and gonna give it another shot.

I bought the thing second hand and the original 3.3 was wrecked by the previous owner so I ended up getting a Picco .26 Maxx Red dot for it. Everything else is stock apart from a trx resonator pipe. From what I can remember it ran fine during run in and after that but at some stage the current problem began. I'll try and explain...

It fires and idles pretty steady. As i apply very steady throttle and the clutch engages the truck begins to move. I can get it to move along real slow but if I stab the throttle it immediately cuts out! Or if the engine is put under any pressure (going up a slight hill) it cuts out immediately.

I've everything sealed with copper silicone grease. I've checked the pressure and fuel pipe for leaks and they're fine. I'm convinced it may be the carb. I just don't know what exactly!!! The carb is pretty pants to be honest and would love to upgrade. There seems to be a slight jump/notch on the movement sometimes at mid travel so don't know whether that is the problem...

Anyway, can anyone help cos I'm really becoming disheartened with Nitro altogether. I hope the above explains, if not I must try and get it on video.

Adam

 

[hamz9561]

It sounds like there's a problem with the needle settings. Try setting them back to stock and then tuning the low speed needle (LSN) until it takes off smartly. Once you have it taking off, then try leaning the high speed needle (HSN) one hour at a time. Make sure that your temps at the glow plug are in the 230-250* F.

 

[minmax89]

Jeez, that makes sense now. I'm gonna try that tomorrow. I can't remember anymore where the needles are in relation to factory settings.

mmm, I'll check that first.

Guess I'll use these settings then?
http://www.ofna.com/guide-tune-basics.html
bottom of page? The .26 maxx.

 

[Extreme RC Mods]

If it starts then don't go back to factory settings, chances aare they will be farther from a good tune then what you have now. The needles do sound like they need adjustment but along with that, you need a new pipe as the 3.3 pipe will choke that engine. Get a video, it will make things 10X more easy for us to help diagnose what the issue is. How much fuel have you run through the engine? picco's generally take at least a gallon before you can put any kind of performance tune on them.

 

[minmax89]

Cheers guys. I will get a video of it tonight and hopefully that will explain a little better.

When I think of it I've probably only had around 5 tanks of fuel through this engine from new. That's including the break in procedure. Suppose that amounts to about a third of a gallon.

I'm so very new to this nitro engine tuning that I'm still totally text book and have not yet got the 'feel' of fine tuning. Because of this I've always had a good stream of smoke from the exhaust.

 

[2revo1maxx]

I would start by turning the high speed needle out 1/2 a turn, and see what that does. If nothing changes, put in a new plug.

 

[HPI-Killer]

can't the wrong plug do similar actions though i.e running cold plugs in winter and such?

 

[2revo1maxx]

A cooler plug is a good idea in cold weather, but a medium should work in most situations.
You may have a carb problem too, those carbs are known to leak where metal meets plastic. It wouldn't hurt to use some lucky seven on it.

 

[minmax89]

Well I was all ready to go out and do what I was doing yesterday to take a video and all. Wouldn't start and started to struggle to turn over. Battery was dead in roto start!!!

So no video tonight lads.

Quick question: should the flywheel be moving at all when turning over. It was 'twitiching' a little. Thought there may have been a small problem with the clutch. so took out the engine, whipped off the bell and all is good there.

while it was off though I did notice a lot of oily deposit all over the fuel tank where the LSN is.

The fuel I have is this:

The guy I get it off says he mixes it himself and he likes it to be on the oily side! He's not wrong!!!

The fuel/oil mix is all over this area:

I guess that doesn't mean much. I think it's leaking a little from here:

Sorry about the awful pics. Camera on phone is wrecked.

Anyway, I'm putting it back together and will give it another shot tomorrow after battery is charged.

With regards to the plug, I've a Medium in it and the weather was lovely and warm yesterday. Which is good for Ireland!!!

 

[2revo1maxx]

I think you should try to richen the high speed needle and see if it stops cutting out.

 

[minmax89]

Yes you may be right. I looked at the stock settings from that OFNA page and it says LSN is 7.5 turns out and HSN should be flush. I checked mine and the LSN is 6.5 turns out and the HSN was about 1mm below flush. I know this may not mean anything like you said earlier but it's food for thought. So I've left the LSN where it is and opened the HSN back up to flush.

On another note I'm just putting it back together and checked the Glow plug with the glow starter and it was sizzling and spitting out after run oil!!! Ooops! forgot to leave that out when doing the afterrun proceedure last night.

Can you recommend a good glow plug for this engine?

 

[Snook Man]

The flywheel should be turning anytime you engage the roto start. A twitchy flywheel when the roto start is engaged indicates the OWB may be slipping or another part of the starting system/roto start.
Heavy oil content fuel will often cause the OWB to slip. You should also find the leak before you run the engine.

 

[minmax89]

what is the OWB?


Sorry, it's the One Wa Bearing isn't it. I thought there may be something wrong with that...

 

[Extreme RC Mods]

Glow plug temp has nothing to do with the ambient temperature, the heat range will dictate when the ignition happens IE hot = advanced and cold = retarded. I recommend a HOT plug for break-in. I would also ditch that fuel and get some name brand fuel, who knows what mixture he has in there, it could really make things tough on you. The engine will not be broken in with only 1/3 of a gallon, picco's take at least 1 full gallon before they are can be tuned properly and often won't fully wake up until 2-3 gallons have been run through them. They aren't like the average RTR engine that can break in with a few tanks, the piston and chrome are substantially harder then the rtr engines and require a lot more run time to break in properly.

 

[REVO-5309]

I was about to say the same about the fuel.

 

[2revo1maxx]

All I meant was if you run a hot plug on a cold day with high nitro and/or lack of shimming you could have detonation. I've always used medium plugs in my picco, but I won't run anything below 50°f.

 

[minmax89]

...I would also ditch that fuel and get some name brand fuel, who knows what mixture he has in there...

I was about to say the same about the fuel.

Could you please explain why this fuel would be no good? It's brand new and trying to find a fuel supplier here in Ireland is as rare as rocking horse s**t! I've to get all my T-maxx spares from the UK from wheelspinmodels but they won't post fuel to Ireland.
I used to get HPI Racing fuel from a shop that is now closed. So the only place I've currently got is Green Hobby Model.

Would you mind Extreme RC Mods going on that site and clicking fuel on the left pane. All the info on their fuel is there. Please tell me that its ok as, as stated, it's my only supplier!!!

And I think I may have a problem with my OWB. Not sure if it's covered in oil and thus slipping or actually fooked!

 

[minmax89]

Actually I just looked at that page.

The fuel I have (as in the picture above) is the GX-25. It has 25% Nitro and 20% Castor oil. The guy their said it would be kinder to my engine and I was trying to look after my Picco from the start so said yep!

Do you think I should be using some of their synthetic stuff? I was thinking their Special YS 25:22 which has 25% Nitro, 20% EDL, 2% castor.

etc. etc.

 

[CupraR]

Minmax

I personally think the oil content is too high.

I was first running Byrons RTR fuel in my .26Max and had all kinds of tuning issues. It was all over the place. Swapped to Byrons Race 2500 and instantly transformed it, much easier to tune, ran better and cleaner. I have had much success running a hot glow plug too, regardless of outside temps.

I know this probably doesn't really help you as you seem to have your hands tied a little with suppliers.

Picco recommend an oil content of 8-10%. 6% of the oil content should ideally be castor oil and to have 25% Nitro. Think I may get some custom mixed by Optifuel.

---------- Post added at 8:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:42 PM ----------

I have always been led to believe high oil content nitro fuel like that is for planes and heli's.

The JL Redot is a race engine. Don't stifle it with too much oil.

Again, I suppose this is just my opinion.

 

[Extreme RC Mods]

Any internal OWB gets soaked in oil, they even come greased from factory. The issue is the roto starter as it will hammer it until it cracks and then starts slipping, put a new owb and pull start on it and the problem probably won't happen again. As for the fuel... see if he will mix you some 5% castor and 5% synthetic MAX, they will probably argue with you but that's what I would run as 18% is just overkill and is best left to the planes. You may be able to get it to run but it will not perform to it's potential with that much oil.