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Painting Question.

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Bkyd Basher

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Hey Guys i painted my first body a while ago and it came out descent, just a simple two color paint job. I used spray cans and had a little problem through the my first end over end wreck. As the body flexed the paint came loose from the body and came off. Is this something i did wrong or just what happens,it seems that it just didnt bond very well i guess. I would like to try another one but dont want to waste my time if they wont take any abuse.Any Help thanks.
 
i used the Tamiya PS-24 Fluorescent Orange Lexan Spray Paint. By Back it u mean cover the whole truck with coat?
 
You paint the inside of the lexan over the Orange paint so that the inside is black.
 
Yup did that. Could it be possible the paint was to thick, to many coats?I Can push down in the middle of the hood and watch the paint loosen from the lexan.
 
As already mentioned, 'off the rack' paints do not bond properly to lexan, nor do they flex, causing them to peel off.
First of all, you need to THOROUGHLY wash the inside of the body with dish washing soap and rinse with lots of warm water. Then wipe it down with denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol. There are mold release agents that will prevent the paint from sticking if you don't clean them off really good.
I'm pretty sure that Krylon is the only 'off the rack' paint that will work with Lexan.
 
Yup did each and every one of those steps. I just figured because it says Especially made for decorating transparent Polycarbonate(Lexan) rc and Model bodies it would work. And as i mentioned it looked good until a little flex than it just peeled off.
 
The only other thing that I do is to scuff the inside with a scratch pad to give the pint something to grab on.
 
When u scuff it doesn't it show through when painted? I actually didnt buy any black for the windows so i used Krylon Fusion paint and thats the only part that stuck. Problem is is that they dont have a huge display of colors like the model paint companys.
 
Last edited:
Basher, here's the dilly yo...

I don't care how well you clean the body and whether you scuff or not ( I personally don't scuff), the single most effective way to prevent flaking is in your application. Light (and I mean LIGHT) coats will create a significantly better bond to the body than a few medium coats. Go light and you'll be rewarded I promise.
 
Thats what i figure went wrong, a few heavy coats is what i did. Theres only one way to find out,try and get the rest of the paint off clean it up and go at it again:)
 
I agree. I have never scuffed any bodies, and I've done dozens through the years. I never had one peel.
Your first few coats should be what I call "Ghost coats." Just misty and see through without looking for total coverage. Allow complete dry time in between.
 
Ok thanks alot guys. One lastthing any idea how to get the rest of the paint of without scratching the hell out of it?
 
Basher, here's the dilly yo...

I don't care how well you clean the body and whether you scuff or not ( I personally don't scuff), the single most effective way to prevent flaking is in your application. Light (and I mean LIGHT) coats will create a significantly better bond to the body than a few medium coats. Go light and you'll be rewarded I promise.


I don't scuff either, but I take the time to clean the lid well with soap and water first then da. If you don't clean off the mold release, even light coats can come off. But I do agree, light coats is the only way to go, thick coats are gonna come off even if you do clean the lid properly.
 
I don't scuff either, but I take the time to clean the lid well with soap and water first then da. If you don't clean off the mold release, even light coats can come off. But I do agree, light coats is the only way to go, thick coats are gonna come off even if you do clean the lid properly.

Oh yes, I wash mine well too. Not saying its not important, just that application is more important. IMO. I personally don't do the DA thing though.
 
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