OS 10-e rotary carb adjustment issues

[Charlyl3]

So I’ve been fighting this carb now for a few days. It’s a OS 10-e rotary carb on a Rc10gt. I’ve adjusted the hsn and lsn to factory specs with the help of you guys. But when I attempt to adjust the carb gap the screw going clockwise or counterclockwise makes absolutely no change to the gap. So my question is...


am I supposed to have the controller on and brake on or is there something specific I need to do when doing this?

 

[olds97_lss]

You should have your radio on and at idle/home/resting position. With it like that, watch the carb and apply the brake. If you see the carb barrel move down the throat of the carb, your linkage isn't set right. When at idle/home/resting, the linkage should be putting a little pressure on the carb arm holding it against the idle screw. So when you apply brake, it doesn't stall out, or when at idle/home/resting, your not getting a false high idle.

If the linkage is set right and with the radio on, when you turn the screw, it should rotate the carb barrel a little.

 

[Charlyl3]

You should have your radio on and at idle/home/resting position. With it like that, watch the carb and apply the brake. If you see the carb barrel move down the throat of the carb, your linkage isn't set right. When at idle/home/resting, the linkage should be putting a little pressure on the carb arm holding it against the idle screw. So when you apply brake, it doesn't stall out, or when at idle/home/resting, your not getting a false high idle.

If the linkage is set right and with the radio on, when you turn the screw, it should rotate the carb barrel a little.

 

[Charlyl3]

Thank you for the info. That being said my linkage isn’t right, which I was afraid of. Appreciate it.

 

[monstertruckier15]

So I’ve been fighting this carb now for a few days. It’s a OS 10-e rotary carb on a Rc10gt. I’ve adjusted the hsn and lsn to factory specs with the help of you guys. But when I attempt to adjust the carb gap the screw going clockwise or counterclockwise makes absolutely no change to the gap. So my question is...


am I supposed to have the controller on and brake on or is there something specific I need to do when doing this?

Remove the throttle linkage and manual hold the carb closed . Adjust the idle screw to factory setting. Turn on radio center the servo and the trim. place servo horn on servo with throttle pivot over the inside servo mounting screw. Attach the linkage to throttle. adjust the stop collars so the carb linkage stays closed. Make sure the spring side has pressure on throttle pivot pin to keep carb closed. Adjust the EPa on radio for throttle travel both ways.
Read manual page 24 Step - Associated Electrics RC10GT Instruction Manual [Page 24] | ManualsLib

 

[Charlyl3]

Thank you. You guys have an abundance of information.

 

[Charlyl3]

I’m so irritated I can’t see straight. I am pretty new to this but I swear that whoever originally set up the linkage for the brake and throttle bent it/ and/or cut too much off the throttle linkage to where there is no extra to work with. I’m at a loss.
The barrel of the carb travels in/out as I hit throttle and I can watch the needles inside the carb come closer to one another. The throttle linkage and brake linkage also make contact with each other when I hit throttle, so I d

There is no way this is done correctly. At this point I think I’m going to pump my brakes and the shelf queen RC10GT I got to learn/compare/educate myself will be here in a few days and I can compare/contrast.


I’m at a loss.

 

[cbaker65]

Dont know if this will help ,gives you some idea ,you can buy the linkage rod & collars pretty cheap!

 

[Charlyl3]

Good to know. For some reason I had convinced myself it was going to be hard to replace.

 

[olds97_lss]

Got a good photo you can upload of your setup so we can see it?

 

[Charlyl3]

I tried to take photos of it in multiple positions so you could see where the 2 linkage points connect at full throttle and the limited play/adjustment available on the throttle. Hope this helps

 

[monstertruckier15]

I told you to rotate the throttle servo horn towards the carb so the throttle pivot pin in over the servo mount hole towards engine . Adjust the EPA. The other problem is you need to rotate the throttle lever on the carb so it not straight up when closed. It should be back towards the engine -30 degree angle. Line up the ball linkage with the corner of the throttle body when looking straight at it . Move the ball linkage to lower hole. Readjust the stop collars outside first push rod in; carb will close; tighten and readjust inside collar with spring leave a 1/4" gap between collar and ball linkage. Look at the manual.

 

[olds97_lss]

Wish I still had my xxx-nt, it had similar linkage. You can kink the brake rod closer to the brake arm then have the end where it connects to the servo connect from underneath the servo horn vs through the top like you have it. That will let it move below the throttle wire. Also, like @monstertruckier15 suggested, loosen the brass nut holding the throttle arm of the carb so that you can move the arm back about 30 degrees when the carb is fully closed, then tighten the nut back up and adjust the linkage to work with it. It will give you a better idle position in relation to where the two connect to the servo.

Here are a few other examples of linkages for an RC10GT:

 

[monstertruckier15]

Wish I still had my xxx-nt, it had similar linkage. You can kink the brake rod closer to the brake arm then have the end where it connects to the servo connect from underneath the servo horn vs through the top like you have it. That will let it move below the throttle wire. Also, like @monstertruckier15 suggested, loosen the brass nut holding the throttle arm of the carb so that you can move the arm back about 30 degrees when the carb is fully closed, then tighten the nut back up and adjust the linkage to work with it. It will give you a better idle position in relation to where the two connect to the servo.

Here are a few other examples of linkages for an RC10GT:

Every picture you posted has the throttle ball pivot on the carb lever in the WRONG hole. It's suppose to be in the bottom hole. This ensures the brake arm doesn't hit the throttle linkage. People can't read and follow instructions at all.

 

[olds97_lss]

Every picture you posted has the throttle ball pivot on the carb lever in the WRONG hole. It's suppose to be in the bottom hole. This ensures the brake arm doesn't hit the throttle linkage.

I only see one photo where that's clear enough to see, and really, you can obviously adjust the linkage so it works regardless what hole it is in.

 

[monstertruckier15]

I only see one photo where that's clear enough to see, and really, you can obviously adjust the linkage so it works regardless what hole it is in.

The instruction manual clearly shows the proper way. That's so it will clear the brake arm and the EPa will be set correctly.

 

[olds97_lss]

Got it. Also found another copy of the manual:
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10GT/Factory_Team/7091gt_manual.pdf

Page 19 talks about the ball end on the carb. They don't really state why, just to use the lower hole on the arm.

Pages 23-24 go over the linkage installation.

 

[alfredwong2003]

Get a new linkage rod and bend it the way that looks like original will be a good start.

 

[D3MON]

Every picture you posted has the throttle ball pivot on the carb lever in the WRONG hole. It's suppose to be in the bottom hole. This ensures the brake arm doesn't hit the throttle linkage. People can't read and follow instructions at all.

think its interesting that you are giving them a hard time over not reading/following directions to the "T" and that items have to fit exactly to factory spec to work, when you are using a bump start flywheel on a pull start engine... still works fine though right? its RC, there is going to be custom stuff and alternate ways of doing the same thing to get running again and to get the smile on their face, because that is why we are here, to have fun with RC.

I tried to take photos of it in multiple positions so you could see where the 2 linkage points connect at full throttle and the limited play/adjustment available on the throttle. Hope this helps

in those pictures, it does look mostly correct, that style gets really close, but as long as the carb can open fully without the linkage impacting or trying to force against each other. (do make sure to set end points up on your controller so its not trying to force the carb further than it should go)
it does look like your brake linkage is a little short though, and might have been cut down. stock there should be a spring between the rear most nut, and the brake lever. usually this gets switched out for fuel tubing though as you will get a more consistent brake action, that is a bit more aggressive.
here is a pic of mine: gets really close, but doesn't impact at full throttle.

then there was the other style where the brake linkage stayed down until behind the throttle linkage then went up and back for the brakes.

i did notice on yours you have a 3rd stop collar on the throttle, the one on the servo side of the spring, if that is getting in your way, doesn't "need" to be there, might be able to remove it to just squeak that collar further out of the way to completely clear.
very nice RC10gt though, love the gold head O.S. and that trans brace... i really need to get one like that.

 

[monstertruckier15]

When the throttle linkage is set up correct you can adjust the motor and use larger clutch bells with out changing the throttle or brake linkage. Slap it on any way you want and you will have to adjust the throttle and brake linkages. every time you change clutch bells. There should be plenty of space between the two linkages when the throttle is fully open with the stock clutch.

Using the outside hole on the carb lever with the old style brake arm raises the throttle linkage and it will hit the throttle linkage if the throttle linkage is not set up correct. The throttle servo horn needs to be set off center towards the engine so it will not hit the brake linkage when full throttle is applied. Using the outside hole on the carb lever also changes the EPA travel. Using the inside hole is normal EPA travel and give you more power.

The largest clutch bell is 24 teeth using the stock 66 tooth spur gear. The motor is adjustable and the throttle servo is fixed on Both blue chassis'. The black tub chassis can only use 14- 15 tooth clutch bell with 66 tooth spur gear max. with optional motor mount and you can use up to a 19 tooth clutch bell with a 66 tooth spur gear.