No power to the rear

[matevzdrn]

Hello!
I reacently bought an rc car(JLB cheetah) and it was all fine until the rear had no power. I saw that the pin was out and i pushed it back but it still didnt have any power. Later on i saw a broken bearind infront the diff i think and it was broken. Can someone please tell me if thats becouse the bearing or something else.
Thanks to everyone that responds!

 

[WickedFog]

Not sure which pin you are referring to. Pics of the things you are referring to would help.

But I'm going to tell you the best thing that will fix your problem - tear it apart and replace anything broken.

But post up some pics and we can see if we might be able to diagnose what caused your problems.

Welcome to RCTalk!

 

[matevzdrn]

Not sure which pin you are referring to. Pics of the things you are referring to would help.

But I'm going to tell you the best thing that will fix your problem - tear it apart and replace anything broken.

But post up some pics and we can see if we might be able to diagnose what caused your problems.

Welcome to RCTalk!

that bearing is broken but i dont know if something is broken inside it doesn't make any strange noise or nothing. Plus I am new to rc so i dont know many things

 

[WickedFog]

View attachment 198573
that bearing is broken but i dont know if something is broken inside it doesn't make any strange noise or nothing. Plus I am new to rc so i dont know many things

Ok, for that bearing to go out on the input shaft, I am going to guess it seized up before blowing the bearing balls out of it. There may be a pin on the inside of the diff case that locks the bevel gear onto that input shaft. That pin may have sheared when the bearing seized, so that bevel gear may no longer have anything driving it to turn the rear diff. The only way to find out is tear the diff housing apart.

Also make sure to check inside the actual differential for any damaged gears or pins. Tearing apart a differential can be a bit intimidating at first, but its really not that bad. If you search the internet for exploded views of your RC, you may find some that will show you where everything goes.

Another suggestion is to take pics of everything before you tear it down. That way you have reference images. You can also put the screws back into the threaded parts after disassembling so you know which screws go where.

Don't be scared to take it apart. You can put it back together. And if you need any help along the way, just ask. And remember, pics posted here are always helpful when asking questions. It helps us see what you are trying to describe, and we can then tell you the correct terminology for the parts you are asking about.

 

[bill_delong]

Bearings can potentially last a lifetime if properly maintained. It's difficult to say "when" is the best interval to clean your bearings, but I would start with checking after 2 hours of use. If the grease has turned black then it's time to flush the bearings with WD40 Dry Lube and re-pack with White Lithium grease. If you discover that the bearings are still clean after 2 hours, then inspect again after another 2 hours until you determine the sweet spot for your cleaning interval.

If any of the bearings get wet or have been in contact with sand, or abrasive chemicals like calcium often used to improve traction on dirt tracks, then you want to clean the bearings immediately afterward.

Bearings can fail at anytime they have been abused and not properly maintained

More info here:

• Maintenance Tips

 

[WickedFog]

Bearings can potentially last a lifetime if properly maintained. It's difficult to say "when" is the best interval to clean your bearings, but I would start with checking after 2 hours of use. If the grease has turned black then it's time to flush the bearings with WD40 Dry Lube and re-pack with White Lithium grease. If you discover that the bearings are still clean after 2 hours, then inspect again after another 2 hours until you determine the sweet spot for your cleaning interval.

If any of the bearings get wet or have been in contact with sand, or abrasive chemicals like calcium often used to improve traction on dirt tracks, then you want to clean the bearings immediately afterward.

Bearings can fail at anytime they have been abused and not properly maintained

More info here:

• Maintenance Tips

White lithium is NOT for bearings. There is a reason your grease is turning black. And there it is.

 

[bill_delong]

White lithium is NOT for bearings. There is a reason your grease is turning black. Amd there it is.

please read the link I provided, it's the best performing grease I have found to date

 

[Chubaka]

Bearings can potentially last a lifetime if properly maintained. It's difficult to say "when" is the best interval to clean your bearings, but I would start with checking after 2 hours of use. If the grease has turned black then it's time to flush the bearings with WD40 Dry Lube and re-pack with White Lithium grease. If you discover that the bearings are still clean after 2 hours, then inspect again after another 2 hours until you determine the sweet spot for your cleaning interval.

If any of the bearings get wet or have been in contact with sand, or abrasive chemicals like calcium often used to improve traction on dirt tracks, then you want to clean the bearings immediately afterward.

Bearings can fail at anytime they have been abused and not properly maintained

More info here:

• Maintenance Tips

I agree. My shelf queens bearings have lasted many years.

I stopped using WLG. It seems to dry up after time causing damage.

 

[Greywolf74]

Personally Id rather use Acer SIN lube or Bones Speed Cream but thats just me.

 

[WickedFog]

please read the link I provided, it's the best performing grease I have found to date

Anybody that is running a basher isn't going to tear it down every two hours to replace the grease because they used the wrong grease and caused bearing deterioration. Lithium grease is meant for hinges on barnyard gates and tractor pto component hinges. Not high speed bearings. If it is such an improvement to performance, maybe go to the race teams and tell them to start using it for IndyCAR and NASCAR, because wow. You discovered something they've been missing out on.

The only reason you might be seeing a slight performance increase is because lithium grease does not have the same viscosity as typical bearing grease, and it is not properly lubricating your bearings. And there is only one explanation why your grease is turning black. It's worn metal dust. If you put lithium grease in your wheel bearings of the car you drive to the track, you might make it there, but you likely wouldn't make it home. Because it is not meant for bearings. If you want a real performance boost, remove all the grease and shoot a shot of WD40 in your bearings. It's not meant for bearings either, but it has even lower viscosity than lithium grease does.

 

[bill_delong]

Anybody that is running a basher isn't going to tear it down every two hours to replace the grease because they used the wrong grease and caused bearing deterioration. Lithium grease is meant for hinges on barnyard gates and tractor pto component hinges. Not high speed bearings. If it is such an improvement to performance, maybe go to the race teams and tell them to start using it for IndyCAR and NASCAR, because wow. You discovered something they've been missing out on.

The only reason you might be seeing a slight performance increase is because lithium grease does not have the same viscosity as typical bearing grease, and it is not properly lubricating your bearings. And there is only one explanation why your grease is turning black. It's worn metal dust. If you put lithium grease in your wheel brarings of the car you drive to the track, you might make it there, but you likely wouldn't make it home. Because it is not meant for bearings. If you want a real performance boost, remove all the grease and shoot a shot of WD40 in your bearings. It's not meant for bearings either, but it has even lower viscosity than lithium grease does.

I have been using this method in my "Race Cars" for many years with great success, I very rarely have to replace any of my bearings, this is most efficient method I have found as well as the most effective for me

 

[WickedFog]

I have been using this method in my "Race Cars" for many years with great success, I very rarely have to replace any of my bearings, this is most efficient method I have found as well as the most effective for me

You do you. But it would be nice if you kept your racing tips to race related questions. As I said, no basher wants to tear their RC apart, remove their bearing seals, and replace the grease every 2 hours. And speaking of seals... lithium grease is petroleum based. And petroleum eats rubber seals

 

[bill_delong]

You do you. But it would be nice if you kept your racing tips to race related questions. As I said, no basher wants to tear their RC apart, remove their bearing seals, and replace the grease every 2 hours. And speaking of seals... lithium grease is petroleum based. And petroleum eats rubber seals

do yourself a favor and read the link I provided, it covers all of your concerns!

 

[WickedFog]

do yourself a favor and read the link I provided, it covers all of your concerns!

I don't need to. I don't have any desire to rebuild my bearings every 2 hours to clean the melted rubber and metal shavings out of them.

 

[Greywolf74]

do yourself a favor and read the link I provided, it covers all of your concerns!

I'm not trying to start an arguement but I want to debate this a bit. I read your link and its nothing but anecdotal evidence that WLG is better than "Green Grease" brand. Have you tried an actual oil lube like Acer SIN lube or Bones Speed Cream? I can't imagine how WLG could out perform something that has drastically lower viscosity. It goes against conventional wisdom. Plus, as often as you service your bearings its not like you need the extra "in between time" that grease does provide.

ChatGPT had this to say.

Lower viscosity oil lube is better for high speed bearings than higher viscosity grease type lube. true or flase?

True. Lower viscosity oil lubricants are generally better for high-speed bearings than higher viscosity grease-type lubricants. Here’s why:

### Advantages of Lower Viscosity Oil for High-Speed Bearings:
1. **Reduced Friction:** Lower viscosity oils create less internal friction within the bearing, which helps reduce heat generation and energy loss at high speeds.
2. **Better Heat Dissipation:** Oils can dissipate heat more effectively than grease, which is crucial for maintaining the bearing's performance and preventing overheating at high speeds.
3. **Improved Penetration:** Lower viscosity oils can penetrate more easily into the small clearances within high-speed bearings, ensuring thorough lubrication of all moving parts.
4. **Higher RPM Capability:** Bearings lubricated with lower viscosity oils can typically achieve higher rotational speeds compared to those lubricated with higher viscosity greases.

### When to Use Higher Viscosity Grease:
- **Heavy Loads:** For applications involving heavy loads and lower speeds, higher viscosity grease might be more suitable as it provides better support and cushioning.
- **Moisture and Contaminants:** Grease can offer better protection against moisture, dust, and other contaminants due to its thicker consistency and ability to stay in place.
- **Maintenance Intervals:** Grease generally requires less frequent reapplication than oil, making it more convenient for applications where regular maintenance is challenging.

### Conclusion:
While lower viscosity oil is typically better for high-speed bearings due to its ability to reduce friction, dissipate heat, and penetrate tight clearances, the choice of lubricant should be based on the specific operating conditions and requirements of the bearing application.

 

[Weezel]

Bearings can potentially last a lifetime if properly maintained. It's difficult to say "when" is the best interval to clean your bearings, but I would start with checking after 2 hours of use. If the grease has turned black then it's time to flush the bearings with WD40 Dry Lube and re-pack with White Lithium grease. If you discover that the bearings are still clean after 2 hours, then inspect again after another 2 hours until you determine the sweet spot for your cleaning interval.

If any of the bearings get wet or have been in contact with sand, or abrasive chemicals like calcium often used to improve traction on dirt tracks, then you want to clean the bearings immediately afterward.

Bearings can fail at anytime they have been abused and not properly maintained

More info here:

• Maintenance Tips

Why would I or someone else do this on a cheap basher? I can buy a new bearing and replace one when it goes bad for less than this "2 hour" maintenance.

If I was going through the hassle of doing a maintenance on my bearings I'd definitely be using a heavier grease to get the longest "in-between time" for needed maintenance. If I was racing I'd be using oil for least drag and doing maintenance after each race day.

I stopped using WLG. It seems to dry up after time causing damage.

Me too. I've switched to Super Lube.

 

[bill_delong]

I'm not trying to start an arguement but I want to debate this a bit. I read your link and its nothing but anecdotal evidence that WLG is better than "Green Grease" brand. Have you tried an actual oil lube like Acer SIN lube or Bones Speed Cream?

I once tested AVID Slide Bearing Grease:
https://www.avidrc.com/product/5/accessories/264/Slide-Bearing-Grease-AV-LUBE-SLIDE-accessories.html

$6 for 0.5oz wasn't cost effective compared to WLG for a fraction of the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-Products-LUC10533-Lithium/dp/B06XSYB7VL

If you can locate a source for bearing grease in the $1/oz price range then I will be happy to test it out.

I agree that bearing grease lasts maybe 50% longer but it's not practical when it costs $6 / $0.5 = 12x more expensive, yikes!

WLG takes the overall win between moderate wear to cost ratio.

For the record, I have seen WLG last up to 8 hours of run time on axle bearings before it starts to discolor if running on a low dust surface.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I use super lube on my cheapo ,`r that came with no grease in pretty much any of the bearings, gears, diffs...
I put super lube oil in the bearings and the heavy stuff on diff and spur.
I have ABUSED these cheapo gears with constant over power without so much as a single problem with a Chinesium gear, or plastic for that matter.
All that said, my car was definitely slower. If I were racing, I would consider lighter lube all around but
NO moisture issues in rain and puddles. I simply blow off 2ith the compressor after the runs.
I was always under the impression that white litium was petroleum based. I don't use it on plastic or rubber because I think this.
I looked up 'is lithium grease safe to use on plastic?"
This was my top result:
It's not advisable to use them on plastic parts. As lithium is based on petroleum, it tends to speed up the decay of rubber and plastic components. Lithium-based grease can withstand high temperatures and are perfect for cars, heavy machinery, and guns.Apr 19, 2021bisleyinternational.com

I know ppl who use vegtable oil on their chain saw blades, Ppl who use petroleum oil in their shocks, "wax" cars with transmission fluid and remove greasey finger prints from fenders with brake-kleen.
I'm not saying it can't be done. Clearly @bill_delong is a very experienced racer who WINS! It seems like for me, its not the right choice.
I suppose for the outboard bearings, they sit in aluminum so no issues there... maybe I could test there...
I need new bearings anyways.

 

[Greywolf74]

I once tested AVID Slide Bearing Grease:
https://www.avidrc.com/product/5/accessories/264/Slide-Bearing-Grease-AV-LUBE-SLIDE-accessories.html

$6 for 0.5oz wasn't cost effective compared to WLG for a fraction of the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-Products-LUC10533-Lithium/dp/B06XSYB7VL

If you can locate a source for bearing grease in the $1/oz price range then I will be happy to test it out.

I agree that bearing grease lasts maybe 50% longer but it's not practical when it costs $6 / $0.5 = 12x more expensive, yikes!

WLG takes the overall win between moderate wear to cost ratio.

For the record, I have seen WLG last up to 8 hours of run time on axle bearings before it starts to discolor if running on a low dust surface.

I was asking about oil type lubes, not greases. As a racer, I would think you'd being using a bearing oil of some sort, instead of grease.

 

[bill_delong]

I was asking about oil type lubes, not greases. As a racer, I would think you'd being using a bearing oil of some sort, instead of grease.

I no longer race 1/10 cars with ceramic bearings, but those bearings use a very thin bearing oil where I have found Trinity Perpetual Motion to be the fastest bearing oil among a half dozen oils I tested:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/trinit...htweight-motor-bearing-oil-tritep5010/p449353

I found it necessary to flush and re-apply high speed bearing oil every single race day to get the best results. You can go maybe 2-3 race days but performance would noticeably degrade.

For mod cars I prefer to use grease in the bearings to get optimal wear life and yes WLG wears faster than clear bearing grease, but being 12x less expensive hits the sweet spot for me between performance/price