Nitro engine break-in.. Too cold?

[Mickstix]

Howdy! I'm breakin in this .28 SH engine on my Monsoon, and I'm not sure it's getting hot enough? I've just been doing one stage per day (cause I get side tracked while it's cooling down, and I start messin with my other car) But today was the 4th stage, where it says to run in figure 8's up to "half" throttle and back.. Well I richened it a little more before starting, and today it only got up to about 50* outside, and after goin through most of the tank of fuel, I grabbed the "head" of the engine and it wasn't even hot enough to make me let go.. (I dont have a temp gun so not sure what temp it was, but I dont think it was 200*) So, should I do that stage over again, or just continue on and do the final "straight line, 1/2 to full throttle, and back" stage, and call it good?? Thanks for any info!! I'm not a noobie to RC, but I am to Nitro RC.. Thanks again..

Note: Today was the 4th stage ( 4th tank of fuel) The 1st stage/tank was "idle only", and stage 2 and 3 was "figure 8's from 0 to 1/4 throttle".. Today was "figure 8's from 0 to 1/2 throttle".. Between each stage I put the piston at BDC and let it cool completely..

 

[Metalhead Matt]

As long as the ambient temp isn't below 50 degrees, doing it by the book should be fine. Though you may want to grab a temp gun and get the temps up a little more before you start leaning it for performance.

 

[Scrogg]

Start leaning it to run just somewhat good. Running rich is just as bad as running too lean. Excess fuel does not compress and the sleeve does not expand enough. With the ambient temps where they are at right now, 180-200 is a good temp range for it. I promise you, if you keep running it rich, it will break or wear the rod very soon. SH engines are famous for premature con rod wear. I've seen dozens that the rod rubs the crankcase or backplate straight out of the box. Even their' top of the line Dynamite Platinums and LRP Z28's will do this.
Edit; before you run it again I'd open up the backplate and check it. That company is bad about not fully seating the main bearing in the crankcase. As soon as it heats up while running, it will seat and the crank slides back and forth because the flywheel and collet have it locked in position. All new engines require that you pull on the crankshaft before you install a collet and flywheel. Make sure you do not push the crank back towards the engine backplate when you install the collet/flywheel.

 

[Mickstix]

Thanks for the info! I'll surely lean it out a bit before I finish the breakin process, but I'm gonna hold off on opening up the engine.. (I've already run 4 tanks through it, so if it was rubbin the backplate it should have a nice groove plowed out by now) But seriously, this one came RTR with flywheel and clutch already installed. Hopefully they did it right at the factory! (Crosses fingers!) Thanks again!!