Newbie question for an old car.......

[JezHall]

Hi,

I always had Nitro cars but just got 2 old electric ones which i believe to be HBX Rivals...

I am having trouble finding instructions and calibrating the ESC which is a LM-406FB.

...Also, should the car brake when the lever is in the neutral position, or just glide to a stop?

Thanks in advance

 

[tntpoof]

Lm-406fb esc setup – raradervarebdiscmarbibeachnopa (wordpress.com)

 

[JezHall]

Hi, That link seems dead.

Thank you anyway

 

[tntpoof]

STEP 5
SPEED CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
Before beginning this step, the ESC should be connected
to the receiver and a charged 6 cell battery pack, the
motor disconnected, and the transmitter adjusted.
Adjustment of your Elektra speed control is required for
proper operation. When the status LED is red, the speed
control is in the neutral position (no throttle or brake).
When the status LED is solid green, the ESC is at full
throttle, and it will be flashing green at full brake position.
1. CONNECT THE BATTERY
Plug the speed control into a fully charged 6 cell nickelcadmium
or nickel-metal hydride Sub-C battery pack.
2. TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER
3. TURN ON THE SPEED CONTROL
Slide the ON/OFF switch to the ON position.
4. PRESS AND HOLD SPEED CONTROL’S SET BUTTON
With transmitter throttle at neutral, press and hold the
ESC SET button until the status LED turns solid red.
5. RELEASE ESC SET BUTTON WHEN LED IS RED
6. PULL TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-ON POSITION
Hold it there until the status LED turns solid green.
NOTE: The motor will not run during programming even if it
is connected to the speed control.
7. PUSH TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL-BRAKE
Hold it there until the status LED blinks green.
8. RETURN TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO NEUTRAL
Status LED will turn solid red, indicating that throttle is
at neutral and proper programming has been completed.
9. CHECK OPERATION OF THE SPEED CONTROL
Connect the motor and check for proper operation.
With no throttle or brake applied the status LED should
be solid red and the motor should not be running. At
full throttle the status LED should be solid green and
the motor running full speed. At full brakes the status
LED should be blinking green and the motor not running.
10.SET THE COAST BRAKE AT TRANSMITTER (optional)
Adjust the THROTTLE CHANNEL TRIM on the transmitter
to get more or less coast brake. This is accomplished
by slightly shifting the neutral position. After adjustment
be sure that the status LED is still green at full throttle.
Speed control is programmed & ready to run!
If your transmitter settings are changed at any time after
the speed control has been set-up, it will be necessary to
complete the programming sequence once again.
If you experience any problems during programming,
turn off the speed control and then repeat the entire
programming process again.
How to Set Up the ESC - YouTube
How to Set Up the ESC - YouTube

 

[biggman100]

Hi,

I always had Nitro cars but just got 2 old electric ones which i believe to be HBX Rivals...

I am having trouble finding instructions and calibrating the ESC which is a LM-406FB.

...Also, should the car brake when the lever is in the neutral position, or just glide to a stop?

Thanks in advance

Thats not an HBX. The one in the pics you posted is a Tamiya TL-01.

 

[JezHall]

Thats not an HBX. The one in the pics you posted is a Tamiya TL-01.

Thank you for that! I just googled it. Got a lot more info about the car now.

Is it possible to upgrade the motor in these?

Thanks again for the Identification.

 

[biggman100]

Thank you for that! I just googled it. Got a lot more info about the car now.

Is it possible to upgrade the motor in these?

Thanks again for the Identification.

You can, but, you dont want to put too much power in them, since the drivetrain can't handle it, and there arent any real upgrades for it. You are also limited by the battery, since you can't put a typical Lipo in it without modifying the chassis. You can get the Tamiya speed gear set for it, but most places have limited stock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2735860485...NEko-4ohs3olWKE5BdecjX0dFRR99lS8aAn-xEALw_wcB About the only upgrade you can do to it is to replace all the plastic bushings with rubber shielded bearings. Another limit is the way the motor mount is set up. You only have options for a 19T, 21T and 23T pinion gear. There is a couple videos on YouTube from a guy who used the speed gear set, the 23T pinion, and got around 40MPH out of it though, so it can be made to be pretty quick. Be careful buying pinions for it. The correct ones are these 3: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165165778132 (23T), https://www.ebay.com/itm/393685004830 (19T), and https://www.ebay.com/itm/165181646222?epid=1000204309&hash=item267597e58e:g:2kYAAOSw7WVhkCe4 (21T)

 

[JezHall]

You can, but, you dont want to put too much power in them, since the drivetrain can't handle it, and there arent any real upgrades for it. You are also limited by the battery, since you can't put a typical Lipo in it without modifying the chassis. You can get the Tamiya speed gear set for it, but most places have limited stock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273586048540?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1-wmkGhSxTIeSMYXbMGscsw85&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=273586048540&targetid=1262375642056&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9005776&poi=&campaignid=15275224983&mkgroupid=131097072938&rlsatarget=pla-1262375642056&abcId=9300697&merchantid=6313954&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZAqh6dyys3a8CxleR2rGKzNEko-4ohs3olWKE5BdecjX0dFRR99lS8aAn-xEALw_wcB About the only upgrade you can do to it is to replace all the plastic bushings with rubber shielded bearings. Another limit is the way the motor mount is set up. You only have options for a 19T, 21T and 23T pinion gear. There is a couple videos on YouTube from a guy who used the speed gear set, the 23T pinion, and got around 40MPH out of it though, so it can be made to be pretty quick. Be careful buying pinions for it. The correct ones are these 3: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165165778132 (23T), https://www.ebay.com/itm/393685004830 (19T), and https://www.ebay.com/itm/165181646222?epid=1000204309&hash=item267597e58e:g:2kYAAOSw7WVhkCe4 (21T)

Thats great.

Thanks for that advice.......Is it not as simple as attaching the old pinion gear to a new motor?

Thanks

Jez

 

[tntpoof]

no you need to worry about excess heat from incorrect gearing. then there's the esc turn limit

 

[biggman100]

Thats great.

Thanks for that advice.......Is it not as simple as attaching the old pinion gear to a new motor?

Thanks

Jez

A lot of factors come into play when swapping a motor. Having the wrong gearing could cause it to be slower or faster than the original motor, which could then cause the new motor to overheat. If you are sticking with a brushed motor, there is the turn (T) rating to factor in. A lower turn motor will typically produce more speed, but, since you are limited to only the 3 pinions, too low paired with the wrong pinion could not only cause overheating, but, because of the design of the TL-01, could cause the internal gears in the car to strip easier. Then there is the issue of the ESC. With brushed ESC's, they have a max and minimum motor turn limit, but, just because, for example, an ESC gives a 12T limit, that 12T motor could be too much for the car. Going brushless can make the problem much worse. On this one, your best bet would be to go on TamiyaClub.com's forums, and search through there and see what others are doing with their TL-01's, and use that as a guide. On mine, i kept it brushed, and used a 15T motor with a 21T pinion. Its not super fast, but, it also doesn't overheat on that set up, and its on the same internal gears it has had for several years now. One thing to keep an eye on though is making sure the internal gears are greased. When i run mine consistently, i typically tear it down once a month check the gears, and, if need be, add a bit more grease to them.

 

[JezHall]

A lot of factors come into play when swapping a motor. Having the wrong gearing could cause it to be slower or faster than the original motor, which could then cause the new motor to overheat. If you are sticking with a brushed motor, there is the turn (T) rating to factor in. A lower turn motor will typically produce more speed, but, since you are limited to only the 3 pinions, too low paired with the wrong pinion could not only cause overheating, but, because of the design of the TL-01, could cause the internal gears in the car to strip easier. Then there is the issue of the ESC. With brushed ESC's, they have a max and minimum motor turn limit, but, just because, for example, an ESC gives a 12T limit, that 12T motor could be too much for the car. Going brushless can make the problem much worse. On this one, your best bet would be to go on TamiyaClub.com's forums, and search through there and see what others are doing with their TL-01's, and use that as a guide. On mine, i kept it brushed, and used a 15T motor with a 21T pinion. Its not super fast, but, it also doesn't overheat on that set up, and its on the same internal gears it has had for several years now. One thing to keep an eye on though is making sure the internal gears are greased. When i run mine consistently, i typically tear it down once a month check the gears, and, if need be, add a bit more grease to them.

Thats great. Thank you.