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Good point! thanksYou're better off staying with the nylon rod ends than aluminum to give you a built in point of failure to prevent more damage to an expensive part.
am curious, are you breaking many of them? so far on my LSTs havent broken one, but yours being brushless not nitro like mine kind of a whole different animal.Good point! thanks
No, not at all. Just that one after running it hard straight into a swing set. Installed a bumper after replacing and never happened again. Just shredded one of my diffs though so a rebuild of those is on the horizon. ?am curious, are you breaking many of them? so far on my LSTs havent broken one, but yours being brushless not nitro like mine kind of a whole different animal.
Thanks!
oh wow, blown diff, stuff most have been serious! in the nitro world anyway, they are probably the most bulletproof diffs made if shimmed and serviced periodically.No, not at all. Just that one after running it hard straight into a swing set. Installed a bumper after replacing and never happened again. Just shredded one of my diffs though so a rebuild of those is on the horizon. ?
yea well this model is kind of known for the diffs shredding due to lack of shimming and diff oil from factory along with the power of 6s batteries. I was waiting for it to happen cuz I knew it was common. Not sure the extent of damage yet cuz I have not taken it apart as of yet. Just ordered all of the rebuild parts and SHIMS. I will rebuild front and back diffs while I have it apart.oh wow, blown diff, stuff most have been serious! in the nitro world anyway, they are probably the most bulletproof diffs made if shimmed and serviced periodically.
what part blew up? spider gears/cup? or ring and pinion gears?
cool, thanks ??Probably best to stick with stock then. I ran an aftershock many years ago and while I didn't bash it nearly as hard as I would have now (brushless really opened my eyes to what you can do), I did run it a lot and rarely had issues with the shocks.
My biggest issues with it were the two speed (not applicable to electric) and snapping the chassis rails from hard flat landings. That got old pretty fast as it's a PITA to replace the rails every other weekend. I sorted out a fix for that too by making a plate to tie the front/center together.
I don't know what the current xle springs are, but the RC Raven dual rates were a nice upgrade over stock or the yellow springs. Kind of a happy medium between the softer black springs and stiff yellow ones that Losi offered at the time. They have a few colors, I just went with black:
http://rcraven.com/search.php?Search=&search_query=lst+springs