New motor/esc Losi Mini 8ight

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DerekPike

RCTalk Basher
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Location
Columbus Indiana
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
So I've been researching a new motor and esc for my Losi Mini 8ight. I just got this last week and it has a Velinion 4000 kv and the original esc in it. I will probably stick with 2s as I'm worried 3s will break things. The first place I looked was Castle.

http://www.castlecreations.com/en/mamba-micro-x

Bear in mind I'm pretty new to RC and even newer to electric. So I tried doing some of my own research and seemed like every website I looked at conflicted with another. One website (forum) said the 0808 worked and even showed pictures.

Another site recommended this motor out of Sweden, but said it required some dremeling.

http://www.smartteknik.se/uk/brushless-motors/motor-lbps2838-45005600kv-4-pole-380-size.html

Some recommended a Castle esc and some said to use an EZrun. So I thought I would ask someone with more experience and knowledge than myself.

Would I be better off (assuming Castle is recommended) to go with the 4100 or the 5300?

Lastly, what gearing should I run? If I go with the 4100 I wouldn't think it would change, but if I go with the 5300? And I'm not sure what the gearing is currently. I'm at work and sadly the RC isn't here with me. Thanks in advance for the responses.
 
If you liked the performance of the original set up go with the 4100 kV motor. That would be my choice. I have had far too many overpowered trucks that were uncontrollable and they're fun for about the first 10 minutes. I used earlier versions of this ESC and the 5700 kV motor in my RC-18s and would recommend the ESC without hesitation. I would also recommend the Field Programming card so you can adjust settings while out running. It can also plug into the computer and allow you to use it as a Castle Link as well.
 
+1 ⬆ I totally agree with @hamz9561 about the overpowered rigs. They are fun for a little while... until you start breaking all sorts of parts! If you are racing, the excessive power will most certainly work against you! Racing is about control and how fast you can get around the track without wrecking! If you're running on road a lot, you'll be blowing they tires left and right too!
The 'field card' is a must have for whatever you choose for an esc. Having access to your settings when you're out bashing and most importantly while racing is imperative! In this case, it functions as a link to your computer which is a great bonus! Lastly, do a little bit of shopping around and I'll bet you find the Castle gear on sale or with some sort of bonus with your purchase. This is DEFINITELY the right time to be buying!
Good luck with it, whatever you choose! Please post your choice and why you chose it. Pics of your ride and if you have the time, a video of it running would be great! :thumbs-up:
 
Thanks for the response @hamz9561 and @Certified Mike I didn't even know they made field programming card. I already have a Castle Link to hook up to my computer. Maybe that's the same thing, but I'm doubting it? To be honest, I'm not sure how it performs as of right now. I got it last week and with end of semester things in college I haven't had much time. I need to come up with a ~$100 Christmas present and this came to mind. I might just get the ESC to replace the factory one (heard there might be some issues with that one) and just keep the velineon in there until it has issues. There shouldn't be a problem with that right?

I know the 4000kv in my flux is plenty fast just on 2s. As one of you mentioned, I'm not trying to break things every time I run so I'll probably go with the 4100. I wasn't sure how much "faster" the 5300 was. I knew I didn't want the 8200.

I don't race at all, I just bash. I have a grocery store next door that is closed with an open parking lot not being used.
 
The FPC is a Castle Link that you can throw in a pit box so you can tweak the settings on the fly without a laptop with you. The 4100 kV should be fine. Good luck and enjoy.
 
Thanks guys. I'll just thrown in the ESC for the time being and go from there, and I'll look at grabbing one of those FPC. How often will I need to make changes to the ESC? I'll try to get some pics @Certified Mike I have one of it being unboxed. Videos are harder to do as I can't drive and video at the same time. I'll try to get a friend to assist when I get a chance.

Heres the pics I have.
 

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Yeah!!! That's a very cool looking rig! Looks clean too! Seems you've done well with your purchase! Having the flexibility to change up your settings is NICE when you're going between terrains and you don't feel like getting to your computer. This way, you can change up settings between a 'torque' setting for off road and jumping to when you're in that parking lot and you want some serious top end speed and don't mind giving up a little low end for the high end snap!
If you have a motor in there now that is performing ok, I recommend that you run it for a while. At least run it until you get to know your buggy and have a better idea of what it is that you really want out of the next motor. Nothing wrong with waiting for now! As far as a speed control purchase, if you are going to buy now, I would recommend getting something that is very capable of handling more motor and maybe even more battery. Something you can grow into in other words. Again, there is nothing wrong with waiting for now. A good general rule of thumb is that rather than buying a bunch of hop ups, run what you have. As you find a gap in performance here and there, THAT is what you'll want to consider replacing. That applies to things that you'll break. If you are going to stock up on 'breakables' like a-arms for instance, buy a set of RPM arms. They are a great hop up! Durable as hell and a lifetime guarantee! Those are the types of hop ups that I recommend and for those reasons.
I'll Def look forward to seeing vids! Good luck with whatever it is you choose to pick up and DEF let us know how you do, if you're satisfied with the purchases etc!!!:thumbs-up:
 
Yeah!!! That's a very cool looking rig! Looks clean too! Seems you've done well with your purchase! Having the flexibility to change up your settings is NICE when you're going between terrains and you don't feel like getting to your computer. This way, you can change up settings between a 'torque' setting for off road and jumping to when you're in that parking lot and you want some serious top end speed and don't mind giving up a little low end for the high end snap!
If you have a motor in there now that is performing ok, I recommend that you run it for a while. At least run it until you get to know your buggy and have a better idea of what it is that you really want out of the next motor. Nothing wrong with waiting for now! As far as a speed control purchase, if you are going to buy now, I would recommend getting something that is very capable of handling more motor and maybe even more battery. Something you can grow into in other words. Again, there is nothing wrong with waiting for now. A good general rule of thumb is that rather than buying a bunch of hop ups, run what you have. As you find a gap in performance here and there, THAT is what you'll want to consider replacing. That applies to things that you'll break. If you are going to stock up on 'breakables' like a-arms for instance, buy a set of RPM arms. They are a great hop up! Durable as hell and a lifetime guarantee! Those are the types of hop ups that I recommend and for those reasons.
I'll Def look forward to seeing vids! Good luck with whatever it is you choose to pick up and DEF let us know how you do, if you're satisfied with the purchases etc!!!:thumbs-up:

I won't really run on multiple terrains (with this car at least). It's more of and on road car than it is offroad. I'll probably just drive it in that empty parking lot. But it is definitely something to consider.

I will probably keep the motor I have in there for now. I don't see where going from the Velineon (4000 kv) to the Castle (4100 kv) will make much difference other than the motor and ESC brands match. That ESC will handle any of the Castle motors I was looking at and will do both 2s and 3s. I don't think I'll run 3s though as I'm afraid to break everything (drive train wise). I like that you're thinking ahead, but I think this ESC will do everything I want/need.

Yeah, I don't buy too many hopups until something breaks and then I replace it with something better. That's not always the case, but a general rule of thumb that I follow. Yeah, I've been eying some RPM and T Bone items because of both points you mentioned, durability and warranty.

I'll try to keep you guys posted. I'm hoping to have more time since I'll be on break at school, but we'll see how it goes.
 
The 'thinking ahead is where you should always try to be IMO. You have to pay to 'go up' so to speak but paying a little now covers a LOT later. I totally agree with not wanting to hit the 3s... Breakage and whatnot.... BUT... That top end speed IS fun for those 10mins too...LOL! Def keep in mind what your realistic goals are. If you're not off road racing, maybe buying those '20mm shocks with the piggybacks' or whatever the case.... Not necessary and an expensive hop up you'll never use. So spend that $200 elsewhere. ;) Being in school, I'm sure money is tight anyways but you get my point. You're rig is MORE than capable of parking lot fun for a LONG time as is!
 
You are correct. I try to balance thinking ahead with not replacing things until they break. Right now I just want to run it a bit since it's getting too cold for the nitro. I bought the Flux XS so I could always have one up and running, and well this Losi was too cheap for what it was to pass up. I'm not going to be doing anything fancy with it, just running in in my abundance of free time (sarcasm lol).

If I do break something or buy hop ups, the thing I like/love about this thing is parts are cheap.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-rear-cv-driveshaft-set-los312001/p301327
 
So I shot a really bad video today @Certified Mike. I has to hold the phone and drive so... plus couldn't go full speed as the controller has a really bad range. The lipo that came with it has never balanced and was pretty warm after I ran it today. Junk it? PM me your email address and I'll send that video as I can't attach it here.
 
There are testers that are available to see if your battery is junk. Just to make clear, first and foremost, NEVER charge a battery without placing it in a propper Lipo bag! They ARE dangerous if not used properly. Of it is getting VERY hot (seems a good rule of thumb it that if you can't hold it in your hands, it's junk. I would imagine others here would have more technical info but that has been accurate enough for me thru the years of nimh bats)
You can cycle the battery thru your charger if it has the options to dicharge and balance charge thru a couple cycles. See how that is working out for you. Whatever you do, be realistic about it! A fire isn't worth the $60 to replace a battery pack! ALWAYS, safety first!!!

I pm'd my address. Thank you!
 
There are testers that are available to see if your battery is junk. Just to make clear, first and foremost, NEVER charge a battery without placing it in a propper Lipo bag! They ARE dangerous if not used properly. Of it is getting VERY hot (seems a good rule of thumb it that if you can't hold it in your hands, it's junk. I would imagine others here would have more technical info but that has been accurate enough for me thru the years of nimh bats)
You can cycle the battery thru your charger if it has the options to dicharge and balance charge thru a couple cycles. See how that is working out for you. Whatever you do, be realistic about it! A fire isn't worth the $60 to replace a battery pack! ALWAYS, safety first!!!

I pm'd my address. Thank you!

It is charged in a lipo bag and I watch it. it's never warm when charging. it was only warm after I ran it. I was still able to handle it with no problems .

I've seen where you give lipos saltwater baths to discharge them for proper disposal. How much salt should you use?

Got the PM and sent an email. unfortunately it's too large to attach. Any ideas other than YouTube ?
 
Its fine! I appreciate the effort! Maybe some time when you can get someone to help you out everything will work out better. Knowing we have got you pointed in the right direction Is all the satisfaction I ask. :thumbs-up:
 
I am not familiar with any salt water baths. I would see if there are any posts about that in the forum or maybe ask the question as a new thread in the forum. Because I am very leary of Lipo to begin with, personally I would only take the advise of someone who has direct prior experience with the process. Do make sure it's clear that you are not looking to dispose of the batteries. You may also find other suggestions on how to properly discharge. I will offer you that you would want to discharge the battery with something that stays consistent with the mah ratings so that you don't exceed the capabilities of YOUR particular pack. Not all methods will work with all batteries. Chemistry is not my strong suit but it is my thought that the salt bath may have a chemical reaction that would disable the battery completely (making it safe for disposal). That is only a guess but I believe it makes sense.
As far as the videos. Even if you can never post them or send them, for your own info, record and save them so you can go back and see how your changes in gearing, different motors, bats, esc, whatever else you may change out, etc... have changed your performance. Prob wise to keep a hand written record as well. This is more common for ppl who race but I think it's a good idea for anyone who runs RC. ;)
 
I am not familiar with any salt water baths. I would see if there are any posts about that in the forum or maybe ask the question as a new thread in the forum. Because I am very leary of Lipo to begin with, personally I would only take the advise of someone who has direct prior experience with the process. Do make sure it's clear that you are not looking to dispose of the batteries. You may also find other suggestions on how to properly discharge. I will offer you that you would want to discharge the battery with something that stays consistent with the mah ratings so that you don't exceed the capabilities of YOUR particular pack. Not all methods will work with all batteries. Chemistry is not my strong suit but it is my thought that the salt bath may have a chemical reaction that would disable the battery completely (making it safe for disposal). That is only a guess but I believe it makes sense.
As far as the videos. Even if you can never post them or send them, for your own info, record and save them so you can go back and see how your changes in gearing, different motors, bats, esc, whatever else you may change out, etc... have changed your performance. Prob wise to keep a hand written record as well. This is more common for ppl who race but I think it's a good idea for anyone who runs RC. ;)

Yeah, the salt water is supposed to make the batteries stable enough so you can take them to be properly disposed. As you said, I'm not familiar with the science of things. I spoke to a guy who sells lipo batteries and he said most LHS will dispose of them for you, so I'm going to call mine today to see if they do that.

Just called Castle and they said the Micro X should be fine, but (he didn't come out and say this) I should stay with the velineon. He said the shaft was a different diameter on the micro X motors.
 
Well that's good news! Seems you'll be able to keep costs down and still have great performance! Comforting to know there are still ppl out there who can be honest and not try to stuff a sale down your throat by telling you things that just aren't true (apparently)! If Castle says (in not so many words) you're good to go, I'd take that as VERY good advice.
As far as the battery goes... Have you checked the final voltage you're getting from your battery? Also, what kind of charger are you using?
 
Yeah, I've heard good things about Castle support. He said that I could put the 1/10th sidewinder in there as well. I said this is a 1/14th scale. He said again the Micro would do what I needed.

The battery was shipped to me fully charged. I wasn't happy about that, but not much I could do about it. I put it in storage and it didn't balance, and then I fully charged it and it didn't balance. I checked it last night after I'd run it and it had cooled down and it was just over .10 out of balance, so not too bad. I can't remember the final voltage of the charge and I'm using a Venom 4 port charger to charge it.
 
Yeah, the salt water is supposed to make the batteries stable enough so you can take them to be properly disposed. As you said, I'm not familiar with the science of things. I spoke to a guy who sells lipo batteries and he said most LHS will dispose of them for you, so I'm going to call mine today to see if they do that.

Just called Castle and they said the Micro X should be fine, but (he didn't come out and say this) I should stay with the velineon. He said the shaft was a different diameter on the micro X motors.
All that means is that you'll need to buy a new pinion for the motor, which is no big deal.
 
All that means is that you'll need to buy a new pinion for the motor, which is no big deal.
I agree and understand, but it's not broke so I"m not going to fix it. I have the 4000 kv (Velineon) and the Castle is a 4100 kv. Besides, the only reason I'm replacing anything is I have $100 as a Christmas gift to spend and figured I'd replace the stock ESC. I just poorly worded the paraphrasing of Castle.
 

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