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Need Mammoth Help

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Does the center diff directly replace the tranny. I mean can I just take out the 2 speed tranny and put the cente diff directly in there or do I need extra parts, help please i'm still a newbie

Yes, the 2 speed assembly goes out and the center diff drops right in it's place. You'll also need to pick up a 1/8 scale clutchbell to replace the stock 2 speed clutchbell. Any hardened steel buggy or Savage clutchbell will be fine. Start with 14T and see how you like it. If your engine doesn't have enough muscle to pull the 14T, drop down a tooth on the clutchbell. If it's not enough top speed for you and the engine has plenty of power, try going up a tooth or two on the clutchbell.
 
Yes, the 2 speed assembly goes out and the center diff drops right in it's place. You'll also need to pick up a 1/8 scale clutchbell to replace the stock 2 speed clutchbell. Any hardened steel buggy or Savage clutchbell will be fine. Start with 14T and see how you like it. If your engine doesn't have enough muscle to pull the 14T, drop down a tooth on the clutchbell. If it's not enough top speed for you and the engine has plenty of power, try going up a tooth or two on the clutchbell.

Any link's for the 1/8 clutch bell, I have no idea what that is, Where exacty does this clutch bell fit into the diff
 
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OOOhhhh ok I got it, thank's a lot sweetdiesal

Now all I need to do is find out where to get these longer screws for the rear diff
 
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Alright I just went to the local hobby shop and got everything I need:thumbsup: Does the center diff come with oil in it or do I have to put in oil. Also I noticed 4 shims that came with the center diff, where do these go. I have some 60wt 100% silicone shock oil, will that work for the diff's, thank's for puttin up with me:no_commen
 
I wouldn't use anything less than 30K diff oil in the diff. I run 50K and my front wheels unload running an axial 28 and a 13T bell. I need to up the bell to about a 15T and recheck to see if it still has a tendency to unload the center diff in the front.

Trying to use shock oil will have about as much effect as water when it comes to a diff. Diff oils are rated in thousands. Shock oils are typically less than 100.

I don't know what comes in the diff from the factory. If I had to guess, I'd say grease. The shims probably go on the outputs of the shafts on the diff so you can take out any slop so the diff doesn't float forward and back in the bearings.

Make sure when you install the diff that you put the gear towards the rear of the truck or it will be too far away from the engine. It's not the easiest thing to have to take back apart...

Here's a pic of mine so you can see which way the diff goes:
2007-0102-MammothBodyOffTop.jpg


I have good luck running OFNA hardened bells. They last quite a while running against a steel spur gear.

What are the longer screws your talking about?
 
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I am tightining down some loose screws but I was wondering I could put a drop of super glue on the threads of the screws to keep them in place. I ordered some lock tight but I don't know how long it will take to get here. Can I use the glue that I use for mu tires?? Thannk's
 
If your screwing into plastic, glue is fine. It's actually recommended that you don't use locktight on plastic threads. You should only use locktight on metal threads (aluminum, steel, titanium...)
 
Cool thank's a lot. I got it all shimed:celb2: But now it's time to go to supercross in Anahiem:trashed: so I guess i'll tackle the mid dif tommorow:celebrate:

I wouldn't use anything less than 30K diff oil in the diff. I run 50K and my front wheels unload running an axial 28 and a 13T bell. I need to up the bell to about a 15T and recheck to see if it still has a tendency to unload the center diff in the front.

Trying to use shock oil will have about as much effect as water when it comes to a diff. Diff oils are rated in thousands. Shock oils are typically less than 100.

I don't know what comes in the diff from the factory. If I had to guess, I'd say grease. The shims probably go on the outputs of the shafts on the diff so you can take out any slop so the diff doesn't float forward and back in the bearings.

Make sure when you install the diff that you put the gear towards the rear of the truck or it will be too far away from the engine. It's not the easiest thing to have to take back apart...

Here's a pic of mine so you can see which way the diff goes:
2007-0102-MammothBodyOffTop.jpg


I have good luck running OFNA hardened bells. They last quite a while running against a steel spur gear.

What are the longer screws your talking about?


But the new center diff comes with some type of oil/grease in it
 
Yeah, that's what I thought. It probably has the red XTM grease in it. I'd definitely swap that out with 50K oil before you run it. If you don't, it will be like driving a front wheel drive truck as all the weight transfer will take the weight off the front tires and they will just spin all the time.

Mine does that now if I get on it hard in the grass with the Axial 28 in it. I have a feeling that if I up my CB a couple teeth, it won't be as likely to do that.
 
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