Build Thread My Rustler 2wd build 2.0

[DavidB1126]

Well the rusty quickly died on me and after cogged very badly. Was only out for 10 minutes and came back in and the battery was at 3.8v a cell. So got out the programmer and lowered the lvc to auto low instead of the factory setting if auto medium. Hopefully that helps. Never experienced this before with the max10 hobbywing.

Also turned up the punch to level 5 from 4 so I'll see if that can help it wheelie a bit better.

 

[DavidB1126]

Well the rusty quickly died on me and after cogged very badly. Was only out for 10 minutes and came back in and the battery was at 3.8v a cell. So got out the programmer and lowered the lvc to auto low instead of the factory setting if auto medium. Hopefully that helps. Never experienced this before with the max10 hobbywing.

Also turned up the punch to level 5 from 4 so I'll see if that can help it wheelie a bit better.

Well coming back to this, wasn't the LVC or anything with the ESC. Took the motor apart and the 2 washers in the back of the rotor were bent so I bent them back as best as I could and put it back together and seems not to cog out anymore. So thats fixed. But I did test voltage drop which is still apparent.

 

[ahr43]

Generally, spacing the rotor away from the Hall sensors at the back of the motor results in more cogging. In flattening the spacers the rotor was moved closer to the Hall's resulting in less cogging.

Again, generally, any spacers on a sensored motor are placed at the front of the rotor, e.g., the pinion end of the rotor. This maintains the manufacturers desired rotor/Hall clearance. Under motor acceleration, rotor tends to slam 'forward' into the pinion end cap of the motor can anyway (caveat, assuming standard CCW motor rotation). That's where the end loading is taken.

Recommend an Email to HW to verify this and to see if spacers are needed/recommended backside of rotor.

Good you fixed it. -AC

 

[DavidB1126]

Finally running after sitting for a month. New 10BL120 G2 3652 4000KV combo. Same motor essentially as the old EzRun SL G2 series of motors but just with the quickrun name. ESC is bigger than the Max10 G1 previously. 120A, and I got a new electronic timing feature now.
Got it all installed, wiring configured, tested it on the bench and tweaked the settings a little, which this does work with the new G3 Pro hobbywing card. Ill test it out once this rain is out of here. Also, new motor so these magnets are strong.

Something to note with these quickrun 3660/3652 series of motors, the motor wires are longer than the older EzRun SL G2 3660/3652 motors. Thank you hobbywing!

 

[DavidB1126]

Tested the new 10BL120 G2 and its a great combo! No overheating issues. The first time I went out I did experience a cut out (not a radio issue), probably voltage drop, I disabled LVC and taped in my cell checker to the car just to be safe and no issues since!

Bashed it this weekend with the ramp, and now its higher since I tested it with a box under, and a spare tire under. Huge air!
Nothing broke besides a shock screw backing out (normal) and a lost body clip (normal)

Rear tires are getting worn down. Tried to swap the fronts to the rear but the offsets make it look super weird. Since the fronts would make the rear +2mm wider, and the rears on the front would make the front -2mm less wide, and rub the body, so ill just get a new pair of REAR Talon EXTs later around Christmas time, and also a new body. I got a new RPM bulkhead to install in this, once I get a rounded and deformed screw for the front bumper off/out. Also, RPM bumper saved the day yesterday lol.

https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/it-was-sent-got-huge-air.143795/

 

[DavidB1126]

New wheels (and semi new tires) mounted up for the winter/carpet season of racing. Will glue em up later this week.
These tires only have 1 race day on them when I raced (well tried too lol) with the 2wd buggies at the old track last year. Took those wheels off and put them on my current dirt slicks so had to get new wheels.
(Jconcepts Fuzz Bites for the rear, Jconcepts Swaggers for the front)

Lately with the car, just bashing it in the backyard and with the ramp. Still running. Never even touched a tool to it for the past couple months.
For racing, now since I have the stocks (well replacement stock) shocks on it with thinner oil, should handle better on track. I will take off the wheelie bar when I am at the track for carpet protection reasons.

 

[DavidB1126]

 

[DavidB1126]

 

[DavidB1126]

New replacement tires to get rid of them bald ones

 

[DavidB1126]

There we go!
Using OG fronts because they don't get driven so why get new ones?

 

[DavidB1126]

Going through and updating my threads. Forgot to include this when I last posted but I did race this in a truck class at the clay track. Just me and another guy with a T6.4. Was about 2 seconds behind per lap but pretty decent for a rear motor competing against a modern truck. Otherwise truck hasn't changed that much.

 

[DavidB1126]

Ok, huge updates! Well not to the truck right now but it is in the planning.

Hear me out

I have a spare 13.5 motor from my wheeler ok. Last gen (G4) HW, still a pretty hot motor if you ask me. 3950kv no load, while the G4R in my wheeler (main racer) is 4100kv no load, (per manual) so it ain't that far off... I can always experiment with timing and gearing.

Thinking about picking up stadium truck for my race program this winter/carpet season. Already got the proper tires so I'm ready to go.

So you guys know the motor, time for the esc. Esc isn't the greatest but it for sure is a beast in reliability, for now and for its time. Gonna run a V2.1 xerun HW esc (120A). Gonna redo all the wiring for it, got some Tekin 12 gauge wire packs in my cart so I can do this job. Gonna leave the wires a bit lengthy so I can swap this system into my slash if I wanted to. And put a XT60 plug on it.

Also planning on getting a new body, stock rustler body x racing? Nope, not showing up in that hideous shell got a Jcon 1500 High flow body in my cart, should include a spoiler too so I'll finally have a spoiler for it because for the longest time, I never ran one on it as it would always get beat up in bashing. Will be painting it in the classic Bomb Pop colors (not sponsored or affiliated with Bomb Pop but, if they see this, hit me up guys )

So yea that's all my plans for right now. Had thoughts on Mid Motoring it but the things that are holding me back on converting is, 1) all the people I see, use shorty style batteries, I want to retain and keep using regular style stick packs. 2) lots of Dremel work. Plus drilling new holes in the chassis, and counter sinking them in so it's flat. Tech won't like if the bottom isn't flat bc "it will damage the carpet"

What do you all think?

Now for the esc, I do have some worries about it, mostly the BEC, not because it's bad but it's just outdated, meaning low voltage, it is 5.75v/3a. Amps are fine, voltage is ehh. I run 7.4v on the truck rn. I wonder if it will be enough for the servo to be fast enough and have that response so I can have that fast response in the corners. As trucks are wide and have wide tires. Id imagine it would be just fine but it was just something that popped in my head.
Should handle 13.5 absolutely no issues, bc years ago it was ran on a 4.5t/5000kv 550/3670 2 pole motor.

Edits:
Other things I plan to do right on the spot is do upside down rear shocks bc it is doable in the rear, but not in the front due to the inboard arm mount design. But flipping the shocks upside down I seen it a ton the past few years, lowers the CoG so it will help out somewhat. Also I have a spare set of Big Bore traxxas shocks so I plan on getting yet another rebuild kit, try to rebuild them clean and nicely and run those, and run thicker oil, bc its carpet, as I am still/now still running stock ultra shocks with standard 30wt which is thin for carpet, ideally need 35-45 depending how you like your car.

Another edit:
Doing the math, between the servo I have now (OmG 20kg brushed) and a 2075R traxxas, the traxxas although sluggish on the torque side, it will be faster at that low of a BEC voltage than the OmG which states .17sec at 7.4, it would be around .20 at 5.7 so. Traxxas says 0.17sec at 6v so not much of a difference at 5.7. Will plan to swap the servo after learning that. Or I can use my 9imod hv 40kg from the typhon for the winter being to get close to that .10sec mark, but the bec amp rating is what that servo is almost close to.

 

[DavidB1126]

Don't think i.mentioned the diff in last post but I have a spare regular 272 diff in the spare parts box somewhere. I plan to rebuild that with 1M diff oil so I can easily swap it into the truck while at the track if needed, during testntune. In the truck right now I run just regular red n tacky grease. Thicker than most ordinary greases but not that thick for carpet. It's a unsealed diff, so that's why I'm thinking towards 1M. Should be thick enough that it shouldn't leak out and should be almost to be locked up which from my knowledge, you'd want a more thicker oil diff for carpet rather than a thinner feeling one, right? If 1M is too thick I do have 500K I could try. But gotta remember the diff isn't sealed, might leak out. And if so, a mess to clean up. Could also try to put in a sealed diff to have that extra security, I'm pretty sure hot racing makes one, but like stated in my post above I only thought about this just to have a "fun" type class to pick up as 2/4wd are my competitive like classes. Mini B used to be my fun class but no one runs that anymore so.

Any advice for this season/project? Been quiet lately?

 

[Lukedavis]

Don't think i.mentioned the diff in last post but I have a spare regular 272 diff in the spare parts box somewhere. I plan to rebuild that with 1M diff oil so I can easily swap it into the truck while at the track if needed, during testntune. In the truck right now I run just regular red n tacky grease. Thicker than most ordinary greases but not that thick for carpet. It's a unsealed diff, so that's why I'm thinking towards 1M. Should be thick enough that it shouldn't leak out and should be almost to be locked up which from my knowledge, you'd want a more thicker oil diff for carpet rather than a thinner feeling one, right? If 1M is too thick I do have 500K I could try. But gotta remember the diff isn't sealed, might leak out. And if so, a mess to clean up. Could also try to put in a sealed diff to have that extra security, I'm pretty sure hot racing makes one, but like stated in my post above I only thought about this just to have a "fun" type class to pick up as 2/4wd are my competitive like classes. Mini B used to be my fun class but no one runs that anymore so.

Any advice for this season/project? Been quiet lately?

I've been out of rc for a while. I wanna get started back up soon. I haven't touched most my cars in almost a year

 

[Doom!]

I've been out of rc for a while. I wanna get started back up soon. I haven't touched most my cars in almost a year

Was that because of a restraining order?

 

[Lukedavis]

Was that because of a restraining order?

No, just have lots of stuff going on. I also don't have any money, and I am working on fixing my blazer.

 

[DavidB1126]

No, just have lots of stuff going on. I also don't have any money, and I am working on fixing my blazer.

Get the blazer all fixed up, maybe a few upgrades "while you're at it" and then after once that is done you can catch up with some RC stuff.

 

[Lukedavis]

Get the blazer all fixed up, maybe a few upgrades "while you're at it" and then after once that is done you can catch up with some RC stuff.

Currently installing a lift kit

 

[Lukedavis]

Sorry for the thread derailment

 

[Finesavageboy2]

I've been out of rc for a while. I wanna get started back up soon. I haven't touched most my cars in almost a year

Same. But only since June. Had a family matter, and I had to put them on the back burner. Just ran my modified slash and broke it. 1 down, 5 more to go!