Build Thread My Rustler 2wd build 2.0

[CertifiedMike]

I'd like to know if the diff ends up leaking.

I already think the grear diff is going to cause issues on the track. Time will tell but I'm guessing thicker oil or just full ball diff for me.
Super lube in it now is super snooth but not a ton resistance.

I dunno what else I can put in that would be better...

 

[DavidB1126]

Carpet and a ball diff won't work together well to be openly honest. Just from what I've seen before. It would probably slip a lot.

I mean oil like 500K or 1M is super thick, sooo... ?

I could create my own gasket and use a little bit of rtv.

 

[CertifiedMike]

The ball diff might be too jympy for the carpet... not sure. The old car has a ball diff and one way up front.
The new car has front one way too. I built it with the gear diff so I'll try it.
The ball diff could make tight turns jumpy on accel but I think it could help too.

Is a gasket the only thing making your diff unsealed? If so, I think I'd try making a gasket or use rtv too.
My diff leaks from the output shafts too.

 

[DavidB1126]

Uhhh what does traxxas call this thing...

Planetary that's what it is. So its that plus it doesn't have a gasket for the cover so...?

The ball diff might be too jympy for the carpet... not sure. The old car has a ball diff and one way up front.
The new car has front one way too. I built it with the gear diff so I'll try it.
The ball diff could make tight turns jumpy on accel but I think it could help too.

Is a gasket the only thing making your diff unsealed? If so, I think I'd try making a gasket or use rtv too.
My diff leaks from the output shafts too.

yea agreed. When we were racing Mini B's a couple people were testing with the Ball diff but it just slipped too much. Plus there's so much maintenance for a ball diff too.

I was thinking about picking up another 272R (sealed/spyder gear diff) from Jennys but its like what I have now is still working so why upgrade, plus I think that the 272R trans as a whole is alot heavier than the standard/regular 272 planetary trans. Which is one of the reasons my slash feels more rear end heavy then the rusty.

 

[CertifiedMike]

The diffs are not easy to get to on a Mid so I hope to dial it in fast!

You might not be as quick with a heavier diff to spin up too.
If your dif is working... maybe smart to leave it alone.

 

[DavidB1126]

True. I run mobil1 red synthetic grease. same as lucas oil red/tacky. its thicker compared to ordinary black silicone traxxas usually has in from the factory and probably white lithium too so... If it works it works. i just wanna try to get the truck decent to run and have a grip on. which bc its a stadium, its easier to drive than my slash bc its shorter wheelbase but wider so. Plus stadium is more bigger than short course at one of the tracks so. Yea.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I think Mobile1 is silicone too, right?
I have a bunch of red&tacky but its petrol based so I never wanted to use it.
The Superlube stays for now.
After some track time, all my bearings, gears... will wear in a bit, hopefully get even more smooth. Its crazy how huge the difference in bearings is! Steel to hybrid ceram bearings from avidrc was HUGE in this car!!!

If you haven't upgraded your bearings, that might be something to put on the xmas list this year.

Your long wheel base should give more stability at high speed straights.
Wider and shorter should give you quicker rotation and stability in turns.
2 different trucks for 2 different tracks.

Weird bc this Mid is SWB and the one I ran way back was LWB. I also widened the swb car.

Its got a big butt now!!!

Stadium truck seems like a newer, smaller, cooler version of SCT trucks to me. I remember watchng 1:1 race years ago and was blown away by how quick they were getting around a tight track.

 

[DavidB1126]

If you haven't upgraded your bearings, that might be something to put on the xmas list this year.

All fresh mostly. I used mix of kits,.mostly Winter Evening on Amazon and Fast Eddy sealed bearings. Rolls smooth and quite freely.

Id do ceramic if they weren't so expensive and if they didn't require much upkeep/cleaning. Ideally they're only meant for clean stuff like carpet and maybe glued dirt but that's about it. Just how I see it.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I got the single seal hybrid bearings to keep cost and maintenance low.
I never had them before and I'm totally impressed!!! Maybe they won't last as long, we'll see.

My car won't do the free spin forever bc of the belt tension on the diffs. Its still nuts tho! By far the smoothest Mid I've ever seen.

Still might get better once I run it too.

Littlemotor actually runs the same bearings in his cars too so should be ok outdoors on loose stuff too.

I want to try them in other cars that I will be running outside too. Hopefully they will roll as planned, not be too much maintenance like you said.

 

[DavidB1126]

Update!
Motor installed
Ole Reliable and the OG Hobbywing installed
XT60 on the esc, new wiring from SMC to the motor. and some zip tie wire management too
Solder job at the terminals at the esc isn't the best but it works. put heatshrink around A-C motor wires at the terminal
Spare cap pack from a old XR10 Pro.
With the lower BEC voltage of 5.75/3a the 9imod 40kg is still pretty fast so ill take it.
Decided that I'll keep the 3PV radio setup in here for now, and I can switch to my NB4 if I truly feel like I need too.
Carpet pins/wedge tires also on the car.
New body is coming soon.

Now my only worry is motor temp. Running my original 23/86 gearing. Its pretty standard/normal. Might have to gear down to like a 20T maybe but not sure. Gonna be testing it next weekend. My local track runs 8 minute mains so I'll run for 8 mins and check motor temp and gear down.
Trying to think how and where to put a motor fan on this thing.

 

[DavidB1126]

Oh yea
I have gained 89 grams of lightness

 

[RustyUs]

Update!
Motor installed
Ole Reliable and the OG Hobbywing installed
XT60 on the esc, new wiring from SMC to the motor. and some zip tie wire management too
Solder job at the terminals at the esc isn't the best but it works. put heatshrink around A-C motor wires at the terminal
Spare cap pack from a old XR10 Pro.
With the lower BEC voltage of 5.75/3a the 9imod 40kg is still pretty fast so ill take it.
Decided that I'll keep the 3PV radio setup in here for now, and I can switch to my NB4 if I truly feel like I need too.
Carpet pins/wedge tires also on the car.
New body is coming soon.

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Now my only worry is motor temp. Running my original 23/86 gearing. Its pretty standard/normal. Might have to gear down to like a 20T maybe but not sure. Gonna be testing it next weekend. My local track runs 8 minute mains so I'll run for 8 mins and check motor temp and gear down.
Trying to think how and where to put a motor fan on this thing.

What wheel offset are you using?

 

[DavidB1126]

View attachment 253452
What wheel offset are you using?

T4.2/T5M DE Speedline

 

[DavidB1126]

Rustler/race truck project: Dialed suspension wise. Didn't even have to experiment with my extra set of shocks or any different oil/preload settings. Although I feel like it lacks power, when getting on power so could be a wiring or speedo issue. Next time ill have one of my buddies drive it to see if they notice it, if not, It's just me going crazy. Lol. Went out with it for like 4 or so sessions as most of my day was with the 2 buggies. Rear tires started to come unglued so just packed that up for the day after.

Quoted is from my race blog thread from test n tune day last weekend.

But overall build update, new Jcon truck body! Finally looks like a proper truck. And finally getting away from the hideous RTR body. Going to do the OG Bomb Pop scheme on this one.

Considering on widening the front end to make it equal length like normal truck kits but not sure if the pros outweigh the cons of doing so. Right now even with regular 2.2 truck sized wheels/tires, when the suspension is fully compressed while turning right the tire does rub on the body. Can trim but don't wanna trim too much off if you get what I'm trying to do. Had the same issue with the RTR body but I never cared for the RTR body so... Lol.

 

[Lukedavis]

Quoted is from my race blog thread from test n tune day last weekend.

But overall build update, new Jcon truck body! Finally looks like a proper truck. And finally getting away from the hideous RTR body. Going to do the OG Bomb Pop scheme on this one.

View attachment 255095View attachment 255096View attachment 255097

Considering on widening the front end to make it equal length like normal truck kits but not sure if the pros outweigh the cons of doing so. Right now even with regular 2.2 truck sized wheels/tires, when the suspension is fully compressed while turning right the tire does rub on the body. Can trim but don't wanna trim too much off if you get what I'm trying to do. Had the same issue with the RTR body but I never cared for the RTR body so... Lol.

I say get the offset compensating arms, aka widening the front end. just my

 

[CertifiedMike]

I say get the offset compensating arms, aka widening the front end. just my

Is it still legal on a track if its wider?

Do they inspect your cars are the track @DavidB1126 ???

 

[DavidB1126]

Is it still legal on a track if its wider?

Yes

Do they inspect your cars are the track @DavidB1126 ???

Only for weight, motor, blinky esc, voltage and ride height/protection.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Yes

Only for weight, motor, blinky esc, voltage and ride height/protection.

I think they use a box at my local track. If your car doesn't fit, you can't race. Like a carry on bag on a plane I guess... damn you American Air!!!

 

[DavidB1126]

New Body
Could have used my brain and think clearly on where I was masking to make the silver part shorter to the end of the cab and orange from the cab all the way back... But ill take it.

Did a few practice laps at the clay track last month and all seems dialed

The screw heads for the shocks at the upper shock tower do rub on the body. I have put a few (alot) layers of electric/painters tape to help prevent paint rubbing off from the inside.