Build Thread My race buggy...is an SCT

[OnwardGuinevere]

Diff

Talk to me... whatca running the buggy on, and whatca got inside the gear diff?
View attachment 245091

I'm going to run it on a hobbywing xerun 6.5t. I bought the wrong size bore for the pinion and I need longer sensor cables between the motor and ESC.
I just ordered an 18t pinion for 3.2mm bore. Hopefully my searches were correct and thats all I need.

 

[DavidB1126]

3.175 (standard for 1/10) vs 3.2mm bore. send it. just use a longer grub/set screw if you need lol.

6.5T in a 2wd SCT is gonna be rowdy.

(snapshot from V10 G3 manual)

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

3.175 (standard for 1/10) vs 3.2mm bore. send it. just use a longer grub/set screw if you need lol.

View attachment 245098

6.5T in a 2wd SCT is gonna be rowdy.

(snapshot from V10 G3 manual)

Oh ya. It'll be fun to tame. Correct pinion on order now. It'll give me time to work on the cables and such. Hopefully next weekend will be assembly and a test run.
I gotta order that Leadfinger body...

 

[RustyUs]

Diff Fluid

I should have been more specific in my earlier questioning . What thickness of diff fluid are you using and what surface will you be running your RB10 on?

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Diff Fluid

I should have been more specific in my earlier questioning . What thickness of diff fluid are you using and what surface will you be running your RB10 on?

I follow now. I baselined with the manual, so inside the diff, it called for just grease. For the gear box I used my mobile 1 red grease. It'll be running on compact clay.

If I went wrong on the grease, open to suggestions

 

[9x19]

I follow now. I baselined with the manual, so inside the diff, it called for just grease. For the gear box I used my mobile 1 red grease. It'll be running on compact clay.

If I went wrong on the grease, open to suggestions

Yeah, the RB10, DB10 and Trophy Rat manuals show grease in the diff (I used Red & Tacky in mine), meanwhile the DR10 and LT10 (which use the same diff as the other three) show 500k fluid.

 

[RustyUs]

I follow now. I baselined with the manual, so inside the diff, it called for just grease. For the gear box I used my mobile 1 red grease. It'll be running on compact clay.

If I went wrong on the grease, open to suggestions

If loose clay, like infield baseball diamond stuff, I think grease will be fine. I switched back and forth between grease and 5k diff fluid in my stadium truck's gear diff and couldn't really tell a huge difference. Then again, I run on a rough and bumpy med~loose environment.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

If loose clay, like infield baseball diamond stuff, I think grease will be fine. I switched back and forth between grease and 5k diff fluid in my stadium truck's gear diff and couldn't really tell a huge difference. Then again, I run on a rough and bumpy med~loose environment.

This is the track. It's pretty hard packed and watered down regularly (at least in the summer).

I'll roll with the grease for now and if I break something...well, I will have finally broke something racing again and I'm okay with that

I haven't driven on a track since highschool.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Well, another snag...i really wanted a Leadfinger retro body and I should have gone with my instincts and talked to them before ordering; but of course I didn't. I bought the body I wanted and to no surprise, it does not fit. It's too narrow. I've emailed Leadfinger to see about a return or exchange.

I think finding a body for this conversion may prove a little more difficult than I thought. I started looking more diligently at Leadfinger's associated bodies... potentially B7 Body will fit, but not totally certain.

The chassis at the widest is 6" (15.2cm) and the length (pin to pin) is approximately 9" (22.9cm).

If anyone has any thoughts on a buggy body that may fit, I am open to suggestions!

My other thought is to look to Team Bluegroove and see if they have anything.

 

[9x19]

Maybe some ideas here:

Thread 'Body options for the Associated RB10 and other thoughts'

Oct 14, 2023

It just dawned on me what a sleeper of a car the Team Associated RB10 really is. Functionally, i’s in the same category as the popular retro buggies from Kyosho and G-Force: the Dirt Master and Genova. TA just put a hideous cab forward body on it and fooled us all.

Releasing it as a kit with a B4 body would be basically a parts bin affair for the brand.

Or would it?

I’ve understood the B4 was the last SAE buggy from TA and the RB10 (and Pro2, Trophy Rat, SR10, DR10…) have more in common with the B5, which used metric hardware. The B5 had a narrow chassis for the square lipo packs of...

• Lumikko
• Replies: 8
• Forum: Buggy and Truggy

• 

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Maybe some ideas here:

Thread 'Body options for the Associated RB10 and other thoughts'

Oct 14, 2023

It just dawned on me what a sleeper of a car the Team Associated RB10 really is. Functionally, i’s in the same category as the popular retro buggies from Kyosho and G-Force: the Dirt Master and Genova. TA just put a hideous cab forward body on it and fooled us all.

Releasing it as a kit with a B4 body would be basically a parts bin affair for the brand.

Or would it?

I’ve understood the B4 was the last SAE buggy from TA and the RB10 (and Pro2, Trophy Rat, SR10, DR10…) have more in common with the B5, which used metric hardware. The B5 had a narrow chassis for the square lipo packs of...

• Lumikko
• Replies: 8
• Forum: Buggy and Truggy

• 

Awesome! Thanks! I'm looking at what JConcepts has too. Probably email them my chassis specs, so I'm not guessing again

 

[Lumikko]

I think finding a body for this conversion may prove a little more difficult than I thought. I started looking more diligently at Leadfinger's associated bodies... potentially B7 Body will fit, but not totally certain.

The chassis at the widest is 6" (15.2cm) and the length (pin to pin) is approximately 9" (22.9cm).

If anyone has any thoughts on a buggy body that may gift, I am open to suggestions!

None of the bodies for the B5 series or later will fit, the chassis widths went down after the B4 series because of the change to LiPo batteries. Don’t waste your time with those.

The closest fit will be a Tamiya Sand Viper or anything made for the B4.

The Sand Viper is based on the TRF 201 which was basically a copy of the B4 with metric fasteners, bearings and axles… like an RB10 before the RB10. So it makes sense that there’s a degree of compatibility.

Note that the SR10 chassis we have is +8 mm in length compared to the B4 so the fit of these bodies is not perfect, but close.

Old style bodies for the original gold pan RC10 (Turbo Mirage, Viper, Protector…) have the appropriate width and people have used them, but there will be gaps because the shape is not at all the same.

B2 and B3 bodies look good but the chassis shape is different. I made an overlay comparing them to the B4 and SR10 chassis’, and I doubt the fit.

The next body I’ll be buying is the Sand Viper. It fits and has the best looks in my opinion, I won’t bother with anything else anymore, unless AE releases a specific body for the RB10 with a classic rear-cab design.

With the boom of retro and rerelease buggies going strong and AE milking the RC10 name, I can only wonder why they haven’t released the RB10 as a kit with an oldschool body. It would be a hit for sure.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

None of the bodies for the B5 series or later will fit, the chassis widths went down after the B4 series because of the change to LiPo batteries. Don’t waste your time with those.

The closest fit will be a Tamiya Sand Viper or anything made for the B4.

The Sand Viper is based on the TRF 201 which was basically a copy of the B4 with metric fasteners, bearings and axles… like an RB10 before the RB10. So it makes sense that there’s a degree of compatibility.

Note that the SR10 chassis we have is +8 mm in length compared to the B4 so the fit of these bodies is not perfect, but close.

Old style bodies for the original gold pan RC10 (Turbo Mirage, Viper, Protector…) have the appropriate width and people have used them, but there will be gaps because the shape is not at all the same.

B2 and B3 bodies look good but the chassis shape is different. I made an overlay comparing them to the B4 and SR10 chassis’, and I doubt the fit.

The next body I’ll be buying is the Sand Viper. It fits and has the best looks in my opinion, I won’t bother with anything else anymore, unless AE releases a specific body for the RB10 with a classic rear-cab design.

With the boom of retro and rerelease buggies going strong and AE milking the RC10 name, I can only wonder why they haven’t released the RB10 as a kit with an oldschool body. It would be a hit for sure.

Super helpful, thank you! I knew a body would be tricky, but didn't realize the full scope until I got this far (of course).

Last night, I was thinking of even just getting an RB10 or B4 chassis and putting my suspension arms on it, still wondering if that'll work.

Finding a short buggy body for this chassis/wheelbase is probably unlikely. Unless I really hack it up.

I just wanted a rear cab style body too, like you mentioned.

 

[9x19]

I can't say on the B4 chassis, but the RB10 chassis will definitely work with your current front/rear suspension and transmission.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

I can't say on the B4 chassis, but the RB10 chassis will definitely work with your current front/rear suspension and transmission.

Yea, looked more closely, I'd run into issues on the B4 chassis for sure. RB10 would be fine, then of course my race buggy....would not be an SCT anymore .

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Today was soldering day. Changed battery plugs and soldered the motor and ESC. Tomorrow, the plan is to get the receiver in, paired, and attempt to start this thing.

I'll say a prayer to the RC gods that rig runs on the first try

 

[Lumikko]

Last night, I was thinking of even just getting an RB10 or B4 chassis and putting my suspension arms on it, still wondering if that'll work.

You already have the RB10 chassis. It’s labeled as the SR10 chassis as a spare part and it’s the same one as on these ”SW” short course trucks.

The other available chassis is the really long one you see on the full-size Pro2 SC10s, DR10, and Trophy Rat.

The B4 chassis is very unlikely to fit as it had SAE hardware and a different design front and back. It will bring more complications than solutions.

In any case, the B4 body or Tamiya Sand Viper body will fit the chassis you have now.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

You already have the RB10 chassis. It’s labeled as the SR10 chassis as a spare part and it’s the same one as on these ”SW” short course trucks.

The other available chassis is the really long one you see on the full-size Pro2 SC10s, DR10, and Trophy Rat.

The B4 chassis is very unlikely to fit as it had SAE hardware and a different design front and back. It will bring more complications than solutions.

In any case, the B4 body or Tamiya Sand Viper body will fit the chassis you have now.

Yep! I realized after posting the RB10 is the same chassis

Once I have it up and running I'll find a body for it

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Went with my Fkysky GT3b that I've had lying around; I figured I may as well use it. I may switch it to the GT5, not sure yet on that. I don't really need all the extra channels for this rig.

The motor and ESC fired up with no issues. The servo was being finicky and not wanting to work, but it came it life, finally.

I ran it for a few minutes and this thing is very, very fast! Definitely will need some programming. I need to recalibrate the tx with the ESC as reverse is currently forward .

I haven't glued these tires yet too, so that is still on the To Do list

Oh ya...and it needs a body...

 

[TeknoJ]

Went with my Fkysky GT3b that I've had lying around; I figured I may as well use it. I may switch it to the GT5, not sure yet on that. I don't really need all the extra channels for this rig.

The motor and ESC fired up with no issues. The servo was being finicky and not wanting to work, but it came it life, finally.

I ran it for a few minutes and this thing is very, very fast! Definitely will need some programming. I need to recalibrate the tx with the ESC as reverse is currently forward .

I haven't glued these tires yet too, so that is still on the To Do list

Oh ya...and it needs a body...

View attachment 246195

Don’t forget to solder on an xt connector, get rid of the T plug ( I hate em)